steven
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Posts posted by steven
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I can't even read what is going on; something about a car and bike, thats it
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Ported will be louder. And inverting the subs will only make a difference if your bow wasn't the correct cubic feet for your subs in the first place.
IN MOST CASES ported will be louder, but when dealing with a driver that isnt round (example: square or oblong) you will get louder with sealed, and he hit it right on the head with the displacement commend, all it really does is add room to the box, yet exposed all of the soft parts to the elements, so unless you have a garaged car and a pretty hefty woofer, i dont recommend going inverted.
wtf???? Ya I want to hear reasoning behind this.
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these numbers make me feel great. i just ordered the aq2200d a few days ago. and i have pretty good electrical. all 0 big 3 under hood and 0 all way to the amps. 2 optima red tops under the hood. just a shitty 1 farad cap for now. n gonna be ordering the 270 amp ho from mechman in next week or so. now to get started on my custom box
damn you dont need that much electrical for just the 2200
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In your original post it says you have 3 alts? Did you car die? if not wire them up and make a vid I wanna see where you put the third alt I removed my ac and use the pully from it for my second I still cant see where you would put a third.
I have the ac ps bracket fabbed up to hold 2 alts one on top of each other... Just like stock locations of ac and ps and stock mounting to block...I'll take pics when I get home
They have not been installed yet, but was my thinking to NOT TO tie the 2 alts into the factory harness and leave the 3rd alt in stock location with stock plug controlling the car and front battery like normal. And have the 2 alts run the rear bank batteries eliminating those from the ELD completely
If I was running a 16v system I'd have to isolate it then correct?
Will this work?
Your eld is a good thing it forces your rpms to rise automatically when your voltage drops it would be better if you just run all your alts together and stick with a normal charge rate 16 volts would be harder to maintain. Dual alts with some good batteries will good for your electrical demands
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In your original post it says you have 3 alts? Did you car die? if not wire them up and make a vid I wanna see where you put the third alt I removed my ac and use the pully from it for my second I still cant see where you would put a third.
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I will say something this is a civic hatch? so an eg? I dont think its going to be possible to run 3 alternators in a 1.6 l engine. even with hondas cool eld, I still think you will kill the engine once a load is place on the alts...
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This guy I know said his limewire is no longer allowing downloads. So if he were to look for another place to download music where could he search??? For informational purposes only....
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BUMP?!
nobody likes world records now-a-days???
Hey your not too far from me if your attending these shows I will be around soon I wrecked my crx so I couldnt compete in sb1 as planned but I bought another so back in business.
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its probably recommended for a flatter response curve.
there wont be that much of a difference between 30hz and 33hz tuning either, seems like your making them compare like its 30hz and 40hz.
i have a pair in my friends truck and its at 37~38hz and it still gets every low in decafs music. Port size will help your box extend below tuning better..
his are also in ~2cubes each, because we planned on using an sax1000. but now we have a sae1200 so i might be redoing it at 1.75 per sub
This is what im texting you about. Look at the difference between daily street cars vs spl, ect. Spl=small box HUGE ports poor response on any other frequencies other than what box is tuned to. Reduce your port size and when you tune real low you will still pick up other frequencies.
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Okay I think everything seems to have been completely covered. Frito answered your initial question. You have the size of your enclosure already now if you tune your box at 30hz, just control the size of your port as stated that is whats going to keep your box from being too peaky at just 30hz.
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wire it to 2 ohms and be safe lol
buy an audiopipe ap3k the btl will take it no problem!
agree
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If you're sending different signals to the coils, it will fuck it up obviously. How can I explain this? channel 1 is right and channel 2 is left? Channel 1 = coil 1 and channel 2 = coil 2. So essentially when music plays right to left, you get different notes going to each coil. You can try it but i'm sure it WILL NOT end well. Ask someone who knows more about this because apparently you think I am stupid or something for trying to answer your question. Ever wonder why you associate a subwoofer with the mono and not stereo? 2 channel = stereo
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Upgrade electrical and run an amp at .5
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Alright. Im gonna do some research on a bigass ho alt or my car. But do u think it would hold up on my current electrical for now? Im going to be upgrading the big 3, and maybe throwin in a battery in the back.
Ya it will be fine on 2 batts for sure
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Think it would be better to just get the 1200? cuz i rly dont think i can afford a ho alt right now. Maybe a battery or two, but an ho alt is out of the question.
2 big batteries is more expensive than a big alt
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aq2200 will be fine. You dont need too many electrical upgrades for that power, but if your going to upgrade go big the first time. Biggest alt you can fine then start stocking up batteries from there
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that smd wont even move that much on that amp lawl go with btl or lvl 5
You can any of those subs moving on 3k in the right box, buy a van and build a t-line 3k will then do justice.
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I had a problem similar to this. but it was part of the box splitting at the joint and they were slapping together with the bass sounded like shit.
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hmmm i dunno about this.
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did you not read the post?? I want to be LOUD. so who needs sq? I dnt think sq matters when you're metering on a termlab.
Then go with an l7 or solo x the l7s and solo x's get loud in BIG boxes
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I've never seen Kickers in the right box blast 180s or sit in the top three at any IASCA SQ event, but all knit-picking aside, just because you can't get a hold of it in your area, doesn't mean you can't use it.
Ditch the Kickers.Move on to bigger and better things.Honestly, I'm not trying to hate on your setup.But there are many forum members on here that are Ascendant dealers, DC dealers, you can call DD, etc.ALL of these companies will drop ship to your address.All of these companies are far superior to Kicker.
whoa dude calm down kicker has done big things in comps. The usaci last year or year before world finalist did I think a 160 in the stock 0-600 class.
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Alright so one of the coils went dead on my cvx. Poop! right when i built this new box too. The 15" CVX i knw is capable of at least 143db with that box mabey more but i never got the chance to see. anyways do you guys think i should get another CVX or 2 10" L7S? I WANT to b LOUDER
are you set on kicker?
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yes i know my car is an si. its on the title, my insurance, vin number comes up as si, sunroof that i pulled out proved it was si, rear triangle says si, seats are si, stock door panels i pulled out and kept aside scream si, oh and not to mention the fact that i built the car from a junker to what it is today.
sunroof was taken out and 1/4" piece of steel was welded in. (all done previous to me buying the car and main reason i did buy the car) thats why the RF of this crx is 38hz. not your typical rex...not your typical rex build. door panels are the same because i said next month i would be taking them to be wrapped. i have a lease that ends on the 1st and would rather be moving into a place than living out of my car because i decided to waste time and money wrapping door panels. but thank you for your concern.
This is weird I own a 88 crx si. What else was done to make the rf that low mine likes around 68hz.
kicker l7 subwoofers 12 inch
in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
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