HaMSaMMiCH
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Posts posted by HaMSaMMiCH
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The T-series also has a better heatsink as well. The RF Power series is no joke. I own the T1500-1BD, T1000-1BD T500-1BD and 2 T400-4 for my 4-Runner and 300zx. They are excellent amps. The T5002 are the size of a house.
^^^this^^^
While the Punch series amps are nice, if you are debating between a punch and a power, go POWER all day. Power are rated higher for 4ohm and 2ohm, and are MUCH further underrated at 1ohm.
also 2 T1000-1bd's will still have a smaller footprint then your T5002.
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The subs need to be in the box, not in the port. I can't tell from that pic, but it looks like you have 3 subs in the box and one in the port, and that won't work properly. Also, you generally want to keep all the subs on one face of the box not all the way around.
just my .02
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More like Greedy bastard. As much as I LOVE GM(I'm a chevy guy) they sure have made it hard to install aftermarket car audio over the past 9 years...
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'02 was when they started having the chime integrated into the actual radio. Many of the newer ones actually have the turn signal click and everything come through the speakers. You can tell for sure if you really need it by opening the door and turning the lights on with the key out to start the chime. Put your head down in between the door and under dash. If the chime is coming from the door its necessary, from if under the dash as long as you don't have BOSE/OnStar you can wire it up with a relay, but probably won't have RAP(retained accessory power i.e. radio stays on until you open the door).
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Holy shit dude, I am so sorry to hear about your loss. I'm sure you and your family will get through this terrible time, just hang in there. You will be in my prayers.
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na big dawg it aint nothing like that.. he try to make sombody sound stupid n shit i mean lol i got fuses on my wire. at first it was like an discussion then here he comes talkin like he knows everything.. i just dont like them type of kno it all people.
That's straight, but to me reading it, it kinda sounded like you didn't want to use fuses. Just misunderstood where you were coming from I guess. As long as you have a fuse within 18 inches of each battery on the 1/0 between them its all good.
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Actually, you have to have it on basically all new GM vehicles. Even without OnStar/BOSE there are several vehicle functions that run through the radio such as the door chimes(which act as a secondary warning system if your air bags fail) and without the module you loose said functions. As you probably know, It is against the law to alter a vehicle's airbag system in most states. If you don't care about legal issues you still need to run a relay and find switched power because they almost all have DATA turn on.
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hold up i never said anything about not using gromment??
man i shit 5 bills so dont even try to say sombody bein cheap.
i dont know a installer that would run a wire where it MIGHT get burnt or MIGHT get cut i guess thats the reason u USED to work in a shop.....
Wow dude, no need to be a dick about it. Marlo and I have been trying to tell you that it is a SAFETY PRECAUTION. You can do everything perfect in your install, but accidents can still happen. No Fuses on 1/0 wire is a FIRE HAZARD. Your wire may not melt from being ran the wrong way, or get split from not being through a grommet, but if it should get cut somehow and short out your shit will burn down. Hey, Its your car, if you want to risk it to save a few bucks by all means go ahead because you obviously aren't listening.
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You obviously aren't really understanding it, you don't absolutely need the fuses but they are a safety precaution for you equipment, vehicle and yourself. It's like saying u really don't need airbags or wearing a seatbelt if u don't get into accidents.
x985954948737
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okay......
but why would u run it threw somthing sharp or somthing that hot that can actually melt o ga. wire i mean thats some thick ass rubber...If your 0 gauge has really thick shielding its probably not real 0 gauge. Many cheap/pawn shop type wire uses foreign standards and hide the fact that they don't have a thick enough core by using a thick shielding to make it look the same size. Any number of things could cause a short in a wire in your car. Think of it this way. If your car costs $10,000 and you have $2,000 in stereo equipment you could wind up spending $20 for fuses at each battery, or $12,000 replacing everything when your car burns down. You would think that no one would run their wire through metal without a grommet, or past something hot in the engine compartment, but a majority of DIYers have no idea what they are doing. Even if you do run the wire properly, why would you want to risk your whole car to save money on a couple fuses? There is a reason EVERY amplifier manual tells you to make sure there is a fuse within 18 inches of every battery.
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batt 1---Fuse-------------short----------------------batt 2
.......blows^.................................Makes a fire^....
batt1---Fuse----------------short--------------Fuse---batt 2
.......blows^...........................................blows^...
---------------------Safer^^^
but y would it blow??
short will make it blow
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dude you need to not be cheap go buy the harness you need its like 15 dollars. wire the other one back up than wire the new harness to the radio and plug up. you got some wire somewhere mixed up in your wires.
Every time I have seen someone hack off their factory harness (at least once a week while I was at Best Buy) they would cut so close to the harness you could never hook it back up. You can get a reverse harness and hook it up, but they are color coded with the standard aftermarket radio colors, so if you wired the HU wrong, you will probably wire the reverse harness wrong. Plus a reverse harness costs as much as a normal harness so you are now paying $40 instead of $20.... Just use the wiring list off the12volt ^i linked it above^ and make sure your connections are good... Check everything with a meter first. if that doesn't work and everything metered properly then your HU is broken.
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Something is wired wrong. Go to the12volt.com and look up the wire colors for your vehicle and double check against how you have it wired.
Linkey! 91-93 C/K pickup -
I was about to ask that, is there any difference to the ear? Because I may just run all 4 gauage
No, its probably not going to make a difference for that one amp. However, if you were prepared to run 1/0 already, you might as well spend the extra couple dollars for a distro block and a cap install kit (just small runs of 4awg) so you can upgrade down the road and not have to add a run of 4awg or change up to 1/0.
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Locally or online? Locally you can probably go to a best buy and get a Rockford distribution block that accepts 1/0 and puts out 4 gauge and a 4 gauge capacitor install kit that has just a few feet of 4awg in it. Online... Rockford Fosgate Distribution Block.... you can of course use any brand that has 1/0awg inputs and 4awg outputs, but I like Rockford. I wouldn't recommend a normal reducer because you wont be able to upgrade as easily later on.
RFD4 has (1) 1/0awg input(with 4 gauge reducer) and (3) 4awg(with 8 gauge reducer) so you can run 2 aq 1200's and a small 4 channel or whatever down the line.
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Gahh, was scared of that
Why? the shorter the run, the smaller gauge wire is needed. If you have 1/0 going back to a distro block and a 1ft piece of 4awg to the amp you aren't going to loose any noticeable amount of current.
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Someone likes playing with dolls o_0!!!!
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i had to go to a hearing once an that was to try an keep my license an i shouldve brought a lawyer caus that lady spoke a million miles an hour an i had no idea wat she was sayin and it was scary as fuck plus on top of that i was bein recorded so you dont wanna say anything that puts you in a deeper hole and dont try to lie those mofos know anything and everything and they will print it out an throw it in your face and wen she did that i was like fockkkk lol but thankfully she read her schedule wrong an thought my hearin was at 1 wen it was really at 11 so i sat there for 3 hours while she was at lunch an i think she jus felt sorry an afraid id report her caus she let me go with my license haha but i dont think ull get that lucky so best way to handle this is take someone that knows what there doin caus unless youve done this a few times before your gonna be in way over your head.
x10
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Without calculating for box rise and whatnot, yes. With the car running you should get 1200w
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Maximum Power Output (4ohm) 1200w
Rated Power Output (4ohm, 14,4V) 1200w
Rated Power Output (2ohm, 14,4V) 1339w
Rated Power Output (1ohm, 14,4V) N/A
if your car is running and you have a decent charging system you will get 1200 at 4ohm. 787 is at 12v which is lower then most car batteries rest without the car running.....
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Take some form of traffic school before you go to court, and at least see a lawyer for a consultation. The most important thing is that you know your rights going in to it.
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Be careful running 600 to those kenwoods.. they are only rated for 400....
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In my edit ^^^up there^^^ I posted something off crutchfield saying it has to be FAT16 or FAT32. You probably just have to reformat.
but why would u run it threw somthing sharp or somthing that hot that can actually melt o ga. wire i mean thats some thick ass rubber...
Linkey! 
Which Setup would you rather see?
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^this