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Posts posted by 99xtremedime
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Well if your just wanting to get rid of the car soon anyway a pull-a-part would be best. Just make sur they tested it first, I got one for my truck from one one time and it didnt work.
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if you dont mind, how much was the replacement? its either get a new stock, call DC, or go to pick-n-pull LOL
Wasnt there with him, but i just called him and he got the remanufactured 80A one for 184.00. Napa is usually high so you might could get it cheaper at AutoZone or Discount or whatnot.
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Ahhh deja vu! Same thing just happend to my buddies 93 Celica GT. We replaced the alt with a stock replacement one from Napa and it fixed the problem! Definately sonds like the reg. as stated before.
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WOW... wierd thing is i literally JUST left knu's website looking at Y-Splitters for if i ever wanna add another mids and highs amp in the future when i glass my doors..... kinda freaky. But yes that would be correct.
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I want all of his music on my Itunes so that i can put em on my iPod. Zips 1, 2, and 3 transferred fine but from zip 4 on when i click import playlist it says this: 'The file "zip#.zip" cannot be imported because it does not appear to be a valid exported file.' Why did all the other ones work but these? How do you guys do it?
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best finish is spreading on some body filler, sand, sand, sand, sand, primer, paint, clear. Looks like a car's exterior when done because it basically is.
Really? I was thinking about doing that before i thought about resin but i figured body filler would crack all to shit.
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Or you could do what I was gonna do to my box, just get a small bottle of resin from Autozone and put a medium thin layer on the outside of the box, then sand it and have a perfectly paint ready surface.
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damn.. you were flexing the shit out of her shirt! lol
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Dude, building a box can be cheaper than buying a prefab.
Exactly what i was gonna say. Pay someone on here to design you one- $0-15, 3/4" MDF $25.99 (around here that is), Screws ~$5, Glue ~$5-10 depending on how much you use. There thats under 50 dollars and that is less than you will pay for any pre-fab box of the same size or quality. And not to mention it will be built to the specs of your speaker and get every bit of peformance out of it!
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no he meant 15 the % thing is a five... not to mention the box description says sing 15" sub enclosure.
And man i wouldn't buy a pre-built box. Chances are that box is tuned really high. Fi recommends at least 3 cuft for a BTL 15 anyway and that box is only 1.75.
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Maybe for a few seconds if it's rated at 1 ohm. Look for an amp rated at .5 ohm (like crescendo audio)
^this. Crescendo garantees their amps down to .33 ohms daily, and they say they can go to .20 for burps.
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a troll is someone who posts stupid stuff just to annoy other people
usually its just useless spam
ahh ok well that makes since...
thanks bro.
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I come on here many, many times a day and I read alot of posts where people are calling other people trolls..... infact I dont think I go a day without reading it. Can someone please inform me what a troll is so I dont feel so stupid and lost anymore? lol
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What kinda boost is that baby pushing? Does he plan on intercooling it anytime in the future?
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Get the Cresceno 3KWP... 3,370 @ 1ohm, and 4,030 @ .5ohm...both at 13.8V and for a beautiful price of 549.99
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What alt is that? Looks like the ones for the GM engines...
What options do you have?
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Well obviously they will be in the back of my S10. I'm not looking to do anything crazy. Just want it to lay kit when at a show or parked then pick up and go... may make some brackets so i can drag some titanium blocks but i dont think that is gonna effect the bag choice much. And I'm not ever gonna haul anything besides when i wall in about a year and have about 500-600lbs worth of system in the back.
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Which rear setup should I go with? I know I want Slam RE7's or RE8's. I'm not looking to 3 wheel, hop, or any of that crazy stuff...just good smooth FBSS with no binding and a good ride quality. Ive been looking at the SD 5 link wishbone kit w/ superpivots (not the bolt in backhalf). I also was looking at a cheaper alternative being the bolt-on 3 link or weld-in 3 link kits.Would the 3 link be an ok alternative? Can it handle the side to side ok? Ride quality?
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Something like this?
Yep. Thats exactly what I was thinkin. If thats not though port still then you may need 4 inchers.
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x2. three cubes at most. so at least add another 6" aero.
^this.
Or add 2 3" ports to the back corners so that its more appealing to the eye.
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I personally would pobably go with the AQ HDC3 18 with aluminum coils if it was between those 2 but thats me.
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Id go with the 18 on 2K because its more cone and less power so it will sound just as good and you wont have to do so much electrical. Basically im sayin the 18 is cheaper and will most likely sound just as good if not louder. But for a definate answer what subs are you lookin at?
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ok so see where i get confused, 2 replies saying two different things. Is 2 fuses between the front and back B+ really necessary?
DC Level 6 on 10k rms VID! tire, body panel and windshield flex!
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
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Damn... you know your doing shit right when you have tire flex!! lol