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HaMSaMMiCH

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Posts posted by HaMSaMMiCH

  1. what amp for my components

    in Amplifiers

    Posted

    If money is an issue I'd go with the 4004, but the 8004 is definately the better choice. You can even use the amp's onboard crossover to run the comps actively if you wanted to. I'd actually reccomend that, but you have to be careful cause you'll lose your tweeter protection that way.

    x2

    If anything, you can run them like normal, and have some extra headroom. More headroom=More SQ

  3. some one wanna lend me a hand?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted · Edited by HaMSaMMiCH

    Why would you tune a box to 56hz you burping that box?

    x156747373

    You are gonna have better luck burping a 60hz sine wave. Music is probably just going to hurt your subs. Wait till you play something that gets down between 35-45hz and your subs start bottoming out.

    Read THIS and Maybe do a little looking on google about Tuning frequencies and how to use them. As soon as you start playing anything under 45hz, you may as well be playing those subs FREE AIR(VERY BAD)

  13. Changing your idle RPM ?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    well, the only reason i asked is because my car idles sometimes at 800-900 RPMs, sometimes (after it has been running for a while) 300-400 RPMs, and sometimes after ive been driving for 10 minutes or so it will idle at either zero or 100 RPMs. I dont really know what the cause of it is and I was wondering what would happen if i changed the idle RPM

    It's probably not really idling that low. It sounds like your Tach is fucked up. Zero RPM is OFF, and I don't know of any motor that idles at 100 RPM. Most big V8's that idle WAY lower than imports only get down to 500. V6's and 4cyl are typically between 600-900

    and ALOT of cars have what is called "high idle" right after start to help the car warm up and get better compression, If it really is idling that high when you start it, as it sounds like your tach isn't giving you any sort of realistic idea of where it is idling....

  18. One Sub Not Moving As Much?

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    It's has a little bit of a signal because if I put presure on it with my finger I can feel it lol.

    Yes its a L port

    I'm gonna go try each channel alone.

    You will still be able to feel it moving if the right one is going because they are sharing airspace and the pressure will move the cone on the left one. Check your wires, and if everything is hooked up right, you are probably experiencing loading issues(right sub has an easier time moving creating pressure and making it harder for the left sub to move) I've never been a fan of multi sub single port enclosures for specifically that reason.......

  21. recommendations for inexpensive components

    in Mid's and highs

    Posted

    well what 4" components would you recommend...and I cant upgrade the speaker hole in the door because it its cut in metal

    Dremel tool>metal

    If you have a dremel, and a steady hand it takes MAYBE 15 minutes a door to cut a bigger hole. The main thing is to make sure you have clearance with the window down. Even if you are 1/2 inch short on clearance, you can buy/make a spacer.

  22. Tahoe System Rebuild 2009 is ALL BUT FINISHED and PLAYING!!!! UPGRADE to RF P2 8's 12/08/2009!

    in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!

    Posted

    the only thing that is new about my front end so far is the rainbow 4" are out of the A pillars, and the RF is in. Im still waiting on the rest of the puzzle to be delivered :)

    After seeing the price of the Rainbows (to replace a blown 4") and hearing the new RF's, i cant believe anyone would pay that much. I mean im looking at the Rainbow and im trying to figure out just what is better about it then any other decent speaker out there. Does it move different? not really.....does it sound better then the RF, no, not to me anyway. Same thing with the Focals. I dont have a ton of experience with them, i know people that run them, and to be honest, i dont get the hype with those either. I think if your trying for an SQ system, imaging, soundstage etc is probably more important then brand.....in fact its not probably its a fact. I heard the WORLD famous Jerry Soo-hoo's older Toyota SQ car - no joke, it has a set Sony mids/highs up front and that is IT (besides a 10 or something in the trunk) and it sounded amazing.

    So anyway i know you dont need a lecture and im not tryin to give you one im just saying i think people dwell on name brand mids and highs more then they should....not saying get SHIT mids and highs, but i think any REPUTABLE brand could give a high priced brand a run for their money, especially if both sets are properly tuned (and placed of course)

    x10

  25. Inline Power Fuses

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted · Edited by HaMSaMMiCH

    However much your amps are fused for, maybe more

    i.e. You have a MRD-M605 which is fused for 70A(2x35A). Fuse the power wire for +70A. My rule of thumb is 60A for 8awg, 120 for 4awg, and 250-300 for 1/0awg.

    EDIT: Remember, the power wire fuse is to protect the wire and your car, not the amp. All that is necessary is that the fuse can handle the current drawn, but will still blow if there is a short.

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