Cashdollar2009
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Posts posted by Cashdollar2009
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Yeah it's always fun getting a demo from someone where you can actually smell the bass. lol
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From my experience, they can get loud, but aren't the nicest on the meter. I had my 15" XL on a little over 2k and managed a 145.0 even at 36Hz. That took A LOT of work to get to that number. lol. But to the ear, it was always pretty loud on anything I put in there. Probably because the car peaks around 43Hz and 43Hz is a good "loud note" in a lot of songs. lol
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Cool deal man. I'll be looking out for it. It'd be nice to see someone else actually try to get loud in an Alero.
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Friday.... Friday... 18... 19... 20. It's April. Haha yeah, with those prices, as long as you wait until you are in good shape to maneuver power tools, you can have yourself one damn cheap box. (In terms of cost. lol) Take pictures. Pictures are always nice.
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I'd say it's time to go buy some wood, glue, screws, and silicone.
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yea ive talked to u about that 15 remember
im planning on running --> http://www.sonicelec...te-R750-1D.htmlthis is going in my alero.
Oh yeah man I remember. Duh. lol
The Fosgate Prime Digital amps are actually pretty good. I put one of those very same amplifiers in the other day in a 2011 Silverado and it actually tested 964rms on it's birthsheet. Yeah with that amplifier, i'd aim closer to 2.5-2.75 honestly for the P3. At 3.0 i'd be worried about losing cone control on lower notes.
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I still think 3.0ft^3 is a tad on the big side if you plan to send it much more than it's rated 600wrms. But tuning and port area looks good. Looks as if you took everything else into consideration as well as far as displacement.
If you want to keep height and width, you'd have to shrink depth in order to drop net volume. That would change your port measurements up too. So it'd basically be plug and play until you got the tuning and port area measurements back to the same ballpark.
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Damn you. lol
And when I said to slim the width, I meant to slim to port width to drop the port area number down.
And 3.5ft^3 is just a generically thrown around number. A lot of drivers may fit into that category, but not all of them. My 15" DC Audio XL wanted 3.0ft^3, but I was also running 2.5k to it. When I sold it to buy another identical sub down the road, I had 500wrms to work with, so it like 4ft^3 for the time being. DC recommends 3.5ft^3 I believe. It is typically application variant.
The P3 though is made from smaller and lighter soft parts than those of your typical brands you see being thrown around on here. We sell Rockford Fosgate at our shop so i've been able to play around with them a bit. I'd honestly aim for around 2.5ft^3 as long as you only planned to run rms power to it. What amplifier are you planning to run in your application?
And nice car, I used to own an Alero back in the day. lol
Ignore the wing... lol
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Your height is fine as you subtracted 1.5" because of wood thickness, just slim the width up to drop port area, and that will take substantial length off of your port man. 50" is crazy long. lol
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The generic number used is anywhere between 12-16in^2 per ft^3 for a slot port. With too much port area you will have somewhat of a "peaky" response and your power handling will drop since you would have a much greater risk of unloading issues where your driver will bottom out at frequencies lower than tuning a lot more easily. For the Fosgate P3 series i'd probably aim for around 14in^2.
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141db in the trunk at 33Hz on music for 10"s is pretty good man.
Trunks aren't easy to get loud. And at that frequency, that's great!
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If you need urgent http://www.ebay.com/...=item4164d82cb9
I don't think that's gonna help^^^^ Lol.
I think this is what you meant man.
Thx, don´t no why but was from the last insert.
No problem, just saw in another thread where someone linked a Stevie Stone music video instead of a link to SonicElectronix, even though it was titled with SonicElectronix. Weird.
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The common port walls box refers to the top, bottom, left, and right sides of the port, therefore it should be three...
When you type in port length, that is the length following the center of the port back, and then into the box since it will be in an "L" shape. Physical port length is the physical length of the wood used to create your desired length.
Corrected.
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If you need urgent http://www.ebay.com/...=item4164d82cb9
I don't think that's gonna help^^^^ Lol.
I think this is what you meant man.
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Or bid on this one and hope for the best.
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just a question..... y do you NEED a cheap flip out. you know the cheap ones will break in like 3 months right
To clarify, not looking for knock off brand garbage. Just an older head unit from a reputable brand for around 150-200.
For instance I used to have an old avh5700dvd I picked up for 200 and absolutely loved it.
Nice link bro. lol Strange Music FTW.
And OP, your best bet for a flip-out of reasonable quality for that price would be your local Craigslist honestly. Wherever you got that flip-out for $200.00 was a steal if it was in good condition.
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There are a few members on here that could help you with a 4th order design. For a small fee (Ray charges $25iirc) the results you'd get from an experienced designer would be well worth the little extra cash. But if you want a 142-145 with an armrest hole and don't want too much trunk flex, a 4th order would be your best best in my opinion.
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Ninja's while typing slow. I vote 10"s or a 12" in a 4th order and run the vent into the armrest location. Or possibly a ported box, but still with the port through the armrest. People have been lucky with high sound pressure with zero spoiler issues, other have cracked plastic spoilers doing high 130's and low 140's. It really depends on resonance and the integrity of your vehicle.
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A142-145 is going to be quite difficult without being able to fold down the rear seats to be honest. IF it were a possibility, firing forward sealed off would be the solution. Possibly consider a couple 10"s or a 12" in a 4th order bandpass and port it through the rear deck so that all of the pressure is in the cabin as opposed to the trunk.
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Did not realize until the very end that he was a hologram....
That. Is. So. Cool.
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All of the little tips I know have already been listed, so I'll add:
There was a guy on Aleromod (forum for Alero owners) that I used to frequent that had his car lowered with wheels and paint and he had a sticker on his back window that said;
"No Fat Chicks
Ride Will Scrape"
Lol.
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Oh, and Beyonce has a song too using this sample. But the original seems to be the version with the bass. Not to mention, the second version would probably get you some funny looks at shows. lol
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My Stinger went three years strong and is going on two years in my buddies car. Other friend (DGold15) has had his for about three years now, no issues.
im planning on running --> 
Happy Birf...
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
Damn, and I almost forgot to Gastfreundschaft my Schlussfolgerung tonight. Thanks for looking out sir.