Jump to content

MonsterGolf

Members
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by MonsterGolf

  1. Well guys, i got a bit of an update.. I tried it with some polyfill , and well it helped a little.. there was just lots of that unwanted noize.

    So i decided to go back to a sealed box. I ran some more port sizes and hz through the port calculator, and i just cant get the port i want to work in this box. Its not deep enough.. SO the past fiew days ive spend repatching the holes with fiberglass and getting it all polished up. I just need to get some short stran fiberglass filler to finish off the holes, and then off to body filler and primer.

    I wish i had these subs to test the box before i put the holes in it for the ports, but oh well . you learn :pardon:

    So anyways i did the first 4 layers inside the box where the ports were, and then let it set, the next day i quickly put the subs in, and it works much better. Although its not the low bass that i was expecting.. not a biggie i suppose.. atleast i will still give me a quality bass with the whole system.

    Thanks for all the help, and i will keep updating this thead when things evolve. i sitll have to do the roof, so that will be a fun build. :good:

    I stll though want to do ported boxes when i have time to do the systems in my vehicles.

  2. How solidly are the ports fixed to the box? Make sure the flares aren't rattling against each other inside the box and check the joints in the pipe section of the port.

    Port noise is usually more of a whooshing sound, almost a whistle if it's REALLY bad. (EDIT: Sometimes you'll get a kind of buzz/rattle from a small air leak) From your description it sounds more like a rattle in the ports to me. You have plenty of port area already, certainly not little enough to be causing huge amounts of port noise, hence why I'm saying to look deeper.

    The fact that you mention flares on the inside is of a concern to me.. these ports are not flared on the inside end of the port.. and i think that could be the issue im having.

  3. Good luck with the fill. You got me out in my shop working on my cart again. Mine just needed a relay changed out and a tire fixed but I just let it set for a long time...

    Do you run the voltage regulator for your battery bank to drop it to 12v for your accessories or a separate 12v source batt(s)?

    I have a seperate 12v deep cycle batt to run all my goodies.. The largest voltage converter only handles about 25-30amps. The sub amp alone would cook it. But a volt converter would work fine for just a head unit. I also have a onboard 12v marine 20amp charger to keep the battery topped up between beat blastins. :)

    Btw i just did a video, but when i play it back the cam mic cant really pick up the noize. ill post the vid prob tomorow or monday.. but i will describe it the best i can.. It kinda makes the sound like when you put a plastic bag in a port or something similar.. That rattle, woof sound..

    I know i dont have anything loose in the enclosure, and the speakers arnt cliping or bottoming out or anything.. it does it from low all the way to high volume.. Ive just got that feeling that the ports are just too small. It doesnt have any low bass at all, just the ports shake like crazy.. When i stuff the ports close, and seal it to simulate a sealed enclousre.. it sounds like a normal sealed enclosure. No awkward noizes.

    Now i had another thought.. could the subs be out of phaze?? ive checked the wiring like 3 times over, and it should all work normaly. Anything i should do differently when wiring up 2 2ohm dual voice coil subs.. i have it set up to be 2 ohms at the amp. Each speaker in series for 4 ohms each, then the 2 speakers in parallel for a total of 2 ohms. Both are wiried the same.. no crossed +, -

    I checked the math for port cross sectional area. right now i got about 14.13in2 of flow area.. if i go with the rectangualr port that i would like to go with now.. i would get around 20in2 of area is that enough port flow for these 2 subs?

  4. Are you certain it's port noise? Check that the ports and woofers have a really good seal to the box, and also check that the box isn't flexing/resonating wierdly. That should be enough port for those subs to not have insane amounts of port noise.

    Could possibly stuff the box with dacron too, which should lower the port velocity some as well.

    Let me hook it up to the amp again, and ill stuff it with some filling to see if that helps..

    Then if i can, ill try and do a video that hopefully will pick up the noize, and what the ports are doing.. :good:

  5. i personally say glass over the port holes, it requires less power and would sound better, since its such a small box.

    kinda off topic, but i want to buy a golf cart, and dont know what i look out for. im trying to find an old beater one, on the cheap. any advice? just a lil toy, maybe put an atv engine and rear end in, just a toy.

    any advice friend?

    and yeah, that top u talked about would help. so would doors lol.

    but with the cart open, ported wont sound very loud. also, shoulda used waterproof drivers, but thats imo.

    If going with a ported wont give me the low Umph that i am expecting, i suppose i can go back to a sealed enclosure.. I just didnt really like the performance of a sealed enclosure on another cart when i had it, but if the ported doesnt work right, i will go the sealed root, it would just make things easer i suppose..

    Cart wize, first thing.. you looking for electric or gas? then i can guide you down the right path :good:

    Buggies Gone Wild, sweet My '73 Harley is on there somewhere I believe.

    Could you not go with bigger round ports for a shorter port length and less port noise?

    Was your the harley that was fully re done, and had the nice custom upholstry,? and the fancy wheels? and called "ill red" if so, i remember that one..

    Or the one that looked like a jeep? if so that one was pretty neat as well

    Seing that i am going to re-do the ports, would going with a square port vs a round port be more benifical in this case? Reason being is that the pre fab round ports that are avalabe in my area are way too short to get the proper tuning fequency.. so the ones i have right now, i extended them using fiberglass. But originaly i didnt want to go with a rectangular port right off the bat because of looks. But if its what i need to do to get these to work properly, then im all for going with a slot rectangular port. :)

  6. Why not a sealed enclosure?

    I had thought of doing a sealed enclosure, but i had the feeling that i needed more umph in a specific frequency because the sub was not being used in a closed listening enviroment.

    I had built a sealed sub system for one of my older carts, and it just didnt have the low bass that i wish it had.

    Once it gets stretched and the roof put on, ive got a special fabric driving enclosure that fits under the roof in a special track system, so you can use it in colder or rany days. I dont know, but it might help with overall bass quality.?

    Omg those are TOO sick! man, sound be crazy! got any vids!! and btw where are you in ontario i'm in ottawa

    Hey man, thanks. Unfortunetly i dont have any vids yet, when i took those pics using my digi slr, with doesnt record video. i do have a cam corder but it doesnt have a fire wire to transfer to the pc.. so hopefully this summer i can get some vids up. Im part of a golf cart fourm called buggies gone wild, were all us golf cart addicts share all our mods and stuff, and trust me, they been razzin me for vids as well..lol :D some of them were amazed that a electric and do a burnout like that.

    Btw im located about 10 min south of barrie, or 30 min north of toronto.

  7. Hey everyone, this is my first post in the fourm, i have a question regarding one of my new buids.

    Ive been a follower of steve for a long time on youtube, when he first started posting up vids, and i find it great that he now has a fourm, with a bunch of very informative members.

    Ok so here i start, i run my own buissness building extreme custom golf carts, up here in ontario canada. It was basicaly a hobby that turned into a very fun side buissness. Whenever i have free time from my automotive engineering course, its golf cart stuff 99% of the time.. LOL im sure there are many on here who can contest to a hobby iddiction. lol

    So i have my own personal cart for buissness shows and overall a promotional cart.

    started out as a 98 ezgo electric, and over the past 3 years, its has been slowly transformed into a luxury machine. Its got HIDs, 17" rims with low pro continenal tires, a 500 amp performance alltrax speed controller, and a 48v conversion. Ive gps'ed at around 73km/h, but i wont go that fast agian.. LOL its spooky. It still needs a paint job, and i got to tone down that spoiler with some darker colours.

    dsc1560xy9.jpg

    dsc0152aaaud9.jpg

    So what i need help with is this:

    The past year ive been contemplating to stretch the cart into a 4 seater, just like the factory shuttle style carts. To do this i am needing to stretch the frame, and to keep it looking as good as original, i ordered an original ezgo seat pod for the center of the cart.

    heres what a shuttle looks like

    White-Shuttle-01.jpg

    Now in this seat pod i wanted to put 2 10" kicker comp vr subs. And i wanted it ported as well. I decied that a reasonable tuning frequency would be around 45-48hz (seeing that its not an enclosed space like an car, the super low hrz wouldnt be felt as much) what do you think would be a good frequency. the main consideration is that, the different Hz, will make the port longer and i have a depth limitation as well

    SO i glassed the entire inside of the enclosure and sealed it up good.

    dsc0313.jpg

    I used a port calulator to see what i needed for 2 ports and length. I found 2 3" round ports that i thought would work good. And installed and pretty much got the rough fabbing done.

    dsc08860r.jpg

    So after test fitting the subs and firing it up in the house. I have termendous port noize! the frigen ports were gonna like explode.lol . So i think i have overall too small of a port area for these subs. and have a high velocity air problem

    The overall area of the box is around 2-2.3 Cubic Feet. (on the small side for these subs)

    Now i guess i have to go with a square port in the middle, but i have no clue what would be a good dimension to use, especialy when the longest dimension has to fit through the sub opening. Unless i cut out a larger slow, and recess the port in the front and support it inside.

    So i need your help guys, hopefully i can get my cart bangin this winter :yahoo:

    Then i can do my custom paint job and have everything done to match at once. And get to the roof. I have a 80" long top that im going to mold and fiberlass the inside, and put 4 kicker 6x9's, head unit, all my switches, and my voltage and amp gauges.

×
×
  • Create New...