dsmdan
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Posts posted by dsmdan
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Those wheels are hideous and the tires are way to fat IMO. Put the stock GST rims back on it.
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Have a Pioneer DEH-p6000ub that works wonderfully with Ipod and Iphone.
$120 shipped.
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Hey bud, I was in the same boat as you recently. I ended up getting myself a Optima red top for up front (about 75ah) and a big C&D in the rear (135ah), and a DC Power 270XP alternator to keep them charged.
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hold on now. are you running these wires to a back battery or do they run straight to the amp? if they run to the amp, put a 300amp fuse on the wire close to the battery. then put a 150amp fuse on each wire close to the amp. otherwise you have a 600amp fuse running to your amp.
or you could just run the 300amp fuses and itll only protect against a fire. it wont protect your amp.
its always a good idea to fuse the alt + as well. the idea here is to protect against a fire. if that + wire grounds out, itll dump a TON of current.
Thanks for the help. The 2/ runs of 1/0 are going to a 2nd battery in the rear, and off the battery another 2 runs of 1/0 to the amp.
Should I fuse the 2 runs of 1/0 coming off the 2nd battery to the amp each with a 150a fuse?
And also, I was looking over the alternator wiring my truck. The stock alt wire runs into a PDC (power distribution center) where all the fuses and relays are. It doesn't go directly to the battery. I also plan on running 2 runs of 1/0 off the alt to the battery and have a few questions.
1. How should I do the wiring? Should I run the wires to the battery or to the PDC, or one each?
2.Should I remove the factory wiring as its small gauge, I mean will I burn it up with the HO alt?
3. The amp needs a 300a fuse rating as well, with the 2 runs of 1/0, should I also run a 150a fuse on each strand?
Thanks again, Dan.
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This guy tried lowballing me on my amp fs just yesterday.
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yea i would stick with the 200a per 0 gauge and no fuse from alt to batt.
as always make sure you have strong connections.
what kind of 0gauge do you have?
All my terminal connections are soldered and heat shrink wrapped.
I am running Shok CCA 1/0.
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i would run 200a or higher for both wires
the 150a fuses could limit the amp a little. remember fuses are current limiters.
what amp btw?
And I already have enough 300a fuses, but I'd need to order some lesser amp ones. Will it be safe running both 300a?
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i would run 200a or higher for both wires
the 150a fuses could limit the amp a little. remember fuses are current limiters.
what amp btw?
Either my RD 3250 or an AQ3500D, both recommend a 300a fuse.
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Hi, I am running 2 strands of 1/0 wire from the front to rear in my truck. The amp's fuse rating is 300a. Should I install 150a fuses in each of the runs of 1/0, or 300a fuses in both?
Also, I am installing a DC Power 270xp alternator in my truck, along with the big 3, etc. Is is mandatory to run an inline fuse off the alt to the battery? And if so, what fuse rating should I go with, I was thinking 300a.
Thank you.
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I verified that the Scosche terminals do fit my Shok 1/0 wire without any issue.
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you should solder them either way. use a torch.
Thanks, I had planned on soldering them anyways. I've got a nice hand held MAP gas torch, a few rolls of 60/40 solder, and a vice to help.
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If you have trouble getting the wire into the terminals, buy some zip ties and zip tie the exposed wire you are putting in the terminal near the end of the wire, it makes it much easier to put the wire in the terminal.
I heard Boon say this a week ago, so thanks Boon, it helped me out a helluvalot.
Thanks, that makes sense, it will tighten up the wire reducing its size helping it go into the hole. (Thats what she said lol)
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Hey guys, I wanted to update this thread. We just got our Scosche 1/0 ring terminals in the mail today and overall I am very pleased! They are not the mild soft looking metal as in the pics on the internet. They look of a nice grade, thick metal that looks like it should work great. I was concerned of the quality based on the pics I saw on the net, but they look much different. These have 3/8" holes. The only thing is I am slightly concerned about the wire fitting in. They look a tad small, but I don't have my shok 1/0 to verify if they will go in. On the order sheet it says Scosche 1/0, but on the bags they say 0/1 so idk. If its a close fit I will open these up a bit and use them soldered.
Heres a pic.
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Alright guys take a look here. I think I have the final revision of the box I hope. Should give me enough plenty of clearance for the sub. I plan on 45'ing the corners, using 1/2" threaded rod to stiffen up the port walls, and I may try glassing the corners as well. Also might use Baltic Birch wood if I can find it locally. Also if I can find some 1" something I'd like to just use the 1" on the face of the box, and then use a piece of 34" over it but counter sink the sub and have it just mounted in the 1". I'll also be supporting the magnet of the sub with either wood, or another 1/2" threaded rod going all the way through.
Please let me know what you think as I always enjoy learning new things!
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Is there a way to protect vehicles from the sound pressure
Yeah, try not installing huge ass subs.
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Here's the setup I built for my brother. It was originally built for his expedition but the engine blew and it barely fit in his new jeep.
Its a 18" FI BTL 7.9 cu. ft at 33hz box, with lots of port. Only getting 2k watts by an AQ2200, and even does mild hairtricks.
A few days ago he noticed it rattling a lot more and this is what I found. Enjoy!
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How should I go about bracing?
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Well after some more thought and research I've drawn up this box. What do you think about his box, how it will perform, etc? Should it perform better and move more air with the port being the length of the box?
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A friend and I have been looking for a bunch of 1/0 ring terminals. We both need about 20, or 40 total. I've been debating to go with some off the shelf gold plated 1/0 terminals that you find all over ebay or even on the forums, or going with 1/0 copper welding lugs that I can get locally and have used before. I have no problem using the lugs, they work well especially since I have the correct crimping tool, although I had planned on soldering them this time.
Anyway, my friend calls me today and said he bought 100 (thats right 100) 1/0 ring terminals online made by scosche. I looked up the info and as long as the pic is correct, they don't look gold plated and look like some cheap mild soft metal.
I am wondering if I should use these or not, what would you do? The systems consist of 3000~ watts, and we planned on running 2 strands of 1/0 each, along with a sprinter 165ah battery in the back. I'm betting these things are junk...
Here's a pic of the Scosche terminals.
Thanks, Dan.
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Give you a good deal on a Directed 1100d if your interested. 1100@1, but you can turn the power down.
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I haven't punched a baby since 86' brah!
Maybe I worded the title wrong, but I don't really mean VS as in which amp is better. I'm just hoping to get the same quality as I know I have gotten with my AQ2200.
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Both amps are fairly similar in power output, etc. I have a 3250v2 sitting here, and it looks nice but haven't ran one yet. They just came out so I'm sure there's not much direct info or comparison on them. I've never ran a AQ3500D, but I've ran a AQ2200D and I was very pleased and impressed with power output, overall looks and design, and overall quality. The AQ3500D is on sale for $550 right now as well.
I'm just looking for your opinions and info on them. Just chat about them if you will. Trying to make up my mind if I want to keep the 3250 or pick up a AQ3500.
Thanks!
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5:30 here and I'm still up and I don't drink......
** Solder/Resin Pellets for 1/0 Wire **
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Open barrel + heat shrink all day ftw. So Pro.