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Posts posted by Enellz
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I love it, and a bigs up for direct tinsels FTW. Wouldnt like it no other way
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i can get some pics. but u really dont think 2000 for each sub is enough? i had the 2200 pushing one before i bought a second sub at 1 ohm and it pushed it pretty well.
Naw man lol, I didnt mean it like that. Those things are power hungry, hell even the copper version is known to take about 2.5K. You have the room to upgrade with those subs, from what I heard they can take about 3k + of clean wattage.
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Do you have any pics? I know their pushing air but those aluminum hdc3s are power hungry. Feeding them 2K each may not be enough, but man....be ready to push some air
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L7s are nice subs, I just think their soft part isn't the greatest, and reconing them are another story. But for that price go ahead, that's steal. Also those AQs are champs especially for the price, a dude on ca.com, ran a Sundown 3500 to 1 15" HDC3-A and did a 148 I believe.
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Personally I would just sell the amp, invest in a mono, and skip the L7s. I always say go with a sub that is easy to recone cheap. unless you get a amazing deal on them, other than that pass on them.
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So i'm looking at these refurbs at db-r.com, and I got this idea maybe I should get one and trade or sell my kicker 2500. I know my sub can take it, but will a refurb last very long? I just want opinions, getting close to starting my install and got to finalize some decisions.
Since its coming from DB-r, you shouldnt have much to worry about at all. They work like a champ, from what I hear . He fixes plenty of amps, and they come back working perfect. Remeber 90% of the time its never the amp, only the installers idiotic stupidity
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I still need a little advice on this
Hmm check your grounds. Are they installed somewhere touch bare metal and sanded down? Also what deck are you using? Just sounds like a bad ground to me, or a bad signal thru your RCA's
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People have bad times. I beleive that their was something more to this though personally. But a recone kit is 80 bucks for the copper, and 40 for the baskit I believe. Did you set your gains correctly and everything? (Grounds/ gains/ etc) IMO I would just recone the AQ's their beastly and take burtal abuse if you know what your doing. Also what was your box size for the 15?
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Well I got my mids and highs amp and am gonna be installing it today, the think is I really dont want to run an extra remote wire, so my Q is would it be okay to put a jumper wire from my sub amp to my mids and highs amp, so another wire wont have to be ran?
its called daisy chaining and it's perfectly fine for two amps. Three may be pushing and remember length plays a factor
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3-300w amps will most likely be class a/b. 1-1000w amp will probably be class d and more efficient.
One friend of mine had 3 jl 12w3v2-d4 and 3 RoFo p3001's with birthsheets at around 375 each=1125watt.
same subs wired up to 8 ohm drivers and parelled back down to 2.67 on rofo fan cooled t10001bd doing around 1000 @2ohms was WAY louder than the 3 single amps that supposedly put out more power from the same manufacturer.
This. Why bother with all those wires when you really dont have? Get one mono block and go from there, and if you plan on upgrading just get a bigger one and run it at 2 ohms for the time being. The less wires equal less mess
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you will be much happier with birch ply if you are comfortable your enclosure design is proper. Birch ply is stronger and WAYYYY lighter than MDF of the same thickness, and its most likely only a few dollars more in your area. the weight savings alone is worth the switch.
and if you have any problems with bracing use some threaded rod
hmm I didn't know that. Well I know what material I'm going to start using from now on for my builds
2 x Kicker L5 12" 2006 model - 2400 rms
in Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic
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I agree, I beleive the kicker L5 only does 600rms I believe. Dont EVER go by 'watts max', 'max output', or what ever other sale schemes they use today. Your looking at about 1200 rms two L5s can produce together