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walwalka

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Posts posted by walwalka

  1. What is Your Favorite Car Audio Tip or Trick?

    in Sonic Electronix - Great Selection Great Prices

    Posted

    if you need to run a thin wire through firewall or dash then straighten a metal hanger, then tape the wire to the hanger and run it through that way.

    Big ass zip tie to run RCA/speaker wire.

    I use a car antenna that I cut the ball and connecting ends off and sharpened one end. Just gotta be careful, but it is great for pulling wires up through a dash and out through a grommet for you tach, hood pin, etc. For larger gauge I have a wire grommet tool..

  5. Random Picture Post V2

    in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"

    Posted

    why you gotta ride on that man? nothing wrong with running sub par equipment, if it makes him happy why the fuck do you care?

    Because this guy "should" know what he is talking about and why it's junk.. He's had 2 years of electrical engineering classes and in high school he was in the electronics class and all they do it learn about mobile electronics.. I know because I was in the class with him.. before this setup he had a RE SX 10 on a SINGLE channel of a four channel amp.. Then he had a 8 in kicker in the factory mounting plate for the factory sub free airing it and running it off that same SINGLE channel of a 4 channel..

  8. 170 amp mechnan alternator problems - Ended Up being my falut . . . OOPS.

    in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories

    Posted · Edited by walwalka

    You say your voltage drop is worse, but you don't mention any voltages?

    That were your voltages before the alt and after?

    How many AH is the stock battery? When I had my 1100.1 I have a small XS XP750 in the back to help the voltage. This was with a stock 80 amp alt.

    Before the small XS battery I would drop from 14.2v to 13.1 when the bass hit, I had a small the 1100.1 and a F300.

    After the small xs battery I started at 14.2v and dropped to 13.9v, half the drop I had before with one small battery. Hifonics amps are power hungry, they like to have a reserve of power.

  9. Amp Test Tuesday - Hifonics Brutus Elite BE1700.1D Rated 1700x1 - WIN IT! Pre-guesses inside

    in Amp Test Tuesday - Results from the SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno

    Posted

    I remember the BRZ1700 being like $200 bucks.. That extra $70 bucks, will pay for the wiring to hook that amp up.. :shrug:

    I'm just going off the $300 Steve spent.

    Ah, buying the BE1700.1 is dumb.. Hifonics can say it's a different amp all they want.. But the BRZ2000.1 is the same amp, it's $240. What does it do for power? I don't know, nor do I really care..

  12. Amp Test Tuesday - Hifonics Brutus Elite BE1700.1D Rated 1700x1 - WIN IT! Pre-guesses inside

    in Amp Test Tuesday - Results from the SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno

    Posted · Edited by walwalka

    It just all comes down to what you can afford.. I had a hifonics amp and then I sold it, it just wasn't for me. It wasn't junk, but it was exactly how it's priced. An entry level amp, that does decent power and isn't complete shit like the rest of those entry level amps. However, it wasn't that great of an amp either. It didn't do 2 ohm rated, or 4 ohm for that matter. It sucked a lot of juice to make what power it did. And all the blue light were too much to handle..

    I know what you're saying, that AT amp has blue light on it too.. But they are a third as bright as the new BRX line of amps which is what I had..

    Furthermore, in the end.. It seems to me that A LOT of the people who run DD thinks DD is the end all be all of great car audio... But for the price, there is better value out there. Is it Hifonics? Hell no.. Something else maybe. That's just my opinion.. I won't disagree that DD stuff is extremely good. But you do get what you pay for.

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