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ImLow78

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Posts posted by ImLow78

  1. yea i had high hopes thats not a bad idea i was just hoping there was a way i could pop the seat out pop the new ones in without modifing the truck at all because when this truck gets paid off in a couple years i want to trade it in and get what i can for it so i dont want to acutally modify the truck, whatever i do i want to be able to put the origional seat back in when i am done with it

    With the way I posted you would not have to modify the truck any because it would all be able to be removed all together when its time to send it down the road. (the seats, sub enclosure and amp rack). Also that way you would not have to drill new holes in the floor of the truck to mount some after market seats. I know what you mean about modifying. I built my whole system to be able to be all unplugged and all the factory stuff plugged back in just for the same reason you mentioned.

    Shannon

  2. What if you would build a box and build some integrated seats into it? (one on the driver side and one on the passenger side.) This way you could build the box how you want and you get the same idea of captains seats in the back but they would be built in the the box construction. once you have done that you could then have a upholstery shop do you some nice seat backs and padded bottoms to match the factory seats and you would not spend as much as you would try'n to buy those expansive seats. Plus I would almost bet you could make it look better doing it that way. I.E flush mount amp rack under each seat in the leg section. (But that is what I would do.) Good luck on what ever you do man.

    Shannon

  3. Diablo makes some nice stuff but I'd look into the Bully Dog Triple Dog GT Gas Gauge Tuner. I have used Bully Dog products on diesels and I will tell you they make some good reliable power with great added fuel economy also whats great about the Triple Dog is you can download new stuff to it for free from the bully dog website when they are available. Hope this helps you out man. The Bully Dog programmer is what I'm looking at to put on our 04 Tahoe.

    Shannon

  4. Well guys here is a video of the Hoe. I had to make it pretty fast because I was out in the middle of BFE (Bumble Phuck Egypt) so I didn't want someone (County Cop) ridding up on me and giving me some drama. As you guys can see most of my equipment is nothing crazy like most of the people on this board. LoL So here you guys go!

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    Shannon

  5. Well guys, I've had a few days to play with this thing an must say that the DQXS is kicking my @SS. I thought that I would have the funds this week to get this thing on a RTA at one of our local stores but that didn't work out. So I downloaded TrueRTA (The free version) for now to try and get some of the settings on the EQ & cross over set. Now granted the free version on TrueRTA is only a 1 octave Analyzer so I know its not the best, But something is better then nothing.

    Could you guys give me a idea on where I should start setting my cross overs? Right now when I play pink noise the frequency response it fairly flat. (I know I'm not using the best RTA but you have to work with what you can afford for now.) LoL so any help you guys can give me on starting points would be great. I'd hate to screw something up not knowing where to start.

    Shannon

  6. Im buying a universal turbo kit (no instructions included) its for a BMW 325i im buying. Im a automotive technician i went to school so i know what im doing under the hood But this is my first turbo install. I have a general idea but for some things i need some help . Dose anybody how to run the oil lines and boost controller or if theirs eny instructional videos or turbo manuals out thiar? also the kit comes with an oil ketch tank and oil cooler. Agen i halve a general idea but i need some help dose enybody know how to do this ??? HELP! lol

    You will have to find a place in the block that can feed the turbo with oil pressure. Depending where on the 325i's motor has the oil pressure sending unit you might be able to put a Tee in line with the Sensor to feed the turbo with oil. Also you will need to drill and tap the oil pan so the turbo will drain the oil back to the pan. I'd also install the oil cooler where the the oil would come out of the block, then it goes through the cooler then to the turbo. The catch can tank needs to have the oil come out of the turbo to the catch can then the oil should go out of the catch can to the oil pan.

    Now for the boost controller. What kind is it?

    Shannon

  7. Well guys it lives! I finally got it up and running about an hour ago and still need to clean up some of the wires and work on the DQXS & Amp gains tomorrow before its off to the RTA to get the final tune. So here are some pictures (They ain't very good but it was at night) of all the pretty lights. LoL

    Once I got it fired up and the cross overs close to where they should be I threw in some Three 6 Mafia (Azz & Titties), (Half on a Sack) and a few other tracks and even though I thought the ports was tuned too low this thing sounds pretty good for some junk I had lay'n around for a few years collecting dust.

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    Please remember that The wire clutter that is in the last picture will be cleaned up tomorrow and all tucked away.

    One more thing, I'm having a Minor amount of alternator wine but you can only barely hear it when the volume is at 0. I know the grounding to a seat bolt is a No,No but that was the best place I had with out having to rip out the amp rack again and drill another 1 1/2" hole next to where I ran the power wire in the cab and even then with the power distribution block mounted where it is I don't think I would have room there. Right now its so minimal I almost don't even want to mess with it.

    There is supposed to be a ground loop circuit built into the DQXS but I'm going to have to read up on it some more tomorrow.

    Shannon

  8. Nice install buddy, where did you get the grommets from that you put in the wood for the wires to be ran through???

    Wire Grommets

    They start 3/4 the way down on that page. I think they are also on the pages after that one. Hope this helps you out. Those grommets really help make the install look cleaner once the vinyl was trimmed back.

    Shannon

  9. Not much progress today. I got most of the amps wired and the last RCA from the DQXS to the sub amp. On top of that little stuff I was able to get a friend to help get the box out of the basement and put in the truck. For once something I did turned out right! The box fit like a glove.

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    Here is a little buss bar that is able to handle 30amp so that should be big enough for this little amp.

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    Shannon

  10. Lovin' the amp rack!

    Thanks! I guess I'm just too picky about stuff. I thought the rack could have been covered a little bit better (The notches where the front of the seat frame comes up through the rack.). I hated having to paint them black and cut the vinyl around the notches but you can only do what your skill level allows. Also all of the guys on this page helped out with their system builds and their tutorials to show how to do allot of stuff!

    I also hope that the way I ran my RCA's and speaker wire I don't get the dreaded alternator wine!!!!!!!! LoL

    Shannon

  11. are does 15 or 18 ...........but looking good

    Some old JL 15w0's I had lay'n around in the basement. Pretty much all the equipment I've had for a long time and I was too lazy to install this stuff. well that all changed this weak since I've been unemployed since July of 08 and I just couldn't sit around the house anymore and I needed something to occupy my brain so I pulled my @ss off the couch and said this was the week for the long over due install.

    Shannon

  12. Here I ripped the dash out to move the speaker wires and RCA cables from the passenger side to the driver side.

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    Running the wire down the side of the dash to the driver side kick panel.

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    Here is one with the parts of the dash in the back seat. LoL

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    Here are the Speaker wires and RCA's ran to the back seat where the amp rack is going to be.

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    Here is where I picked to run the power wire (1/0) to the back seat. I found a spot (Got Lucky) that will be hidden pretty good. I didn't want to take the back seats out but guess what? I had to any ways. (CHIT!!!!) But it turned out good.

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    Here's what it will look like with the seat up.

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    In order to run the wire there I had to break out the big guns due to the spot being double backed with a brace and I could not get the jam nut on the back side of the power wire grommet, so I had to cut out some of the back of the brace.

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    Rear seats going back in.

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    Finished amp rack in and wiring what I can until I get the rest of the stuff to finish this project.

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    Shannon

  13. It was a busy day for me. I had to bite the bullet and run 1/0 to the back of this truck. Once I found the best place to bring this huge cable in the cab I had to move all my RCA's and Speaker wire (WOO HOO). While I was at it I wired up as much of the amp rack until I get the few odds and ends that are in the mail and on their way. Don't rip me to bad on my carpet and vinyl work (This was my first attempt with this and I was try'n to do it the way I thought would turn out the best.)

    So I'll post all the pictures of this build and give you a time line view.

    This was the first box with slot ports that I messed up and scraped!

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    Here is the new box with round ports. I separated the box into two enclosures that are right around 4cu. Ft. the ports are 4" round and 18.5" long ( I know they might be long but the good thing is if I have to shorten them I can get a cut-off wheel in the box to cut them down.) On WINids the port length calculator showed that port tunning at 30.73hz.

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    Here it is carpeted.

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    Next is the amp rack that will fit under the rear seat. I didn't get a picture of it after I vinyled it but here is pictures of it installed that shows it finished.

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    Shannon

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