Jump to content

sven6977

Members
  • Posts

    155
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by sven6977

  1. Im not an expert or anything, and I'm sure someone will step in if i'm wrong.

    But, that appears to be a glaze of sorts (used when firing in a kiln and then it becomes hardened and glossy).

    You want something more like an automotive clear coat. look into maybe "Killer Cans"(pricey but the best you can prolly get in spray paint)

    or just step into the spray paint section at walmart and ask for an automotive clear coat. At least get something designed for plastics.

    You might also wanna give This STICKY a read through.

    edit: reading > me that can is non-firing, but still the same concept. For a car you want automotive grade or something weather resistant.

  2. you know i see a bunch of people suggesting getting these programs.

    Malwarebytes is for sure a great antimalware. Just keep in mind that you will have to download it from a noninfected computer and throw it onto a thumb drive or something.

    Some of these trojans and malware will take you to a fake site and you will download more trojans/malware. lol

    x2

    malwarebytes will definitely get rid of it. Happened to my dad, and thats all we needed. Just get a buddy to dl it and put it on a thumb drive for you. Best of luck to you.

  3. If you can't tell by looking at it that this is NOT c++, then you don't know enough to help.

    Not to be a dick but it's true.

    That is true, but in c++ you can still use that shit and it will still work. I was just thinking that maybe he was getting some bad help from online forums or accidentally looked up the wrong thing. I have 0 experience with C, but a shit ton of C++. And tbh, i didn't read through his entire code. I only made it through his header and noticed he was missing any type of inclusion for a file system.

    edit: now looking through his code, i do see his use of the oldstyle file system. I will now leave this thread lol.

    Good luck Matt. Sorry I can't help.

  4. is this actually C or c++. I just wanna make sure. if its c++ i can help, if not it will just confuse the both of us :)

    if c++ you wanna #include <fstream> so you can pull the file from the user and then you can do your computations from their file using ifile and the extractor command, then use some if statements with counters and you will be all good.

    If it is actually c++ i can write out the code for you and it will make more sense than that jargon up there^^^

    If not, I apologize for the waste of text :) lol

  5. Holy balls. That is an amazing deal for great calculators.

    just spend another 30 on top of the 83 and get the 89titanium from staples. You will never need another calculator again. It does 3d graphing, polar coords, parametric equations. It can differentiate and integrate like an asian on speed, and it also will handle any other calculations you can think of. ++it also comes with EE pro. (Electrical engineer pro which includes a lot of formulas that can be useful in this field and also with the electrical field in general). e.g. it has ohm's law and also AC-DC conversion equations, and the different equations related to A/B amplification.

    For 90 bucks you almost wont need the internet anymore imo... except to come to this forum of course :)

    edit: But if you're just looking to get a more basic calculator, just go with the 83. It'll be more useful than the 82 in the long run.

  6. I think some of those pics were taken from a google search....

    probably. and omg, now that I'm an engineer I would kill for an old school one just to say I have one. Thats so badass. Granted they can't do the FFT or anything fancy and their clock is only like 125k. But still. ZOMG!!!

  7. because if you don't do it their way, you are a worthless human being. I got fucked over by a shop by me a lot when I didn't know shit. If you don't have a tattoo of a JL Audio logo inside of a heart on your body, they won't treat you good.

    lolled a bit.

    But yeah, I had an experience like that with a shop. They always catch you when you're either partially into an install, or are talking to the wrong person.

    In my experience there is no middle ground with local shops, there are either really friendly and great shops or assholish and terrible shops.

    They'll even try to tell an electrical engineer they don't know how to wire

    right :angry:

  8. Sounds good try if you hear a popping sound or distorted bass try 120hz and I definitely wouldn't go under 100hz for sure.

    Edit: also lightly fit them with polyfil it will help.

    Cool, I will definitely be posting a build log for all of this (mid may, then june) , so we shall see how it works out.

    p.s. where can i get "polyfill" i can never seem to find it near me. Im gonna google a little harder and maybe it will show itself. If I do, of course I'll edit my lack of knowledge lol

    edit: nevermind. Reading > me. I'll either order it from amazon, or maybe check out wal-mart's fabric section. lol

  9. thank you all for your replies!!

    Im also someone who likes rear fill...runnin memphis PR components in the front doors and rear deck. Ive heard mostly bad things about those speaker baffles. bought a set and there sittin in the corner of my room. but what you could try is enclosing the speaks. a small fiberglass enclosure would do if you can build it yourself...but you are taking a risk. most speaks are built for infinite baffle, so they may sound like crap if you enclose them. Ive built a fiberglass rear deck that enclosed the speaks before and it sounded great.

    thanks for the reply, i guess fiberglass would be ideal (can make the enclosure larger), but unfortunately ideal would cost me more than i can afford atm... (gonna buy some second skin for the trunk and whatnot along with power and speakers)

    Why not just put the rear speakers in the rear doors, scrap the idea of the rear deck. I plan to anyways lol.

    that would be awesome, but i cant afford to do that project yet. already shellin' out 3/4 of my work-study job salary for this lol

    If you run infinite baffle speakers your gonna wanna cross them high 100-160hz with a steep slope 24db per octave then they will sound fine, my t152s are cross in my a-pillars at 100hz with a 24db per octave slope

    Edit: that's if you run foam/fiberglass pods

    ^^great info bro.

    I think i'm just gonna be cheap and try the foam baffles, and cross the coax's over @100ish and i think my amp has a 18db slope on it so it should work out okay.

×
×
  • Create New...