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HaMSaMMiCH

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Posts posted by HaMSaMMiCH

  1. I would try a reformat first.... After that I'm not 100%

    I have seen some decks that have no problems with HDD, and some that when you get over 30 some gigs they freak out......

    EDIT: The HDD needs to be formatted to FAT16 or FAT32

    from crutchfield:

    USB Port: The Kenwood KDC-X692 features a rear panel 2.0 USB type-A port that is attached to the headunit's chassis by a 39" pigtail. The USB port enables connection and control of a portable USB mass-storage class device. The USB port is compatible with all USB mass storage class devices that support the FAT16 or FAT32 file system. Your USB device should only have a maximum of 8 directory levels, 255 folders, and 255 files per folder with a maximum of 65,025 files and folders. When your USB device is connected to this unit, it can be charged up provided that the KDC-X692 is powered on. The KDC-X692 comes supplied with a mounting bracket for the unit's USB port so you permanently mount it in your vehicle. The unit also comes supplied with a USB cap to place over the USB when not in use.

    Note: You cannot connect a USB device via a USB hub or Multi-Card Reader to this unit.

  2. You can always do it the ghetto way..... 2 short runs of speaker wire to the rear speakers, then 2 more short runs to the factory rear speaker wire, and connect the factory rear wires to the factory front wires..... Use what you all ready have in the car lol.... :rofl: JK JK JK..... It's not the best way to hook up a 4ch but I've seen people do it in a pinch......

    let me know how it sounds when you get your supplies!

  3. RF Definitely has Power. ESPECIALLY the POWER series. They always make MORE then rated power, and have phenomenal cs. The only downfall with Rockford is when you buy authorized they tend to be a bit pricey, but you do get what you pay for. Also if you do buy unauthorized or are out of warranty, I understand that they have a flat rate to fix amps, so if you buy a $1300 T1500-1 cheap, you can still have it fixed by Rockford for a small (compared to the amp) fee.

    Also, as far as the difference in performance between a T10001 and the MD2D. The T10001 is RATED for 1000wRMS, and will put out ~1500wRMS. The MD2D is RATED 1500wRMS, so if it puts out over rated power of course it is going to outperform the T10001. If you have 2 T1's and all you need is 1000w to push them the T10001 is more than enough. A more fair comparison would be a MD2D against a T1500-1bd or an MD3D against a T20001bd.

    Personally I would go for the Rockford, because it is more than enough for what you have as well as everything else that is stated above. If power still is an issue I would look at the T1500-1bd and compare that with the MD2D as they are comparable amps, although in the end I would still probably pick Rockford.....

    As I said before though, I may be a bit biased......

  4. there are a lot of people that will not finish theirs on their side cause that shit hurt. Man up drink a little bit of yeager and you will be fine. as for the healing process depends on what you get and how deep the artist takes it. some go to deep and some not deep enuff... but my dumbass went to sleep with a tight shirt on and the ad oitment dried and stuck to the shirt.

    Fuckin OWWWW......

    I've been stuck sleeping on my left side because of the tat on my right leg just because I don't want to get glued to my sheets. :lol:

  5. wrongggggggggg

    i bought a spliter for it

    amp was set without bass knobs hooked up as well

    1st time ive run a bassknob with any of my amps so... kinda new to that part...

    did you buy a splitter specific for that bass knob, or a splitter just for cat5 cable?

    If it isn't a splitter specifically for the bass knob it sounds like the signal that goes through the knob is getting split in half and screwing everything up, or both amps are fighting each other to get to the bass knob or something.

    If the splitter is specific to that bass knob, and that bass knob is the right one for your amps, it sounds like something is broken.

    edit: if everything is correct and functioning, the amps need to be set with the bass knob included.

  6. got it fix... yes it was the 12v switched.. i check the wiring and it didn't read anything.. so i check all the fuses that were associated with the radio and found 1 was blown call "clock"

    lol.. thanks dudes !!!!!!!

    its not that great either :(

    A lot of newer cars and imports tend to like to have the radio fused 457 places, only 1 of which is labeled radio...... Glad you have the issue resolved. I've never been a huge fan of JVC, but hey, at least you have music.

  7. double check all the wires are going to the correct place, as well as connections. Solder is ideal, but if not use butt connectors. NEVER wire nuts or only electrical tape, they make bad connections and will shake apart. If you have access to a multimeter check that you are still getting power on the switched 12v+. if it shows the time with the display button and ejects discs it is getting constant power. Sounds like switched is missing....

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