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Ben G.

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Posts posted by Ben G.

  1. Well, there´s a very simple rule on port area, 12-16 SQ of port per each cubic feet, it´s very good if it´s a simple box, but there are subs that likes smaller, others bigger, for example, my DD´s LOVE at least 16 SQ of port per cubic feet; Also, depends on the power, if it´s a small power you don´t have enough for a big port and viceverse.

    Said that, you find out how much internal space you want for the box, you get how many SQ of port you need, and the tuning just use the12volts.com or any other online calculator for the port depth, that´s pretty much it, of course, it´s way more complex than that if you are competing or something, but for a simple box, that´s the easiest way...

    Wow, I've asked people before and they blow me off!...Thanks A Lot man! I appreciate this soooo much. I can do anything as long as someone explains it to me. So the formula i should use is: (12-16SQ "s X Cubic feet of inside measurments of the box = Port Area.)So if i had an: 8 cube box and whent with 14 SQ of port area. It would be 8 X 14= 112sq inches of port area? Is this correct? This was just a quick, off the top of my head.

  2. Going to a shop will be 2-3x more the cost per foot. Order it online or like skullz said try a welding shop if you can't wait. A local shop here wanted to charge me $6/ft for 0/1 gauge and all they had was Rockford wiring.

    Whats wrong with rockford wire? and I was planing on putting some welding power wire in my car for my ground. I figured why not since i got it laying around.

  3. How do you even find out what to tune your port too?..I wann learn how to tune ports and i want to learn about port area.I've built some ported boxes and they seem alright but i have no clue what they are tuned to or anything..lol I'm planing on going a lot bigger this summer when i get my next car that i will keep a while. I need to learn about ports, so if anyone has suggestions,tips, or wanna help me learn. I would appreciate it greatly and you would be helping me a lot.

  4. So you are wanting less port or more? I have a-d-d and get really confussed. If you want less port i suggest putting some black foam: like people put on there roll cages in race cars. I would put it in the port with the slit and hole facing out so air still come out. start with longer peices and cut them shorter according to your liking. My friend did this when he F'd up his port..It worked well. Otherwise just make a new top piece and new port peices.

  5. My bud has a 3k also. He is running 2 18"s in the hatch. Box is undersized. It is a sealed box because he is a firm beilever in them for some reason. He has about 4-5 cubes and the subs are real close to the hatch. He is under powering the woofers by half. I mean he has enough power to make one happy. LMAO. He messed around with the latch so the hatch does not flex as much. Did a real nice job with it. It moves hair a tweak already. A lot more needs to be done with this system. I would suggest making a real nice box that hugs the lines of the hatch. IDK what your sub wants for cubes but i bet you can get close to what you need. I would say Sub in the middle of the box and port whereever you would like. My buddy also cut the round plastic peice that dips down on the hatch lid for more clearance for subs.

  6. what brands you wanting?

    i got some Audioque HDC 18s with aluminum coils.

    I'm kind of seeing what people offer me. ok, i've heard AQ's are real nice what is the wattage on those things? any flaws with the subs? What amp were you pounding them with? and how long have they been played?

  7. Anyone? cone area is well over double what i have now, i will make a new box for it, and i have a 1000 watt rms amp, if it helps. Im just trying to decide if i should drive that far for it.

    Eclipse Titanium serious are real nice, Ask the guy if he will meet you half way or something. When i've sold systems off craigslist to people that live far away i would meet them halfway or quarter the way. Doesn't hurt to ask the guy.

  8. rainbow is a german brand so its a little hard to find info on them but woofersetc.com sells them. my set sounds beautiful. the people that use JL think that JL is greatest thing in the world but have never heard of the brands most of us use. im guessing its just local guys that told you that, correct? thats typical.

    anyways, all i can speak to is the brands i have used and i recommended the ones i liked. i really dont think you could go wrong with any of the ID speakers or the rainbow.

    So you think any line of the rainbows would be nice on a aftermarket h.u.? What about mb quart? They are german made speakers rite?

  9. that is correct. its have many db the speaker produces off 1 watt.

    it would be hard to blow any speaker off the hu because of the low power and its not as easy to send a clipped signal on accident. but in general it is harder to blow mids/highs because its easier to hear them distort so you know when your doing something wrong. just read up on how to set your gains and you will be fine when you get your amp.

    my fav. brands for SQ are rainbow and image dynamics. boston acoustics are supposed to be great but ive never had them. the pioneer rev's sound good for the price if you want something cheaper.

    Never heard of rainbow, I heard the older image dynamics components are nice. Yes i am looking to have great sound quality. I want to be able to hear my vocals over my bass. I don't want them to be over powering though. I heard JL's components are AMAZING!!!! Is this true? Where can i find info on the rainbow speakers?

  10. since you will be getting an amp later wouldnt it be better to get some speakers that are best for an amp? they wont be as loud off the HU power now but later on you will be very happy with them.

    for low power you want high efficiency, 92db+

    Ok, thanks alot. Is it a MAJOR Difference between H.U. powering speakers and an amp? You can blow speakers easy if you don't know what your doing? Correct? I may just be happy with upgraded speakers running off a H.U. And the reason for the higher efficiency is so the speakers can utilize the little power they are receiving? Is that correct?

  11. Hey i am wondering if any of you guys have some good ideas for speakers that would work great on just on a head units power. I Would possibly hook them to an amp later down the line, but can not afford speakers and an amp rite now. So my question is what brands and models of speakers do you guys recomend running on just a head unit? Thanks alot

  12. imagine this... you have a scale with an empty jug of either side. you have a 3" tube running across the jugs but one of the jugs has a 1" tube coming from the 3" tube and the other just has the 3" tube. now the tube is your wire, the scale is your box and the jugs are your subs.

    following me so far?

    now you run water (power) through the tubes. the one with the 3" inlet would fill faster correct? then the scale would tip all the way over.

    so in the box, the subs wouldnt be balanced and they will actually fight each other.

    as for the "almost the same just a different motor and magnet and coil" those are the important things. the cone doesnt mean dick. and the magnet is the motor.

    So you are saying since they are a slight different ohm they will fight each other? and This is how i would hook them up: One set of wires going from amp inside the box, all the subs are s.v.c. so then postive from the 1st sub to the last then same with the negative. This is how my power-wedge box is wired for the 3 jl W0's. So This will not work when i add the ID4's?

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