smullen
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Posts posted by smullen
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Nice pics thanks for sharing!!!! Looks like someone does some nice work!!!!
In a few of the pics in this post I see a bunch of wiring accessories that look like they would be useful to me...
I can't really make out the Brand... They all seem to have what looks like a Memphis logo, so I went to http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/products/accessories/ and a few other pages on that site and did not see any accessoriess like whats pictured...
I'm looking for the battery terminals that facilitate multiple 0/1 ga cables, Rings an and the other connecters pictured as well...
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We're goin cause one of my buds just picked up a Springfield XD-M 40 (he got the Black lower, Silver Slide) and my other bud just picked up a AR-15 and they want to try'em out...
I guess I'm gonna take my XD-M 40, Glock 21 and one of my ARs...
Holy Crap, I hate shooting when its cold out.... Guns did well, but my fingers and ears did not...
Here are a few of the toys we took with us...
Click Photo for Larger View
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Fricken Sweet Work man!!!!
I'd like to see how you did the battery too...
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I have taken into account that all the shots taken were in a movie but i was watching the making of the movie Shooter with Mark Wahlberg and the Marine that trained him was using a Model 700 .308 and taking shots out at 1100 yards.
i guess waht i want to know is it truly possible to shoot and kill a person with a .308 or any other high powered rifle at 1100 yards or was that all Hollywood Phenomenon with smoke and mirrors???
The Remington 700 in .308 is more than capable of shots like that...
I've got the 700 SPSV with a pretty decent Nightforce scope on it and last time I was at the range (on the 100 yard line) one of the old guys told me he used to be a spotter and asked what I was shooting... After I told him what it was, I let him take a look at it and fire a few rounds... I said what do you think? Decent gun for 100 yard range????
He said, boy, Shooting that at 100-200 yards is like taking a Nascar Car to a Go cart track and asking the kids if they want to race...
The only improvment I could think of is if it was a Auto and shot like that vs a Bolt action...
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Me workin in a Gun Shop, would be like Pookie the Crack head workin in a Crack Shop... Not a good idea... I doubt I'd ever bring home enough to pay my house payment... But the Gun Vault would be swelling...
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Glock 19c and the Ruger SR9.
Myself I'm a Glock man, so I'd go for that... I've owned and or shot every model except for the 18 I think it is(the one with selct fire/Fullauto)...
I would say see if you have a local shop that yu can at least hold each of them and rack the slide a few times, see how they feel in your hand... Even better if you could rent them and put a few boxes of shells through each... See which one suits you best...
Also, you might want to look at the Springfield XD-Ms... I really like them... I recently bought one on an impulse as I was out looking for a Glock in .40, but the three shops I went to did not have and Glocks in Stock in.40, so after looking at everything they had, I settled for the XD-M 40.... After shooting Glocks for 15+ years, I was worried that I would not be very good with something else... Not true, picked it up and took to it right away... I was impressed with how good I did with it 1st time... I sill plan on picking up a Glock in .40 (can never have enough) but I'm not sorry I bought the XD-M at all....
One or more of the above posters said their Glock jammed on them a few times?
Not sure what thats about as I shoot mine atleast 2-3 times a month and each time out I usually put about 300-400 rounds through it...
In 15+ years, I can recall it stove piping on me once and I think that was due to crappy weak ammo and not cleaning/oiling it... I know I should have cleaned it more, but in the past I have went 6-8 mnths with heavy usage and no cleaning... Latley I've been on it better, but even with my poor habits and neglect, its not given me any reason to doubt it...
As I said above, I plan on picking up another Glock here in the near future... Its one of the only pistols on a short list that I would trust my life too.. (list would be Glock, Springfiled Arms and H&K)...
But again, its all about what fits you... Go palm a few and try to get a few boxes of rounds through'em before you make a descision...
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We're goin cause one of my buds just picked up a Springfield XD-M 40 (he got the Black lower, Silver Slide) and my other bud just picked up a AR-15 and they want to try'em out...
I guess I'm gonna take my XD-M 40, Glock 21 and one of my ARs...
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Posted in a few places trying to see what everyone thinks.... (cool, this form has a place for Alarm Questions!!!)
Anyway, So I got a new (to me) Daily Driver... Its a 2005 Chevy Trail Blazer... Needs an Alarm...
Cliff Notes:
Before I haul off and put a few K into an audio system, I kinda want to get a really good Alarm...
What Systems are the Best and Why???
What Systems are are POS and Why???
I'm trying to do alot of reading and researching on this to make sure I make a good descision..
My concerns are the Alarm being a POS and the install being a POS...
The reason, my last two Alarms were DEI - Viper systems...
Long Story if you wanna Read the whole Novel:
The 1st (a low end unit, prolly a dealer add on) came on my 1996 GMC Sonoma, Ex Cab, when I bought it... It fried or something and left me stranded in a lot... After checking every fuse and connection I could find and making a few phone calls, I finally, just unplugged the big wiring harness that goes in each side of the brain and it started and drove fine no problems, cept no more crappy alarm...
Second was a higher end Viper on my 2000 Blazer thats my play around vehicle mostly used for crusing and car shows...
I can't remember the model, but it was the one that has the two way remotes that have the LCD of a truck and shows it running (via autostart), shows shock senser, Glass Break Senser, what Zone was tripped, etc...
I had about every option too... Three back up sirens each with Backup Batts, a hidden back up bat for the brain, Interior Pain Generator (damn that thing was LOUD) and anything else they had to add on at the time...
This thing was problems from the start, The batteries in the remote only lasted a week or so, not long after I had it I discovered that everytime I used the Autostart, it caused problems with the transmission and shifting out of 1st, till I let it sit for awhile, and turned it off and on a few times it would straighen up... The I had problems with the lights and locks... It goes on and on.....
I tried to take it back to the plae that did it, but it had been like 3 months and while I was in the process of fighting with them, they up and closed their doors... Outta Business...
So, I'm a bit shy on spending good money on a alarm and having it give me a ton of headache...
There are so many wires and the newwer vehicles are so F'in complicated.... Gives me pimples...
Cause when you have problems, What do you do? The Car Dealer will Blame it on the Alarm Dealer while But Raping you and not fixing it, the Alarm Dealer will just Blame it on the Car Dealer while you are just ass out stuck...
OK, Enough of my ranting...
Back to Business...
What Systems are the Best and Why???
What Systems are are POS and Why???
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ok so here is what i have up-to-date.
new mods include (but not limited to):
a new sub box (crx style, hopefully have that done before next semester)
maybe a new HU, or a good eq like a RF 3sixty.2 ....
Equipment:
Pioneer 6900ub
Custom HU display
Sirius Sportser 4 (?)
Pac Bass Control Knob
MMATS d2100.1 (~1500 wrms)
Sundown 100.4c Bridged
Hertz HSK 165 (no rear stage)
KnuKonceptz 1/0 (and some other 4 gauge)
Big 3 in 4 gauge
2x Treo SSi (12.44)
box is 1.8 cubes each at 28 hertz.
kenitic hc600 (no pic, behind some panneling)
Nice clean instal in a clean ride!!!
What year TrailBlazer is that? or it it a T.B.???
How do you like those Hertz Components???
One of my friends has a set of Hertz years ago, those things had the loudest tweeters I ever heard in my life!!! You could seriously hear the Highhats and symbols on the highway...
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Sweet Wood working skills and I don't think I have ever seen 6" areo ports... Holy Crap!!!!
Where you putting your amps, Batt(s) and such???
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Ground is every much just as important as the Positive...
You have to have a complete loop to make a circuit...
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I would not run ground wires from the front all the way to the back with the positives... I'd just run the positives...
I don't think I have seen anyone else do this either... (I know there is always a one off, of this one guy yadada yada yada)...
After the big 3 Upfront (making sure to include the grounds upfront, not just the Positive), I would run from your rear Ground/Negative busbar that you mentioned to the frame of the vehicle in the back...
But thats just me...
Whats everyone else think? How do you do it?
Any pics of said Bussbars? Idig looking at pics of peoples wiring...
Also, why 4 runs of power and 2 runs of ground? They are both equally important, the current has to make a complete loop....
I like the flexible conduit idea better than the PVC idea... When I get to that stage, I'll need to do something like one of these choice too...
Lastly, I'd buy several Gromets for passing though the body pannels from outside/in too... You can get them for like 5-6 bucks each I think...
My question is, eh, N/M I don't want to hijack your thread, I'll start a new one....
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I hate to ask, but whats a MLA Module???
As someone else asked, Pics???
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Never Fails!!!
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
sucks, seems to wor that way for me too...
When I'm saving for something, everytime I get within 10% something happens...
Either a decent size house repair,
One of my Trucks breaks down and needs repair
The wifes car breaks down
Daughter needs somethig for school
Daughter gets sick
or some other unexpected, un budgeted expense pops up...
I was just about to buy a new Pioneer headunit, Ipod cable/module and HD Tunner and one or more of the Stepper motors in my dash cluster went out on my 2005 Trail Blazer...
Dealer part, that involves calibration and setting the new odometer to the exact milage before the gauges were removed = a bit over 600 bucks...
3 weeks later, old ladies car starts acting up, needs an ignition module, front and rear brakes, (never done @ 110K miles) a serpintine belt and a tie rod end or some other goofy front end part... Does seem to run alot better and drive better with the front end fixed...
On the plumbing, was this a pipe for an outside water faucet or indoor stuff??? Unless something not done right I can't see the indoor faucets bust, if you all got the heat on..
Same with the flushing of the toilets...