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Cashdollar2009

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Posts posted by Cashdollar2009

  1. Haha well my whole steering column is about as solid as it's gonna get. For now a pair of 15" XL M1's on a Rockford T2500-1bdcp at .5-ohms. My voltage isn't quite up to par yet. Ordering a Singer Alternator here soon. Looking to have a pair of 15" XL M2's or Level 5's by the end of summer with a T2500-1bdcp per sub. And I was going to tune higher since this is a temporary box to try for numbers, but I spend A LOT more time in the car listening to music. Sub-30Hz is where it's at man! I'm tuned to about 31.5Hz according to paper, but can play down to 22Hz with no issues and rather efficiently still.

  2. Pair of 15" DC Audio XL M2's on a DC 5k. Mechman high output aftermarket alternator and biggest XS Power battery you can fit under the hood. Three XS Power D3100's or three XS Power XP3000's in the rear. At least two runs of Knukonceptz 1/0 power and two runs of Knukonceptz 1/0 ground from the front battery to the rear. Big three under the hood with Knukonceptz 1/0.

    All of that can be changed to different brands, etc. Just giving you a solid brand reference to start with to give you an idea. It all depends on budget and willingness.

  3. DAYUM good to see this thing up and playing! :good: What was the second song you played by the way? Sounds like a great song for demo when trying to show solid kickdrum hits and whatnot to rock listeners.

    The metal songs where "Greeving - Abandon All Ships" and "Unrest - Parkway Drive" I have a bunch more with some badass double bass.

    Awesome man, thanks. I'll have to check them out. Badass build for sure. About time you get it all playing! Lol

  4. And basically what CJ said, in order to driver a woofer over it's rms ratings, the answer is the same with basically EVERY driver. If you have to ask, stick to right around rms. Just saying how much a driver can handle isn't answer enough. There are quite a few factors that play into it. If you do some research and get yours hands dirty on your enclosure, rms would be surprisingly loud. I ran a single 15" SA-15 for a while in my car and was doing around a 142db @ 38Hz on about 700rms clamped.

  5. If you don't have a ton of experience with the drivers, then 600-800wrms.

    Though people get away with 800+wrms daily. In order to run more than the rated rms you would have to have a solid understanding of electrical, clipping, and how to design an enclosure made specifically for your power handling.

    The enclosure specifications on Sundown's site are plenty efficient to run each driver off of 600-800wrms though. The SA-Series drivers are rather efficient and you'd be surprised how loud you could get off of a pair of them on a SAZ-1500d, SAE-1200d, DC 1.2K, etc.

  6. Those constant power series amplifiers are nice. I'm planning to run a pair here soon on some DC XL's.

    As far as your options, if you insist on running all three, I'd definitely say to stick with the 2.67-ohm load. Luckily in your case you have the "constant power" series amplifier, therefore you'll still probably see a ballpark rated 2400-2700wrms at that load. If it were basically any other monoblock, you'd see your power cut substantially going from 1-ohm to 2.67-ohms.

    What kind of subwoofers are you looking to run?

  7. I don't know how to edit on mobile, so I'll make one more post.

    Although three 12"s has more cone area, you will see more than twice the power on only two subwoofers because you would be able to obtain a final load of 1-ohm. Depending on the subwoofers, you may be better selling the third and investing in wire to upgrade your big three or look into a secondary battery to maintain a higher operating voltage as you would be wired down to 1-ohm.

    So you're really looking at theoretically 33% more cone area vs. 150% more power. I vote power. Just my $0.02.

  8. It seems the majority on forums, as well as myself personally do use the Titebond II wood glue. If you spread it evenly and keep the pieces tight together until it dries, it has always seemed to work just fine. I typically caulk all of the inside seems regardless just in case. Overkill isn't really a bad thing here.

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