ChampN252
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Posts posted by ChampN252
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no, they can not all be tied in together let alone have some turn on and off. amps are not made exactly the same. every part has a tolerance, usually 5-10%. i would imagine there would be delays in the sine waves and the subs would be taking "steps". thats my theory at least.
a secondary problem is that amps that are left off but still given input voltage tend to fail over time.
sine he put it like that, go with. I never got into details about how it worked. I mean he didn't do it with music playing. He had to shut it off and do it first. But I'm really not sure.
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shop owner around here had a setup like that. He had switches, I believe, fiberglassed into the under the steering wheel on the open space.
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My old man has that tool, but I'm not should how it works. I don't think it matter hot/cold since your pressurize the hold system anyways. Well...hot anti-freeze is never something I've wanted to experience.
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anybody every heard of an inertia switch? I just saw that my ford has one, but a lot of vehicles like GM's and what not don't.
Well I just read I should get the fuel pump, fuel pump module and inertia switch replaced. No way I can fucking afford that. Maybe I won't die at an intersection
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So in my exlorer, the engine will shut when I make kinda sharp turns. It only does it when the tank is about 1/4 full. I does it more and more as the gas gets lowers. Easy answer sounds like keeping more gas in the tank, but I can't afford that. I've done a little research and have found no solid answer. I had some problems earlier and had the tank dropped and the fuel filter replaced. Anybody have any idea whats happening? It so shameful when you turn are at a busy intersection and your ride dies
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so you have it all in now? damn if I knew all that could fit back there. The 6 12"s I was talking about took a lot of space in a tahoe.
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biggest I've seen in a truck near that size was 6 12"s. You also need space for amps and batts, unless your running all that stuff in a different area.
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kinda off-topic. Can this site understand what we are talking about? I don't mean like it's living or understanding us (some terminator shit), but I see Lexus ads above us.
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Pretty cool situation to be in.
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Some one needs to go bust his shit up. I was never taught about fault tolerance in school. I'm reading up on it now, but still trying to understand how it works.
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wow, i must know some nasty chicks
No, I know where your coming from. 4 just seems low as an average. -
So I heard that the average woman has 4 sexual partners in their life time. I think that is grossly wrong. I know chicks that have done 4 guys in a day. You guys think that's accurate? No disrespect to fathers here, but I think most girls have done 4 before the get out of high school.
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I heard there are more cures for things than we could imagine. I hear there was something that could cure nearly all cancer by cutting it's blood supply off. I heard it cost a fortune thou.
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^^^ thanks. MECP tells you one way, but they don't account for newer battery technology. I think the Optima is their example AGM battery. So are these anything like Xstatic's battcaps or a different creature? These batteries sound impressive.
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I have a few Q's. I've learned that you have to provide the power to make the power. You should be able to make more amperage than your setup in full could pull in order to get the most of it. Let's say a 4 alt setup in a chevy that makes 1200-1300 amps should power a 13000 watt setup. I know about how batteries provide a little amperage in the circuit. My question is, a setup that pulls more power than you alts can make, can be powered off batteries? I thought if the alts didn't put that power back in, the battery would eventually be drained down. I thought thats why a lot of people with 20, 30 and 40 thousand watt stereos using batteries to power them could only play them for limited times? Like a car making 500 amps and the stereo pulling 400 amps, would only need one battery for filtering since the alts are making all the needed power.
Sorry I asked so much, but I have a pro on hand, so I gotta learn.
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I was hoping for a blow-thru in a elcamino
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they work best in a large enclosure...like a dumpster
That tickled my innards
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I started like in 03 or 04 and remember it like yesterday. Loudest thing I remember from then was a pickup walled with 4 of the orange MOJO 15"s and the MOJO amps. I can't remember if there was a 4K then or if it was two 2Ks. That seems weak now.
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When I first got into audio, the biggest amps I saw in shops were like the MOJO 4K and such. I was in shock and awe about that much power. Now that is used on one woofer. I;m fairly young, but my idea of bass head wattage has completely changed in recent years.
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This is something I've wanted to talk about as long as I've started here. When I first got in the hobby, it didn't take much to impress me. I thought 1000 watts was a lot of power. 2000 watts was for real bass heads. 4000 was for people out of their minds. I got my first true taste of car audio going to shops, talking to owners and listening to their demo vehicles when I was younger. That was like the most power you heard about in shops and still is in some. Now guys have 1000 watts on tweeters. I now feel to be adequate, you need about 10K wattage wise. True bass heads are now 20K and out of their mind people are 30K and up. I know a lot of you guys are seasoned vets, but anybody else thought the same? My last stereo was 2400 watts and I thought it was loud. My very first was 800 watts. I don't even want another setup until it is low and loud enough to choke me and blur my vision. It wasn't until I go here, that I saw the power I was dealing with was for amateurs.
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I hear ya, but I swear they have a guy here that is active. I could be wrong.
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I've wondered about getting inspected with walls. Do you have to take them out for that? I would love to run a wall my next time around, but they seem so involved.
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You need a bigger alt because most stock alts don't produce much juice until they get high in RPM. Your honda I believe has a 320A alt at DC Power. That would handle everything and more.
I'm pretty sure you got that the wrong way around, H/O alts produce the most power at higher RPMs, stock ones would most likely be designed to produce their power at normal speeds and idle. You can have H/O alts made to do more at lower RPMs though.
We wouldn't need aftermarket alts if that was the case. I have a bunch of car audio book that say other wise. Most aftermarket alts put out more amperage at idle than a stock does at the highest possible RPM.
Non-powered sub headphones
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
Like the title says, I'm wanting to know of some headphones with subs that are non-powered. My buddy has a pair of skullcandy hesh that he'll let me get. They sound great and have car sub-like bass. I've heard the build quality of them are not so great thou. I'm just wondering if there is better to be had. I've heard a lot about sennheiser's, but they're high as crap. If anybody knows of anything different or know that the Hesh's aren't fragile, let me know.