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REaudioBuff

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Posts posted by REaudioBuff

  1. Ok so I have not O-scoped my system but i did clamp my amp and im only using maybe a 1/4 of full power outta my addictive audio 500.1 so ya... I'm wondering if clipping is the only reason a sub gets warm or if overpowering it would do so as well? I have the filter set @28hz and box is tuned @34 and it plays down to 28 perfectly. At full tilt driving around voltage drops to 12.8 at the lowest on the hardest low notes. I'm able to do a 20oz gatorade bottle trick while driving :D The sub sounds amazing and its the best system I've ever had but just wondering if there is anything else i can do to improve the cooling of sub? or change something reclamp idk whatever it takes. I would just like to stop making the sub heat up. It doesn't smell just warm dust cap.

  2. Well thor whats the difference in doing so? I was making that bish move too man.... I mean when i clamped it i had a voltage drop to 12.0 volts now its dropping to 13.2 volts so :D but i clamped it around 1900@ 3.2ohms after rise @ 40hz... So i may redo it but i slammed it for about a 30min drive today non-stop listening to different songs trying to figure out its sweet spot and the sub was just over outside temp which was about 80 today

  3. So finally got my system back to working properly after replacing every single power and ground wire in my car... <_<

    Anyway when I am listening to my system if i turn it up and its pounding out the lows sometimes it will down right pop on a certain note i believe.... I have my subsonic @ 28hz and the sub is a DC xl 15'' wired @ 1ohm and its on an Addictive Audio 500.1 I clamped it right around 2k rms so I'm not worried about blowing it... Voltage doesn't go below like 12.6 and it just seems kinda weird. The box is tuned to 34hz port is 4''x 14'' and the box is 3.4 cubes... So if anyone has any suggestions let me know pls and thx! DC FTW!!!

  4. i mean i know its the stock 100 amp alt that comes with my car... I had that running my car for the last 3 years... But i just put a new one on cause the stock one started the voltage drop.... Then this one didnt fix it... And i charged the batts saturday and that day my amp showed 13.8 volts when i started it... about 2 min of driving around and playing music it was 12.0 again... IDK!!! HELP!!

  5. Any reading below 12.5 is bad on a AGM bat . The lowest resting should be 12.6 ...

    So something is really bad, a bad wire? Ground ? Check all ur wires ? They are connected to front batt ? Did you try to charge em up ?

    I checked all the grounds I dont think i have bad wires... The batts sit at 12.5-12.7 and i just dont get this... I mean even if both batts are bad... then when i have them off why is the back still not seeing the voltage the front is... I dont get this at all..

  6. idle with radio on 0 is 12.0-12.4 and i wont turn my music on much now cause if i do it drops i have seen 10.8 before doing the (oh shit knob down!!) I have had like 15 systems in this car i know what im doing and i have checked everything i can think of.... I redid the ground wire... I am going to re-run the pos from front to back. The crazy thing is if i dont have the back batteries on the system at all the voltage in the back is still 12.0 and front is 13.8... I just dont know... All fuses are fine all wires are crimped in... I just dont get it...

  7. I have a Dmm and when i had the 2 batteries in the back hooked up it worked for a month charging at like 13.8-14 so i was fine with that.... then it just started dropping so i unhooked everything checked the ground for resistance in the back where i have it grounded to my back strut... that supported my 7k rms system i had for the last 1.5 years... I measured the voltage in the back off touching the power wire and the actual ground with my dmm while car was running (no batts in back hooked up) and it read 13.8 just like the front... Right now i have it hooked up from the front battery straight back to the amp and it reads 12.0 at the amp and 13.8 up front with car idling.... WTF!!!

  8. I have a d3400 under the hood of my 2007 scion tc... It charges fine at a nice 13.8 volts with my stock alt... Now my problem is that I have almost a 2 volt drop to the back batteries. I have 2 deka group 31s in the rear of my car with 0 gauge running to it. I have checked the batteries and they rest at 12.6volts each if i pull them out of the car. Right now i have them sitting in my room and just the front battery hooked up and the voltage back there still reads 12.0 11.8 just driving around and will not climb higher... I have never had this problem before and my friends and I have no idea what is wrong. All I can think to do is redo all my 0 guage wiring and go straight from front bat to back for both my pos and neg.... I thought it was my alt at first so i got a new one and its doing the same thing so i really have no idea wtf is wrong. Battery or what???

  9. I have a 2007 scion tc... I just got a new alt for the car and put it in because the old one just looks shot and when i spun in by hand made some horrible noise so im assuming it is shot... lol 7k on stock alt for over a year...

    Anyways i installed this new alt and its also 100amp alt which im aware only does about 30 amps at idle but i have had no problems with charging for the entire time i had the car and system in it until about 6 months ago when i noticed the alt was probably going out.

    Now the most i see is 12.8-13.0 volts... I have had my car sitting on a charger for 2 days my back 2 deka g31a's are sitting at 12.87 each and the front XS power d3400 is at 13.3 resting... And for some GD reason my car will not charge at 14.4volts anymore... My vlotage will drop into the 11s if i turn up the system to listening levels i had just a month ago... That however would be just into the 13s or high 12's if it was charging @ 14.4 volts. Anyone know what the problem could be?? How to fix it???

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