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Posts posted by ArtemCRV
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When I was buying my car i didn't know i'm gonna modify it any way. Looked under the hood today and there's NO way to add another alt. Shit, even to replace the old one for another more powerful will take a week of work couse hes so deep under all shit...
That's not fair. Why me :mad:
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5!
LI here. stuck in Florida until the end of the year.don't worry we'll wait
Btw i'm about to order the same sub you have on your avatar...
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4 OF US
Go ahead people!!! Don't be shy! Get in! Maybe someday we'll create our "NY" team with meetings...
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I don't get it. People all over youtube (yes youtube) troll other videos. An example, some douchebag comes out of no where calling my shit weak. Better yet, here's what he said lol. "bro your system sucks mad dick..get better subs..kewoods ass." I'm sorry, it's not a competition system, and I don't have the money to blow on an expensive system. I already nearly broke my account with what I have. It's a good system for what I want. Gets the job done, its loud, and it's clean. I honestly could care less what people say about it, but it just gives me something to laugh at.
Do you guys catch shit like this on your vids?
And believe me, if I had the money, I'd blow it on a nice ass system.
Usually ppl who ain't have a shit to show off acting like that...))
So just ignore em
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sounds like helicopter
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Make sure to follow the instructions before watching:
1. Put your headphones on
2. Volume up to max.
3.
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http://www.optimabatteries.com/optima_prod...owtop/index.php
if you are running that much power, you would theoretically pull between 80 amps and 71 amps. (assuming 800watts/10volts and 1000watts/14volts)
you would probably see voltage drop with a stock 100amp alternator. your amplifier COULD be very efficient and pull less power, or your car could consume less power than i stated, or you could have an alternator that puts out more or less amps than 100.
there is a lot that will come into play when deciding if its time to upgrade. your best bet is to put the system in and install a voltage meter. while playing bass keep your eye on the meter and see how low you are dropping. if you are dropping below 12.8 volts or so, then you are no longer only using the alternator's power (you will begin pulling from the battery as well)
if you deem that your voltage dips too low, you blow fuses often, or you want a stronger electrical system; then go ahead an upgrade. it will do nothing but HELP your car and your system.
*edit*
i checked for you and found out that you will need the optima d51r yellowtop if you were to buy a battery from them. its the same battery i have in my civic. i also use the kinetik hc1400, which is the same size as the d51r. powermaster makes the d5100 series designed for our cars as well. all 3 are outstanding batteries and will all fit in our stock locations.
thank a lot! appreciate your help! you put it a understandable language so even newbie like me could understand! lol
i'll run 400-500w system 1st then upgrade it if it won't be enough... ))
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My specs would include a 130amp alternator with a kinetik hc1400 (60ah) and an optima yellowtop d51r (28ah)
I have 2 dc level 4 12" woofers with level 5 coils. They are run by a Sundown Audio SAE-1200D amplifier at 1 ohm.
all in all, my voltage drops significantly. im seeing about 1000-1400 watts out of my amplifier after voltage drop and impedance rise.
Its pretty loud, but i need another battery and a new alternator soon. its a little too powerful for my car.
to give you an idea, my alternator only produces 90 amps of power for my system (after removing the 40amps for my running car) and the amplifier is using between 83amps and 102 amps.
these are all theoretical numbers again, the only absolute way to know for sure is to get a dc clamp meter and measure the amperage produced.
well that's the info i was looking for everywhere...
so if i have 800-1000w stereo and a new (1yo car) i will need NOTHING to add?
PS can you give some link on info about yellow top? how to choose, install and run? thanks!
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the only way to get any number without trying it for yourself is:
take the output of your alternator (i looked and its around 100amps) and remove around 40amps of that power (because the car uses that while running in normal conditions)
whatever is left over (60 or so amps) is what you have to power your system with.
next you will need to figure out what your amplifier pulls (in current) to produce its rated power. my sundown SAE-1200 puts out around 1500watts on a good electrical. that means (if my car is at 14 volts) that it will be pulling around 107 amps of power. being that my car is a HONDA, i usually only see about 13.8 volts on my voltage meter because honda alternators usually charge at 13.8 rather than 14.4 like most others.
once you have figured out the total draw from your amplifier, subtract that number from the 60 amps i mentioned before. in your case (if all of my above info is correct on your car's alternator) if your amp pulls more than 60 amps, then you WILL need to get a high output alternator. i recommend upgrading the alt before you ever think about throwing in a second battery.
BUT getting a second battery means that your alternator wont work as hard to power the system. your voltage will not increase from a second battery. your alternator is the only thing that WILL CHANGE YOUR VOLTAGE. the same goes for the "big 3". you will not gain any voltage (theoretically) by doing the upgrade, but your power will flow more easily so you will notice that your battery charges more quickly.
should answer your question
*edit*
also, i should let you know that with my current system installed, im still dropping into the high 11's. i have an alternator putting out about 130amps (rated at 170pssh) two AGM batteries, and the big 3 done in 1/0. all 1/0 throughout and 8awg for speaker wire.
well it's a lot of very useful info and put well and understandable... have just one more question... can you give the spec. of your stereo so that i compare to what i'm gonna choose?
thanks a looot!!!!
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i very much doubt your alt will only be able to handle 400rms...im pushing 600 or so on my 14 year old car's 70 amp alternator and i have no voltage drop.
the only time your battery will power your amp along with your alt is when the alt is being used up 100%. then if you try to push it farther, the voltage will drop down past 12v (normal car alternator produces about 13.8 to 15v)
im running a 1600rms hifonics brutus amplifier on a stock electrical, but im not outputting all 1600w. im only outputting 600 because i chose to. if i did all 1600, 2 things would happen. 1 would be my alpine type r would blow, and 2, my voltage would drop to probably 11v causing my amp to go into protect.
btw do use a capacitor in your system?
what change these things make?
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i very much doubt your alt will only be able to handle 400rms...im pushing 600 or so on my 14 year old car's 70 amp alternator and i have no voltage drop.
the only time your battery will power your amp along with your alt is when the alt is being used up 100%. then if you try to push it farther, the voltage will drop down past 12v (normal car alternator produces about 13.8 to 15v)
im running a 1600rms hifonics brutus amplifier on a stock electrical, but im not outputting all 1600w. im only outputting 600 because i chose to. if i did all 1600, 2 things would happen. 1 would be my alpine type r would blow, and 2, my voltage would drop to probably 11v causing my amp to go into protect.
well now it makes a lot of sence... thanks!
now i got the idea... i just don't want to harm my car which is on warranty
thanks again!
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more power is better...
i understand that! i mean if i install let's say 500w amp but my alt will produce only 400w to use for the stereo, it means it will take an additional power from battery overheating it right? so i have to check the exact amount of power BEFORE installation... right?
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edit: what do you mean "i can't use manual for stock system". the big 3 lets more power from the electrical system flow around your car.
means i'll have more power so i can't look at manual to know the exact amount of power, i'll have to measure it myself...
so what you are saying is that a little overuse won't harm a car in anyway?
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yes it will.
so after "big 3" change i can't use manual for stock system so i'll have to measure it myself anyway right? so how to do that?
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how is approximate not an answer?
well approximate means i can lose or overuse let's say 100-150 watts wich makes a huge difference, right? if i loose it means i can use more power and if i overuse it means the system will get overheat and it's NOT good... right? so i need to know an exact numbers... right? correct me if i'm wrong i'm new to this
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use google if you want to know how big it is.
as for how much free power it has for audio-use,
Yeah i've already watched it. the guy gives an approximate numbers and approximate is not an answer we know that right? thanks anyway... i'll try to google...
anyway how to calculate/measure it myself?
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What kind of car. I'd put bets on it that you could Google the make, model, and year and find it online somewhere. I have no idea how to measure it though.
It's CR-V 2008.
BTW will the "big 3" really improve the electric system and give more power?
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So the question is simple but I still can't get it.
How do I calculate I need an additional alternator/battery for the system I'm gonna build or not?
I mean how do I know how much power from stock alt/bat my car uses and how much left for me to use.
Basically the problem is what is the max power i can get w/o installing 2nd alt. My car is on warranty so I don't wanna f*ck around the stock.
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8 mill legal. lol who knows how many undocumented there are.
that's right! more 2 000 000 of illegals... so it's gonna be 10 mil and only 2 here? not possible
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you act like there are 14 million people in your city or something............................lol
Well... not 14... but over 8 mil. for sure
btw you live only 1 and a half hour away so i think it also counts... ))
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queens ny here ...
Jeeeez... over 10000 members and just 2 of us from nyc
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NYC members get your asses over here let's get know each other!
Brooklyn, NYC, Staten Isl, Bronx, Queense, Long Isl, nearest NJ...
Maybe we all could meet some day to show off our systems? With pics and vids for SMD forum.
Anyone?
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actually i believe that zetaboards is free but this board u have to pay for...i forgot how much it is but when i use to admin for bot and hhnd it was like 15 20$ iirc..im drunk if that makes sence i hope
i didn't mean the IPB license which is about $200 now (few years ago it was free)... i mean the job here... installing, design etc. it's all "self to do"...
Edit: correction: $149.99
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I hired
You actually PAID for this board?
It's "self to do" IPB board and getting installed in 10 minutes including all additional modes...
next time you need something like that, pm me i'll do it for free! you'll just pay with another "pumping out eye" video... my 1st SMD video, after which i started my journey to the big world of pumping out eyes and SMD forum... :dj:
Tahoe System Rebuild 2009 is ALL BUT FINISHED and PLAYING!!!! UPGRADE to RF P2 8's 12/08/2009!
in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
Posted · Edited by ArtemCRV
it looks even more hot in the video... watch it guys! it's HOT and yes Steve makes it look like it so easy to do... haha
nice job!