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kmalinich

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Posts posted by kmalinich

  1. your 2 12s take the same power as the 2 15s in the same series because they use the same coil and the same magnet. (usually, but I don't know about RF)

    and the 2 SXX would be louder than the 2 SEX woofers but only if you had the power to push them with. on that t1000 the 2 SEX would be louder.

  2. a hair trick? lol. you'd need to move a shitload of air. that's what a hairtrick is... the hair floats in the window because there is so much air moving in and out of the vehicle window so quickly.

    you'd need like ... 4 15s AT LEAST in a really well designed ported box and a shitload of power (8k+) and more electrical upgrades.

  3. In the more recent GM vehicles... the HU is responsible for creating the door chimes and turn signal sounds.... plays them through the speakers...

    so with a new HU you need a "harness" that will play your door chimes and turn signal sounds for you instead of the HU. this "harness" is actually a small box that sits behind your aftermarket HU and also functions as an adapter for the factory harness. the box is what actually makes the chimes and sounds, instead of your speakers.

    it makes them a little quieter and they sound different, but you never hear them anyway because with your new system you're gonna have it turned all the way up all the time anyway :D:D

  4. that setup looks effin sweet.. no like... i love a good fiberglass job...

    and even if you're not a computer guy if you can figure out how to post and to post pictures your already way ahead of a bunch of people on here.

    now.. you're asking what RE subs you should get?

    and if i read that right.. it's 50" wide, 31" deep, and 21" tall that you have to work with...raw that's about 18 cubes... hehe more than enough space. are you gonna upgrade your sub amp with the new subs and new box?

  5. lol fuck old women, i remember out bumpin everyone at my school in traffic and i was only off 800 rms, gotta love knowing how to design a power efficient enclosure :D

    yeah, i'm off only 500 rms but i have a perfect setup and electrical... so only a 500 rms amp, but no losses through RCAs, power wire, terminals, bad grounds, low voltage, dirty signal...... so typical high school punk 1500rms = my 500rms. it really surprises kids

  6. Here goes...

    I just bought some sweet RF 1\0 battery terminals.. because I NEEDED them bad. The side post situation GM invented is some bull-shit. I lost the original side bolt for the positive terminal .. so I had a makeshift solution in there. To make matters worse, the two stock positive terminals (starter and alt, and positive to car) are really rough and don't put together a lot of surface area.

    To the story...

    So I'm sitting at a red light intersection after school a couple days ago, 1st in line waiting to pull out onto the main road. There were about 20-30 cars and 2 school buses behind me too, full of kids. (It's not a normal intersection, it's a right turn only Michigan-only deal) A few other kids were playing their systems and ~80% of the cars behind me were kids from my high school so I was like, what the hell. I'll break the rule and join in for once. (I usually bump VERY responsibly)

    So I get maybe 30 seconds into What's the Difference by Dr. Dre (42Hz :D) and all of a sudden, I lost all power. No system, no lights, no ignition.. nothing. So I slid it into park and tried to give it a couple cranks, but nothing. I couldn't even throw the hazards. Meanwhile, the light turns green. I get out and pop the hood, and sure enough the + bolt is just laying there outside the battery. Goes to show you can't half-ass anything in car audio. While I'm under the hood looking at it, trying to decide if I should just put it back in by hand, one of the bus drivers got out of the bus and comes over to me. Imagine this 70 year old evil looking lady...

    "TYPICAL TEENAGERS WITH THEIR STEREOS AND PIECE OF CRAP CARS. ALWAYS BREAK DOWN AND ALWAYS ANNOY ME!"

    (for the record, I have 72,000 mi on my car and 0 rust, mechanically and cosmetically perfect condition)

    She kept going but that's all I can quote. So apparently my HU didn't lose it's memory yet... because when I got the positive bolt back in, car and the system came back on at top volume. Just by coincidence, I was looking at the 70 year old bitch when it did.

    If I could have got her reaction on video.................she jumped right out of her skin, and did this move that looked like something from the Thriller dance. It was priceless. Her eyes got all wide for a second.. then she yells "TYPICAL!!" again and struts back to her bus.

    I got in and it started.. I sped away...

    Never forget that. But I feel like I gave teenagers a bad name more than we already get =( when I don't ever do anything to perpetuate it. Just my luck.

    So did I do it? Was it a Cool Story Bro?

    lol

  7. well, i can really get to the model number, as the two subs i have are in a box.i have i think a 750 watt amp. im not sure though, so these are the specs, tell me what you think:

    MTX Blue Thunder Pro 75x2.

    37.5 watts RMS/CH x 2 into 4ohms < 0.05% THD+N

    75 Watts RMS/CH x 2 into 2 ohms < 0.1% THD+N

    150 Watts RMS bridged into 4 ohms < 0.1% THD+N

    375 Watts dynamic power (IHF-202) Bridged into 4 ohms (14.4 VDC)

    RMS Power Ratings @ 12.5 VDC, 20Hz-20kHz

    i think that's no where near enough power. and you have at most a 150 watt amp. but then again you take into account...efficiency and input voltage and other factors... she's probably putting out about 110-130 watts.

    dynamic, peak, music, any watt rating that isn't "RMS" is bullshit. every time

    oh.. and the subs are in the box... so you can't get the model..

    use your brain. TAKE THEM OUT OF THE BOX. OH MY GOD, REVELATION!!

  8. umm depends on the voice coils you get, and if you wire them in series or in parallel.

    Dual 2 would get you either 4 ohms (series) or 1 ohm. (series

    Dual 1 would get you either 2 ohms (series) or .5 ohm. (series)

    (you can't run a .5 ohm load that on that amp - not many other amps either, for that matter).

    Do you understand how ohm load affects power output of an amp?

    a Fi BL is rated 1000w RMS, doesn't matter the voice coil setup.

    that amp does 650 RMS at 4 ohms, 1300 RMS at 2 ohms, and 2000 RMS at 1 ohm....

    so you see where it's a bit overkill.

    unless you're running more than one Fi BL, of course....

  9. thanks guys.. i think i'm gonna go with the xscorpion ones..

    this GM side post bullshit it killin me. today at an intersection...literally, the positive fell out of the battery. no lights, system, nothing. and there was 20 cars and a school bus behind me. can't even throw the hazards...and i was bumpin before that and i get out, pop the hood, and its just laying there. i plug it back in, the HU fires back up, (ignition was still on) and it must not have ran out of power yet.. because it started playing again. i was like fuck these shitty terminals on the side of my optima.. its just disrespectful.

    /coolstorybr

    edit: getting RF terminals. thanks everyone tho...

  10. What's the best ones to get .. vs. cost? for example the knukonceptz KLMX wire isn't the absolute best super crazy wire on the market, but it's still very good for the price... that's the same kind of thing i'm looking for .. but for terminals.

    I'd need them to hold 1/0, 4, and 8 gauge. (preferably...)

    i'm not asking you guys to look for me or anything...

    just a question about which brand\model

    thanks in advance!

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