Toady
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Posts posted by Toady
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Also another thing I wanted to share with everybody, I live in the northern texas and northern oklahoma panhandle. And I work on a lot of oil rig companies diesels, like the duramax 6.6L the powerstoke 6.0, 6.4 and 7.3's and even the cummins 5.9 and 6.7L's. ANY DIESEL OWNERS! I want to warn y'all to watch out for diesel right now, its completley filthy. There have been several diesels that come in with a No Start due to WIF sensor codes. This is due to High levels of water in fuel, a way to tell on a couple diesels is look for a drain valve if equipped by the fuel filter. Most of the time when you drain it you will see pure water pour out and as it fades away you will see a greenish color meaning water is almost out of the diesel. I've also seen trucks come in that you can actually light the diesel on fire due to amount of gasoline in diesel. Just wanted to put a warning out for everybody..
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I'm making this thread to answer some of the questions that I have been getting lately from a couple of members on this site. Anybody can ask questions about any automotive problem whether its auto or diesel and I will try my best to answer them.
Question 1: My 4x4 stopped working on my 2000 gmc jimmy any ideas?
Answer: There is a technical service bulliten about this certain vehicle, that concludes that there is a weak windshield seal on the passenger side of the windshield that if not taken care of water can move in run down the inside of A-Pillar down the side of the dash and into the passenger side kick panel. We'll under the kick panel is the 4X4 module and it can easily rust and damage the module, causing 4x4 problems.
Question: Why does my grand am trunk leak but carpet is not wet at the top?
Answer: Do to experience (I own one) there is a gromment that holds wires for the rear brake lights. These gromments will get weak and will shift positions due to driving in puddles causing water to bounce against the gromment. An easy fix is to use any kind of automotive glue or sealer to help reinforce these gromments.
Question 3: When pulling a 6.6L duramax, how do you lift and where?, also did you take turbo off before?
Answer: I'm currently pulling one right now as we speak, an easier way to do this is make sure the radiator, grill, radiator support brackets, and all front engine pieces are out of the way. You want to remove all allison bolts and torque converter bolts. Remove possible harnesses and I would personally strip the engine to semi bare engine. Depending on what you are using I used a cherry picker in this situation I used some thick chains and bolted one end to the heads behind the engine on a bolt that held a groundstrap, and bolted the other part of the chain to a stud and nut that held the pulley brackets on on the front of the engine. You can easily pull and support the duramax this way. Afterwards I would take the turbo off once its out of the engine bay because some of the bolts are a pain in the ass to get to.
I will be posting more info about other cars and potential service bullitens later on. And if you are wondering I am a WK/ and ASE certified technician and I will do my best to help with any vehicle..
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The louder, the better. I am really not picky when it comes to bandwidth, I don't need to play the low lows. I guess I'm a numbers from a daily box fan.
i like the extremely loud aswell, if it has extremely loud mids and highs thats a plus
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This thread is just to see how everybody else feels about the different types of car audio, some people like the one note burp high spl car audio, some people like the musical high spl car audio, some people pure sq. Personally i like a build that looks great nice and neat but still gets loud and plays clear music. To me thats what car audio is about.
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Thanks man. Take care of my baby.
Awesome amp. And its in perfect shape.
I dont wanna see no scratches.
That amp will never be abused or scratched, its in good hands
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I recently purchased Ray's Memphis MCD 4kw from him and i have to say this is a A+++++ Seller to buy from. He sent me pics, kept me constantly updated, answered all of my questions, and sent me tracking info.
Shipping was great as soon as the money processed, the box was here on my doorstep in no time. Packaging was great, it literally took me 20 mins to cut through all of the bubblewrap. Im pretty sure UPS Could have ran over this and would not even have phased the amp.
Two thumbs up on this member for any buying/selling/ or trading..
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Ive seen this done before at the shop i work at. Its possible, but takes a good deal of man hours to get it done, also when it comes to lining up everything there are extra support brackets available for this. Ive seen people line up the Hd Frames with the 1500 cab before. they usually use stronger body bolts on account of the hd frame and a lighter body compared to the hd. I think this will turn out great man. but duramax on the 1500 frame is definitely out of the question, ive seen the chassis literally warp and twist, it takes some support to run a beast like that
where could i look for the support brackets, and what kind of bolts are we talking about here?, i mean like how much bigger?
The bolts in general are probably 1/4 of an inch bigger in diameter but the ones we used were higher rated than the stock bolts for weight and stability. As for the brackets ill throw up a link if i can still find the company
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As A Technician you can get some pretty good scanners. If you just want to show and erase codes i would get a 85 to 140 dollar code thrower that can be found at autozone/parts plus/ etc. If you want a big dog diagnostic tool, i prefer Snap ON, Such as the Modis/Solus/Verus/or Ethos. I even love the new Solus Ultra, it is a tough machine, easily diagnose a car before you even pop the hood on it. You can view any car you want and look up almost any kind of information you need on it. If i remember right, the Solus Ultra just released a week or two ago so its a a great price right now so i would definitely jump on it. i picked mine up 2 days ago..
BTW.. The Mac Tools scanner called launch is a very good scan tool also, has lots of information available. there is one downside with some of the tools that were released, so if you invest in one i would stay close to the mac dealer. They have a problem with the internal board that causes the touch screen to stick and shut off
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Ive seen this done before at the shop i work at. Its possible, but takes a good deal of man hours to get it done, also when it comes to lining up everything there are extra support brackets available for this. Ive seen people line up the Hd Frames with the 1500 cab before. they usually use stronger body bolts on account of the hd frame and a lighter body compared to the hd. I think this will turn out great man. but duramax on the 1500 frame is definitely out of the question, ive seen the chassis literally warp and twist, it takes some support to run a beast like that
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it dosnt have to be not runing. id just like to not waste the gas keeping it running. thanks for the help tho.
If you dont let it run say goodbye to the entire system if you do not have the proper electrical
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i just purchased one from Snap-On. They have a nice one that gets in hard to reach places
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Does this strictly sound like a hu problem or could it be something else
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After more testing, i disconnected the tweeters from the amp and you can hear the rear speakers pop. Can I get any input from the vets, i know this had to happen to someone else before
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Did some testing today, I disconnected the mids and highs amp altogether and the popping noise went away. So I turned it up again and you could hear the bass distorting very badly, so after more testing I found out that I had a bad set of rcas. I replaced the rcas with a set of my testing rcas and the distortion went away. Ok so I hooked back up the mids and highs amp and the tweeter pop came back as soon as I turned the bass knob 3 clicks. I'm really confused guys and thinking about hanging audio up for good. I honestly can't find this problem.. I doubt its sub amp because it works perfectly without the highs amp connected. I doubt its the hu because its working fine, without bass the highs work fine, without the highs the bass works fine, what the hell is going on here???
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The amp should be fine, its never been abused and still functions perfectly fine when bass is around 35%
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I Cant remember the exact model number, i do know its like a Clarion Pro Audio VRX Flipscreen. It was 1200 when it first came out. It happened about 1 week ago i was riding had music 25% up, then i turned it up and the bass and it was fine, about 4 minutes later it just started happening all of a sudden
Clarion VRX-755VD
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what clarion head unit
I Cant remember the exact model number, i do know its like a Clarion Pro Audio VRX Flipscreen. It was 1200 when it first came out. It happened about 1 week ago i was riding had music 25% up, then i turned it up and the bass and it was fine, about 4 minutes later it just started happening all of a sudden
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man i had somewhat this problems with my old 2 10" fosgates in my ford focus and it was the amp ( cant remember what was bad but it was something small ) if i find anything or remember ill let you know
Thanks bro, anybody else have ideas
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Bump...........
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First Amp ive owned was a Sony 1000 lol
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Ok Guys i have a stupid annoying problem with my setup. before i go into this, I HAVE replaced all rcas with the Fosgate Twists, I have ran the rcas on different sides of the vehicle than the power. I've tried ground loop isolaters and ive tried to ground the preouts and nothing. I have the common supercharger noise coming through my mids and highs and its definitely annoying. I've tried pretty much everything to get rid of it and now its just getting worse. The newest addition happened today, when i use the bassknob to turn the bass on i can hear scratchy crackling noise coming through the highs. The thing is when the bass is off you cannot hear that noise with the volume turned up and bass down. So i know the mids and highs are fine. As far as the subs they are fine as well. nothing wrong with the amps, subs, or mids and highs. So I was researching about a ferrite core electric filter to install onto the hu wires. DOes anybody think this will help? All Input is needed.
Also.. THe Alpine EX10 is completley out of the install and the capacitors are out and replaced with kinetik Batts
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Ok guys found the problem and has been corrected............ thanks guys for all your info, I tried numerous tests to get it to go away including relocating grounds, addding filters, regrounding hu, and so on. Well yesterday I got frustrated and decided to rip the amp raqck apart and get a better look at everything. I did numerous tests on hu and cadence eq and no change no matter what. Then I found out the sub amp was getting 0 ground noise it was all coming from the mids and highs amp. So I decided to play with that amp and all the speakers connected to it. Found out the loud noise was coming from my back 6x9's due to a weak wire, and the static noise was from gain a little too high dude to the eq's 10v preouts. Lowered the gain and changed wire and now 100% clean and clear
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Still need some info on this guys
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I do not use my ex10 for music, I always have it turned off
Automotive Problems
in Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
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Wonderful post. I'm trying to be helpful and help the people that actually want this information, so if you don't appreciate it man Get off of this topic. BTW User manuals tell you a fraction of the stuff you need to know in the automotive world