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Mobile Chassis Dyno

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  1. I like.

    Would like to be able to do 2 of these ported.

    Hell yea bro. Jus do 7-7.5cuft after displacements tuned around 30hz or a lil lower (Since u love lows) and u will be AMAZED by the output

    You guys have the wheels turning in my head. Unfortunately I need to get to bed so I can be up in a few hours to hit the dyno rollers. I will check this thread again around lunch time tomorrow.

    Thanks to everyone for their input.

  2. a couple of SP4 15's ported sealed off from the trunk. it would be a tight squeeze, but i could probably pull something off for you. would get stupid low too.

    but yeah i think you could just do a couple of beastly 12's and still get really loud.

    like i said, feel free to hit me up for a design :)

    Will be on my list of things to do once we figure what sub/subs to use.

    Without using the search feature what is a SP4?

  3. So what are the max dimensions you are willing to go in each direction. H x W x D

    that box is only about 2 cubes volume not counting sub or internal bracing.

    The box in the picture is 1.10 cubic feet after sub displacement "According to RE" and bracing. Each sub in this box is sealed from each other.

    As far as max numbers I am thinking 15 tall by 36 wide. I am not sure about depth because of the seat slanting back. With this box at 9 inches tall I have 36 inches of depth. I am going to loose a few inches when I go to 15.

  4. I'd say definitely try a ported box. The extra time invested in researching, designing, building, and learning would be well worth it imo.

    Are you going to run the amp to its full potential or not?

    And you got a budget for subs?

    I figure I will do Dual 4 ohm coils. Series each sub to 8 ohms. Parallel all 6 down to 1.33 or whatever the math works out too. I do not plan on putting it on kill. If I get 1500 to 2000 watts I will be happy.

    AS far as sub budget it depends on what I find for the money. I am interested in know what the high and low end of the price spectrum we are looking at in terms of a 600 - 1000 watt RMS sub.

    If I go ported I would think I imagine I would do 4 12's given the air space I have to work with. The lower the box will play the better. I realize a ported box will get louder then a sealed box. I was under the impression as the frequency went down a sealed box would eventually be louder then ported.

    Please advise. Car in question is my beater. A 97 Ford Probe.

    As far as going ported on 4 12s in a probe, I kinda doubt you have the room. I dont know the car that well but that box would need to be in the 9-10 cube range for 4 12s. What kinda dimensions you working with?

    Like I said in the above post I am thinking I have 8 cubes of usuable airspace which is why I was planning on going sealed.

    Should I do something like 1 18 ported? The tallest I want to make the box is right around 15 inches. I have 36 inches of width. Depth I am guessing is 32 to 34 inches.

    Told you all I was a noob. LOL

  5. I'd say definitely try a ported box. The extra time invested in researching, designing, building, and learning would be well worth it imo.

    Are you going to run the amp to its full potential or not?

    And you got a budget for subs?

    I figure I will do Dual 4 ohm coils. Series each sub to 8 ohms. Parallel all 6 down to 1.33 or whatever the math works out too. I do not plan on putting it on kill. If I get 1500 to 2000 watts I will be happy.

    AS far as sub budget it depends on what I find for the money. I am interested in know what the high and low end of the price spectrum we are looking at in terms of a 600 - 1000 watt RMS sub.

    If I go ported I would think I imagine I would do 4 12's given the air space I have to work with. The lower the box will play the better. I realize a ported box will get louder then a sealed box. I was under the impression as the frequency went down a sealed box would eventually be louder then ported.

    Please advise. Car in question is my beater. A 97 Ford Probe.

    Current econo setup looks like this.

    Subwoofer%20Box%202.jpg

  6. Cliffs,

    - Going to be a sealed enclosure. I do not know enough to build a ported enclosure.

    - I understand this is power hungry amp which means an upgraded ALT and I am guessing 3 batteries.

    - I am not looking to set the world on fire nor shoot for any type certain SPL.

    - A friend was selling this amp for a good price so I bought it knowing it is more then I need.

    I have between 7-8 cubes of air to play with and I am looking for sub ideas to compliment this amp. I want to keep things simple and build a box once. I have never built any ported enclosures. Therefore I do not want to screw things up. I am not looking to set this amp on kill. I will be happy if I use 1,500 to 2000 watts of power with it. I would think this type of use will give this amp many hours of use and last for a very long time. I am thinking I want to do something along the lines of a 6 DC Audio lvl 3 12's with 1 to 1.25 cubes per sub. If not DC's what would be another good option for a sub that works well in a sealed enclosure?

    I like my bass low versus loud. I would rather do 140 db at 20 hz then 150+ at 40 hz. I play a lot of bassotronics and decaf tracks. The lower the bass the better I like it.

    Please be easy on me guys. I do not want an ass raping like a lot of other noobs. I listen to others and use their experience instead of figuring out what does not work the hard way. Just looking for something with a lot of low end grunt like I have now. I like how my current setup responds at 16-17 hz :)

    Please advise and take it easy on me. I do not know DEEBEEZZZ. Twin Turbo small blocks on E85 is my claim to fame.

  7. Sorry I missed this..

    In a sealed box you are only hear the front wave of the speaker..

    Kind of like how a piston on has compression at tdc

    Imagine if a piston would build compression on both the up and down stroke..

    Same theory, kind of.. With porter you are able to "hear" both the front and back wave.

    In theory, 2 of your 12's in a potted box, will be just as loud as 4 in your sealed box.

    Thank you for chiming in Ray. Now this is an explanation that a horsepower junkie like myself can understand. :drinks:

  8. A friend of mine who is pretty sharp in building ported enclosures is offering to both design and build an enclosure for me for free so I can see the difference between ported vs sealed. All I have to do is buy the materials. This is really tempting considering the fact my answer to increased SPL is to add cone area and more power. I have been telling him I want to go from my 4 12's and 1000 watts of RMS power to 4 15's and 3000 watts of rms (Staying sealed). He said why bother spending that kind of money when I can get you louder with just an enclosure. I think I am going to give him the green light and build me an enclosure. I am probably the only dyno shop in the country who owns a twin sensor term lab and does not do any car audio installs. LOL.

  9. You have to account for the port in the displacement. That is as simple as it gets. And sealed allows the sub to load properly so you get an increase in handling, this is why 4th orders are so damn loud. LOL

    Damn,

    I can not believe I did not think of taking port displacement into account. That makes a world of sense to me. :clapping:

    Thank you for the reply. Care to explain more why a 4th order is "loud"? If not I will get back to google and put my fingers to work to find the answer. Not sure what Transmission Line is considered. I had a customer come to my shop who had 4 8's in a T line and was blown away how much louder it was then my 4 12's sealed.

    Thank you again.

  10. Guys,

    I have used both the search function and google to try and educate myself about the differences in displacement requirements for sealed and ported enclosures. Why is it that a ported enclosure is typically double the displacement compared to a sealed enclosure for any given subwoofer. Obviously this is the way it works. I just want to understand how a ported enclosure needs so much more displacement over a sealed enclosure. My only guess is it has something to do with how the sound waves travel inside the enclosure.

    Also when talking about RMS power. Is this rating typically the same for both ported and sealed or can we figure on an increased power handling for a sealed enclosure providing we do not overheat the coil?

    Be easy on my guys. I tune 1000 horsepower twin turbo mustangs and vettes. When it comes to enclosures I admit the only thing I know how to build is sealed enclosure. :)

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