99xtremedime
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Posts posted by 99xtremedime
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Damn man, that sucks... looks like it hurt pretty good! In my welding class a few weeks back a kid was using the big ass hydraulic metal shear and cut 2 of his fingers off. Grossest looking thing ive ever seen!
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fosgate power t1462's i have had right around 65 watts rms, running them for bout 6 months, and they still sound great. They actually get surprisingly loud for 4x6's. plus price on them is great.
I have these and can say they are VERY loud for 4x6's. But lance_98main did the tweeter hit your speaker grill? It hits on mine and mine its cracking now. Pics of install pls or what did you do to make them fit?
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Well I finally got the rest of my RF equipment in; I went with teh Power 4x6's, Power 6.5" comp. set, and a Punch P400-4. Im comfortable with the comp set (except for where to set my high pass filter...reccomendations?), but all my questions are in the 4x6's.... I put them in a few weeks ago (off the HU) and they sound AMAZING with crisp clear highs except that they distort from the bass if I turn it up past 17-20ish.... what should I set my High pass frequency at? The frequency response on them are 75-22,000 but I still thik 75 would be too low so I was thinking set it around 100ish?? And also the 4 by's are rated at 45W RMS and my amp does 74W RMS x4 @ 4ohms so whereabouts should I set teh gain at? If you need any other specs or anything let me know. And thanks!
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there is so much on these amps. for the price they rock!! its 2 1500's internally strapped so its 1500 @1ohmx2, or 3000@2ohmx1
and
www.ebay.com
Oh, thanks man thats what i was looking for. Ill do more research on them next time before i post.
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holy shit, ANOTHER thread like this...........
Didnt do much research abot other posts on this amp..... guess i should have. Sorry 'bout that.
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Been looking into this amp lately and I found it listed as a 2ch. and a monoblock...... which is it? And also where is a good site to purchase one from because i searched it up on google and all the site it pulls up seem kinda wierd to me.
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Yeah see what all you guys are saying is what i knew, it has to be repaired to it prior state unless fixing it costs more than the car is worth. But i just got off the phone with progressive and they have no reports of any parts being turned down and that in the notes the guy took it says that there are custom parts on the truck. Now, I think my body guy is trying to screw me over and make a few buck on the side so im going to go have a talk with him tomorrow morning.
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Ok so i got rearended about a week ago and I took my truck to the shop and the adjuster came out to take a look at it. When my body guy told him that the roll pan was a custom piece (street scene) he said that insurance does not cover custom parts and all that he could do was replace it with a stock piece which would be the ugly ass GM one (the girl who hit me has Progressive insurance if that has any relevence). But i was just wondering if they can actually do that, the part i had was a $200 good looking piece, and they are trying to replace it with a cheap, gay ass $80 stock GM one..
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haha yea, i drove up close for a while, hurt my back and i didnt like it, my new box will be 14.75" depth, so hopefully it will be better haha, also you must have a 3rd door to get 46". i can only get 43" with no 3rd door. it sucks!! plus getting big box's in and out, i have to remove my passenger seat and struggle with them.
Yeah luckily i got the 3rd door which help ALOT, and as far as seat placement goes it will be a little close but i surprisingly have enough room to lay my seat back quite a bit. My buddy is 6'1" and he can still fit in it, a little cramped of course, with a mock up cardboard box we made.
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i think your ports wrong. if your box is 16" deep (you must not be tall because in mine 15" is max i can go. lol) and if your box is 16" deep, port up, your port would be 14.5" (.75" on each side for the wood) unless your using 1" mdf. but the 18 will do nice in there, dont port sideways, its only good for smaller box's. sub forward, port up!!
Edit: sorry just re-read, you are using 1" MDF lol.... carry on hahaha
lol :01nocomment8so: on the height... i like being closer to the dash anyway and i already measured and i should be comfortable in it.
And yeah im using 1"MDF
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Depending on the position yes. Hell, I would try all three if your design allows. It's all trial and error and you might just be surprised with the result!
I'll will most likely do all 3 and try them on my buddies TL, but for now im gonna build the said box of one that someone else designs if they do and run with that for a while. I'm just to get away from a Sony Xplod 10 and .65 cuft sealed box....... lol (came with my truck back when i bought it btw... not my doings!)
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Sounds to me like you have a good solid start, and you're not expecting ridiculous numbers. Good on you.
The design sounds good. In my opinion though, I would try both your idea and also sub up port sideways to see which yields a better sound. Should pound nicely. I wouldn't be surprised with that setup hitting a 140.
Yeah i hate it when a noob thinks they can just buy an 18 and slap a box together and hit 160! lol
But when you say port sideways you mean facing either the driver or pass. side of the truck right?
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Ok I will soon be buying my BL 18 when income tax comes in, and I've been using exposports box calc. ALOT coming up with designs and I think I found the best one so far. I just wanna know you guys' opinion that know more about this stuff than myself. Ok, box external dimensions are 46W x 26H x 16D and i got a gross volume of 8.56 cuft. Slot port internal dimensions are 14H x 6.5W x 15L, and including the 0.26 cuft sub displacement i got a net of 7.46 cuft tuned to 33.16. How does this sound, it should definately LOVE the lows yet still play clean highs and get LOUD (hopefully close to 140ish???). Oh yeah and the box is sub forward port up on the driver side, and for bracing I'll use 1" dowels to save some space and the front will be double baffeled with a countersunk sub. Material will be 1" MDF
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depends on location, size, and depth
pictures?
if its in the right spot, and no metal is bent or creased, you may be able to do it without hurting the paint.
Ill get a pic tomorrow, and thats the problem, the dent is right at the top of the bed where it starts to taper in so its kinda like a beveled edge or rounded off i guess would be the better way to put it.
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Today someone in the school parking lot decided that it would be cool to put a nice lil dent in my bed about the size of a half dollar coin. My truck just spent 4 months in the body shop getting completely redone btw. So anyways my question is, is there anyway that i can pull the dent without scratching my fresh paint?
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one more question, AQ1200D or RF T1000-1BD? The RF is a bit more expensive, and the AQ puts out around the same power and is about $200 more affordable.
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ok i think ill get either the AQ1200D or the RF
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Absolutely, but as mentioned already, go with Powermaster or Kinetik. Check and see what the biggest one you can fit under your hood, and that should be fine... Instead of doing a distro block from 1/0 to 4ga, try and keep at least the T10001 on 1/0... Other than that, looks like a good list...
Very true...
Ok, ill run 1/0 to the T10001, i didnt think it would need it though but i guess its always good to be sure.
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What rims do you have on your truck? They look like Iroc's, Have any more pics of the truck? List looks good, Can't wait to see the build.
Yeah they the 20" irocs, i dont have any other pics with the wheels. Two weeks after i put them on i had a little run in with a pothole(still wasnt used to rubber bands LOL), and im saving for new tires.
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well i have been doing this for years, and there's a handful of others on here that are the same way. it's 90% in your box build. Some people can throw 1000+ watts at something and only be in the 130's, while others that know box and system designing can do 140+ easily on just a little bit of power. What im trying to say is dont expect a 140+ just because your going to have a big sub and decent power. If you dont hit a 140+ just step back and look at what you can change. Oh yea here's a little tip, if you plan on doing a regular box and not a wall, build it sub forward port up on the driver side. here's a link to my dime check it out.http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?act=findpost&pid=866332
Well the person who designed the box for me has been into car audio and building box's for people around here since the 80's. And my box is sub forward port up on driver side. I'll definately check out your dime though man, and thanks for your help.
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I have narrowed it down to these 3 amps. Which amp would put out the most, cleanest power? I just cant make up my mind. BTW it will be powering a Fi BL 18.
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thats a good list. Nice truck bro. I'm working on a 87 dime. It's getting a single dd 9515. I just got done putting in a 350 under the hood. My wife has a dd 3515, running on 400rms and she is doing a 143@45hz out of the trunk.
Ahhh i love the box dimes man, espatially one with a 350 stuffed in it! I will be putting a built 5.3 on a 100 shot into mine soon after i get this system knocked out.
If she hits a 143 with a single 15 on 400 then my 18 on 1000 better be at least 140 capable and thats all i want! LOL.
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if you haven't bought the optima already then i would suggest another company for your batt
powermaster, kinetik
optimas aren't very good batteries from my experience. they don't last as long as they claim. i only use them because i get them for free
No i dont have it, all i have so far is my RF mids/highs and amp from above list. What style battery do recommend from powermaster or kinetik?
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Do you guys think that i could get away with just doing the optima yellow top and a stock alt.?
Need help setting gains and HPF's.
in Mid's and highs
Posted
TTT.
Nobody has any suggestions or even any personal preferences for me to start at?