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Toady

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Posts posted by Toady

  1. I know what you mean, as both of them have had/are having issues and they are on blast right now from just about all their customers that are waiting, you have to take into account that Iraggi and DC probably sell quite a few more alternators on this forum versus Mechman.They both have their own spot on the forum for people to post their feedback and everyone is quick to post negative feedback these days it seems, so you are much more likely to see some one with negative feedback about them versus Mechman.Just saying....

    I agree they dont have there own spot, but as i did research i found less negatives on sites that Sold more mechman alts than any other brand. And i dont know about DC Power or Irragi, they could be good, I'm just going with what i know.... Just Saying

  2. I swapped my Iraggi's for Mechman not too long ago. The NUMBER 1 reason I went with them is Matthew hands down. If you have a problem and call (or leave a message) he is there and highly knowledgeable. If you're on the fence call and see what he has to say, he won't bs you. They use high quality parts and not some junk oem crap from overseas or used junk parts from old alternators (not saying anyone in particular does, just saying they don't use junk as a general statement).

    My last alt was ordered on a Monday here by Wednesday.

    X2

  3. Matt Logan from Mechman guaranteed you can call him, and he will ask you a couple of questions about how much power you wanna run, he will go over prices, and if it doesnt fit he will send you certain mounts free of charge. I got a 270 amp Largecase for 400, and I got it Tested it did 291 amps max, and alot at idle i believe it was around 174

    btw: ordered on a Monday, was here thursday

  4. Dude im no gonna bash on you or the product, but for as many layers as it will take to stop the rattles, you would be beter off buying secondskin. Ant is on here nd he is a cool guy, they have great prices, especially right now, they had a deal going on 50%off Damplifier, I don't know if it's still going on tho. but not to hate on Peel and Seal, but i don't think its very effective, a couple of people on here have installed it, and i saw one thread where a guy put it on and after a demo 85% fell off

    you wouldn't need more than 45 sq^ft

  5. Well i have a buddy that has 1 12 inch kenwood in the back of his truck on a pioneer 760 watt amp. Well he was getting ready to put in a neon light in his truck and well his brother told him it was ok to hook it up to the amp. So he hooked the postive and negative to the amp, but i have no idea why he also ran the cd player positive wire to the amp also. So he calls me and says can you fix this for me and as soon as i looked at it I :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:. The Deck was originally silver it was Black, along with the neon bulb, and amp.

    FAIL OF THE DAY

  6. Maybe he didnt charge the cap right. U gotta charge it to like 12 volts or something. Its probably not charged all the way. Or just lose the cap and dont fuck with it. Either one.

    I thought about that also, I guess tomorrow ima gonna start with charging the cap, then go to removing it and record results, hopefully he will go with a batt, and then that will solve it

  7. here is my guess. the battery is draining after that time goes by. the alt is working to charge the battery and run the system. the cap is trying to charge as well but since it charges so fast is just sucking power only to have it taken immediately away by the amps. so it never really gets a charge.

    very quick explanation because i gotta run off. sorry if it didnt make sense lol.

    Actually man that made perfect sense to me, That is true that caps charge and discharge quicker than batts. That could be the problem. Do you think a bat and maybe 2 runs of positive and negative would work better??

  8. I have a buddy that is running a brutus 2610D, hes got a dc power alt and his voltmeter at the batt reads 14.5 at idle, when full tilt reads 14.0-13.9, all he has in the trunk is a hybrid power acoustik capacitor. Today i noticed his voltages differ. When first startup the batt voltage in front is 14.8 and so it the cap's. But after some time listening to music, when he full tilts it his batt in front reads 14.0 to 13.9, but his hybrid cap reads 13.5 to 11.1 when the songs freq changes. I got out my voltage meter and the amps read the same voltage as the caps. How can this problem be fixed.

    EDIT:: Car is a Civic, has a everstart batt in front

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