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sven6977

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Posts posted by sven6977

  1. thanks for all the replies guys :)

    I do like rear fill.. a lot, and its nice for my passengers to hear it too.

    I think I may have been swayed to the RE comps and the coax's. Anyone else have experience with em?

    I would be getting the 6.5" coax and the 6.5" comps.

    Also, does anyone think that the foam baffles would stop the air pressure from bustin thru the woofers of the coax? (like these)

    Seriously, I really appreciate all of your opinions. And if there is no solution for nullifying the air pressure going through the speakers I guess $54 isnt toooo much to have die in like 2 years.

  2. I am pretty set on getting these for my front doors, but the whole matching speakers is awesome :)

    As of right now I have 6.5" 2-way eclipse in the rear deck, but they feel like they are going.

    So my question is, has anyone done components in the rear deck of a sedan? Does it sound ok? Or should i look for some coax's?

    Also, I was wondering If I put those foam baffles on em, would it help protect them from the subwoofers in my trunk?

    They seem to be "playing through" the woofers on my midranges and possibly damaging them?

    Thanks in advance for any responses.

  3. virus.JPG

    In my laptop virus alert wallpaper is displaying and System security 2009 automatically installed. System security 2009 showing that my laptop is infected with virus it ask me to scan after scan it showing many viruses. when i try to clean all virus it ask me to activate the system security 2009.

    I am using Mcafee virus scan it has catched some Fake Trojan virus . Now macfee also infected onaccess scan has been disabled automatically.

    yeah, this is definitely a virus. do what the guy above me said. go to safe mode, move your comp date back a few days, then download malware bytes (its freeeee) and run that. it should get rid of it. after that is done, run mcaffe or whatever it is you said you had just to make sure it got everything.

    gl bro.

  4. Check this out guys. I was driving to class and this started happening. My tachometer has not worked for the last 5 years as well as my speedometer or my temperature gauge (it's a 1986). Kind of old.

    You can see how it bounces when the sub hits. It's kind of cool, never knew bass could do that. Check it out.

    Sorry for the shitty quality, all I had was my iPhone.

    holy mother of god! lol

    Mine does it a lil bit, but daaaammmnnn thats a lot of movement. somethin tells me that somethin aint right.... imma hide behind this wall whenever i see your car bumpin, it may esssplooddeeeee lol :peepwall:

  5. Thats cool, I just hope you have had enough experience with women to see how truly mid-evil they can be. I'm not judging, I don't know you two, just saying :drinks:.

    x2

    to be realistic, "staying friends" in my experience only happens like .0001% of the time. but gotta stay hopeful if the "worst" ever happens right?

    but about the 18's, you could def fit 15's in there, I put a ported box in my buddies grand prix (i think its an 04 or 06) with 2 12's in it and there was still like 3/4's of the trunk left.

    Granted, they were 2 kicker C124's, but hey ya gotta start somewhere

    as for the 18's, not so sure, it would get a lil squishy in thar.

  6. I've been perusing the audio savings website, and their deals seem great to me. But with their car security, I know absolutely nothing about it and am thinking of maybe installing somethin in my car.

    I was thinking maybe this. I know Viper is probably the way to go, but I just am looking for some honest opinions. I wanna go for a two way system, and am gonna be buying some piezo buzzers to put inside the car and maybe some outside along with what comes with the system.

    Any opinions/help is appreciated.

    note: Imma cheap bastard ;)

  7. Stock alt will probably be fine, maybe do the big three.

    for the wiring, you wanna run it parallel, not series (which is what you described) parallel is hooking the positive (+) from amp to first sub, then the + from the first sub to the +of second sub, then the negative (-) from amp to - of sub one, then the - of sub one to - of sub 2. This way, you will end up with a total load of 2ohms. That way your amp is putting out 900W which is just over the total Watts needed for your subs (100W over).

    To find the gain you need on the amp, first don't use any bass boost, it distorts the signal and often causes clipping IMO. Second, hookup the main power and ground lines to your amp and the remote wire so it turns on. Then use a multimeter and set it to AC and attach the leads from the multimeter to the speaker outs on your amp. On your head-unit you should play a test tone track that loops a tone anywhere from 40-60Hz. (theres a lot of debate about whats the best frequency to use). To find the correct voltage you need your multimeter to show, you use ohm's law to calculate the numbers. (I=V/R)

    however, you change the equation so that you get I*V=V^2/R or W=V^2/R, then alter it so you get sqrt(800W*2Ohms)=Voltage needed=40V. So what you do is adjust the "gain" or "level" knob (i dunno what it will be labeled on your particular unit) until your multimeter reads that number.

    OR

    You could just set it by ear. Adjust your gain until your hear some clipping then back it off until you don't hear clipping anymore lol

    As Per the fuses, The way I understand it is that you want the fuses in between each electrical component to be just a little greater than the fuses used in the device. So say you have one amp that uses a 100A fuse and the second one uses a 60A, you would wanna use maybe 200A in between the two amps and the battery. However I'm not positive about that. (Someone Correct me if I'm wrong).

    Next time though, try not to write a book.

  8. Anyone have any experience with these speakers? Or anyone hear em before? I'm lookin to replace my temp speakers I bought to replace my factory door speakers, and on audio savings i came across these and they seem too good to be true. $250 speakers for only $45... whats wrong with them i say? Also, i noticed they have external crossovers but theyre coaxial speakers.... I'm a little confused.

    I just wanted some opinions before i make any decisions, because I was also just gonna get 5.25" eclipses to match brands with my 6.5" eclipses in my rear deck, but if cadence is actually good, ill go with those i think....

    Halp?

  9. I had another amp that I hooked up and it made the votage drop the same as the other amp. I have a 60amp fuse inline going to the back batt and a 30amp fuse going from the back batt to the amp in 8 gauge. If I double up the 8 gauge for the ground could that make a difference and ground it to the frame rather then the body.

    And the reason I have a second battery is because I have KC Daylighters, Hella 500 Fog Lights, and a Warn 8,000lb Winch.

    Gotcha bout the second bat. And now we know that the amp aint bad. So.... yeah, make sure your grounds are all touching bare metal and not paint. Also, yeah, ground to frame and if you have no 4ga the two runs of 8 will work in a pinch. the fuses sound fine.

    Give it a shot bro, worse thing that will happen is it wont work and you'll still have voltage dipping. Also, IMO, you can do the big three with 4ga or 2ga. not everyone needs 1/0 ga for that. (not everyone is running h/o alternators and 10kW systems).

    whats the voltage like before you turn your system on btw? Is it normal, low, fluctuating? anything unusual?

  10. I agree with the clipping. (How old is your alt though? maybe goin bad, or cant support the dual bats anymore)

    Personally I run a "1000W" Kenwood amp (really only like 170Wx2ch @4ohm [rms])and I'm at 14.4V all day.

    So I dont think its not having the big 3, and the 4ga and 8ga wiring (I have all 4ga).

    IMO the big three isnt really necessary in this situation, neither is the 2nd bat.

    Also, My buddy had a similiar problem with the "West Coast Customs" series of I think Orion amps.

    It was giving almost no power to subs, but was draining his power supply to about 11.2V at the worst.

    So probably clipping, bad ground, or faulty amp.

    If you have another amp layin around, i'd hook it up just to see what kind of voltage dips you get with that just to rule out the faulty amp.

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