Toady
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Posts posted by Toady
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Just curious as I'm currently upgrading my electrical. I'd consider the 12k to be up there with some of the much bigger amps out there which I'm sure most will agree on. Could I run a 12k with this electrical:
Dual 225 Amp Alternators
2 x 1300 CCA 200aH Delkor 8D-1300
1 x Optima YellowTop 750 CCA 55aH
I get that the electrical may be so poor for this amp that this post may seem like a joke. But I'd genuinely like to know, Thanks.
The best thing i can say man is, you need to add up the total amount of Amps that your car would be pulling if you ran that monster. Before we can give a good answer we would have to know how many mids and high amps you are planning on running and work with it from there. Honestly from my opinion considering a Dc 12k is underrated i would say with your current electrical system it would be enough to turn it on and (Maybe) run it on low power. The lower the ohm load depends on it aswell. I'd say you could probably throw 2 more of those batteries on it (4 total plus optima) and you would be perfectly fine. Again this information is just from what ive seen, somebody will probably chime in thats ran one before or currently runs one.
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No, nothing. Guess I'm just gonna have to buy one lol
Hey Bro im in Woodward Oklahoma
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IYep thats the best way to troubleshoot the voltage then c from there. Ay op did you do anything or get it fixed?
Im getting ready to check voltage. Everything seems to be working fine just that issue
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I grew up loving audio in every way. I started messing with it and putting systems together when i was 12. I started with simple headunit installs and worked my way up. I still learn new things til this day. The way i look at it we all have to start somewhere. You are doing good man you have the desire to learn more and to pursue car audio further on. Just keep working at it and you will do good man. This site has tons and tons of info, tricks, techniques, material, and tips you can use to do anything that you want. its helped me out alot, i hope it can do the same for you man. Everything comes with time..
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One of my doors is starting to act like that. It may be the relay to latch popper going out. That is the first place I plan to start looking when my job gives me time. It acts like not enough voltage is making it through to power latch popper.
Exactly! i agree with that, thats exactly what i was thinking that it was low voltage. But i cant explain why the button wired through pops it open everytime tho
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Have you checked to see if any linkage has come loose? Or maybe something is wrong with the popper.
Im not seeing any loose components and the popper looks great
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maybe it should have a kind of antenna looking thing so that the range can be picked up by the remote like in a remote start. This is what i would do, i would move the brain out into the open and hit the remote and see if that works if not then report back and well figure it out from there
I got into the truck today and moved the brain onto the floor board and hit the remote and it did the same thing. i hit it about 7 times and it finally opened
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make sure the battery in the remote is new and make sure you got good signal from the remote to the brain of the popper. If there isnt a good signal it wont work either
So do you think relocating the Brain would solve my issues?
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Hey guys i have a 1982 Slammed k5 Blazer with shaved door handles and poppers installed. The problem is with the door fully closed and with the button on the remote pushed you can hear the popping noise but the door doesnt move. With the door fully closed and pushing the button it pops open with no problems. with the door latched but not fully closed it will pop perfectly with remote and button. Im having a hard time with this issue. Its weird that fully closed the button will open it but the remote doesnt. Any help at all will be appreciated guys
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There are some very good brands in this site man. Look around at some brands other guys here are running. Selenium, AA, Sundown, Hertz, Rainbow, Morel, ETC. Alot of great options you cant go wrong here man. As for amps check out some of the amps partners here offer they get the job done for a great price
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Ok I have another post that's helped a little bit but I'm still trying to finalize what I'm getting. I think the cadence f100.5 is the best for what I'm wanting. I want the infinity reference 6030cs for the front and I was looking at the 5030cf for the back and an rex 10" sub. I don't know much about the Rms and wattage but will these work together I don't want to blow anything
What are exactly are you wanting man?
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im going to say hell yes! alpines dont get that loud anyways but usually if you make a good box 1 15 will be louder than two 12's. especially with that brz that SA is gonna scream!
I love how you say Type R's dont get that loud. Ive ran them for awhile now and in the right box on good power they will do decent numbers and get pretty loud. As to the op we cannot tell you yes or no. It depends on how well the box is designed. my opinion is 2 12s have more cone area so if the box is designed right should be your choice. But i dont own the vehicle and i didnt design the boxes so try them both and tell us how it sounds
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Its a good feeling to know that his dream came true before the big man called him. R.I.P
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here is my view on both companies.... Watch this vid ------>
http://www.youtube.com/user/audiofanaticz#p/u/134/R39ttuaz1XA
Nice posting that vid man. Alot of truth comes out in that vid
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I need some help deciding soon as possible, the guy is buggin me to trade today but I think i might be just keep the xplod because 150watt RMS vs 300watt RMS, Im assumin more RMS the better right?
Honestly man, do what you think is right, im not trying to change your mind. When it comes to rms yes 300rms vs 150 rms is more wattage. But when installed right in the right box the Rockford can handle more than 150 rms daily. Ive had customers throwing 600 watts unclipped to it all day years without problems. But like i said it also depends on enclosure and power thrown at it whether or not its been tuned right
Edit. Before i saw the vid posted. not trying to push rockford products, just between the 2 subs given i posted my opinion
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First off welcome to the forum. Honestly if i were you making he decision i would probably take the rockford sub. Higher wattage sub and you might actually like the quality better. Have you ever thought about going bigger like for example, custom ported sub enclosure, or upgraded wires, or bigger amps or subs. Browse through this site you will see awesome products that people are using from SMD partners and more, you will see lots of advice on how to build and install. One thing i learned quick back in the day is that your box pretty much makes your install. If you have a crappy box or prefrabricated you are cheating yourself out of sound and quality. A good box will make your system shine even will a lower end sub... Good Luck Bro
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just got into archery. I have a PSE Reaper and a Barnett Ghost 400 Crossbows. mainly just do target practice for now with some field points, but just bought a case of broadheads for some hunting later on, I really like the feel of the crossbows but thinking about adding in a compound or a recurve
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I Have a pretty rare Dirty Diana Mix, its slowed and boosted. I had DJ Slink out of Houston Do it for me back when i use to dj. It has several Drops and Sweeps in it that flows good with the song. I gave it to a couple team members back when i first got it
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A few sites on the internet including sonic have spools of kicker hyperflex 1/0, thats what i run and love it
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Congrats man, same here, got some schooling done graduated with honors in auto and diesel, its definitely a great lifestyle
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I can chip in my help on these topics too. I've been turning wrenches for 13 years and I've got resources for diagrams and schematics. And no, user manuals don't help for everything. Grab a Haynes manual for your specific car and flip to the "rebuilding a transmission" section.... Oh wait, there isn't one lol, they refer you to a mechanic or to a different book.
X2 Lol, 13 years man Respect
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Just got pm'd another question
Question: I have a 2004 ford ranger why when I shift does my brake and abs light illuminate on the dash and my turn signals quit working.
Answer: A common problem of this happening is lack of insulation on a wire inside the column. After a long period of time the insulation on a small black wire inside of the steering column that runs from the shifter will run and wear through the insulation, this will cause the power to ground and pop the #20 fuse behind the passenger side kick panel. This will cause turn signals to stop and a couple of lights to illuminate on the dash, also cruise will stop working.
Reinsulate the wiring using either heatshrink or electrical tape and problem is fixed.
that Amp "behind the glass case" - What amp DID you want that you NEVER got?
in Amplifiers
Posted · Edited by Toady
Was able to secure my dream amp a year ago. The Memphis Mojo 4kw