Cashdollar2009
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Posts posted by Cashdollar2009
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My printer has just decided not to print Microsoft Word text documents. Instead, it spits out blank sheets. The title page had some Word Art on it that printed out just fine, still, I am not getting it to print text. It zips through where the text is supposed to print then slows to do the Word Art correctly.
I have searched around for the last 20 minutes and have yet to find any real solution.
I JUST replaced the color ink cartridge, though in this case, I am printing out black text. The Word Art is black and prints fine.
Would anyone know of any settings or procedures I may have to go through to address this issue? I have unplugged and then plugged the printer back into my laptop. I have also shut down and rebooted the printer several times. I've never had this issue before and need it to print my damn paper that I need for class...
HP C4680 is the printer model number if that helps. Thanks guys. I'll continue surfing around for a solution.
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Yeah it's a 15" DC XL. And I wish I still had it laying around. Ended up pulling a 145.0 @ 36Hz legal with that setup. Actually sold the everything to a friend and he put it in his Cavalier firing backward and moved the port to the side. He did a 144.9 @ 45Hz legal. lol
If I can find the specs I used i'll message them to you. I ended up building the box then made the outermost baffle about 6" wider than the actual enclosure itself so I could better seal it off into the cabin. I just didn't have the cash for a wall or could justify to my parents at the time of doing a wall since they helped me purchase the vehicle and I didn't have it payed off at the time and by using two full rolls of gorilla tape to seal it off I was able to keep the car damn clean when I traded it in!
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In an Alero. Hell yeah! Haha. But if you plan to wall, it's something you should bring up in this situation. You'll be investing a lot of money as well as adding A LOT of weight to the vehicle. You're losing your ability to use your rear view mirror. I'd put it off for a little while and try to show him that you really have a passion for this sport so he may not think that you're just jumping into something that is going to impair your vehicle so much. lol
Last vehicle. Nobody does anything loud in an Alero.
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It might just be that I'm on mobile, but with the shadows on the dri er's door picture, it makes them almost look the same, or hard to tell the difference. So it's hard for me to give you a "this or that" answer.
Either way, them panels look great!
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Pair of 12" XL's
Also a separate price with CF dustcaps.
Thanks man.
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I agree to the terms.
2005 Chevrolet (Daewoo Rattlebox) Aveo
Good Luck TygaTony. You seem like a relatively new user. Sound deadening can be a great addition to any stereo application. Make the Buick sound real nice!
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Good work my man. You deserve it too.
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I've always lost a good amount of sound pressure by sitting boxes in the backseat out of curiosity. (It was a lot quieter.)
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Oh I believe so too.
It's only seeing around 500wrms, That's 100 less than the rms of a sub that will take four times its rated power. LolThis was just thrown together out of scrap 4ga and the box came from a friends suv. It was supposed to be a pair of d4's in side-by-side boxes ran at 1-ohm. So now it's seeing a friends ap1500 @ 2-ohms in a sub up port side jammed into an Aveo trunk.
Box tuned to 35Hz and this is a 25Hz note. I love it. Can't wait to get my 15" XL's in on my DC 5k and 28Hz daily port.
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If you are using a 5,000wrms amplifier, you are going to see even less power after voltage drop, efficiency, and all rise. Go with the XL's for sure.
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Go for the larger amount of cone area. (Four Sa-15"s)
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Might just have to free-air them daily on the 1500d @ .5 to break them in a bit.
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Op you need power to make power... 1 alt and big 3 isn't goin to do it. 2xls and 1- 7.5
If you have to point out to him that his electrical is quite insufficient, don't you think a DC 7.5k is a little much for him to try to put on a pair of XL's?
But really, less subs, less amplifiers, more electrical.
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Wall a pair of 18" XL's on a single AQ3500.1d. Spend the rest on your electrical. You want clean power. I really don't think you understand how loud just a wall with a pair of properly ran 18" XL's will be.
Not to mention less strain on the car.
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That matches Sundowns specifications. Go for it.
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Not sure if you'll like it. Slowed it down, played with the intro, have you peaking at 32Hz, and then cleaned it up. This was just a quick 3 minute edit before class.
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=85QBA6X9
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Peaks at 50Hz as is. Might play with it.
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Mind set on a pair of 15" XL's on my DC 5k. Double the cone area, multiply the power by more than 10, and add an efficient enclosure for this vehicle tuned low. Gonna have to make a few friends to hold my car together at events.
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^^^ Good idea. I am actually testing out a buddy's Ap1500 in my car that he ordered for his home towers i'm building for him and noticed it had an auxiliary input for the remote. I was like lolwut. Haha
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I get em very cheap and it's warrantied til the case changed no matter what
How cheap if you don't mind me asking? PM me if you feel more comfortable.
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A friend of mine that used to work for a ap dealer told me that
That's probably what the AP dealer told him. 1500's are more conventional than the 3k's for daily using customers therefore if they claim higher clamped results, they can push the product more easily. But really, throw two Ap1500's in a case and you have an Ap3k.
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if you have the electrical, you can run the ap3k lower than 2 ohms bridged
If you have the electrical you can run the 1500's below 1-ohm too.
where did you hear this from?
but if you can get 2 ap1500s lower than 1 ap3k then i would go for the the 1500s
but i cant remeber if the ap1500 has 0 gauge inputs?
oh, you could run the ap3k at 1 ohm on each speaker input which to me is essentially running a 1500 x2
Ap1500 has 4-gauge inputs, the 3000 has single 1/0 since it's essentially running power to two 1500's.
Speaker inputs on the 3k are internally wired in series so each channel at 1-ohm would be 2-ohms final on the board. But this is exactly right, go for the cheaper option. Gain matching and running multiple bass knobs and taking up more space for mounting two cases would be the real cons of two Ap1500's if these are the two options.
Not a big Audiopipe guy, but I have looked into them before for some "cheap" power.
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It's only seeing around 500wrms, That's 100 less than the rms of a sub that will take four times its rated power. Lol
Printer Issues - Class Project
in Computer Talk - News, technology, advice
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I hear you man. And the bolded options, yeah I was putting them off and if I hadn't found a solution by 1:30, that is what is going to happen.