650rcode
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Posts posted by 650rcode
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not sure about the frequency of the music with tuba but if you know how to use audacity you could probably figure it out. i too use the epicenter for banda and corridos as well as some rock music, just wish it produce a much cleaner and authentic sound not the "synthetic bass" that it puts out.
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Just make your baffle/beauty panel fit as tight as possible, then tape the seams. I wouldn't suggest much, if any, expanding foam in that car.
Yea, I won't be using any foam. don't want to add anything permanent to it like foam. For any mod that I've done to it I always try to do it in a way in which I can return the car back to stock/ original condition in the future if need be.
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Gorilla tape would be cheaper.
tis what i used
and btw you dont need it, but it takes 6 sq ft to cover the roof
Gorilla tape? Really? How effective is that? I'm thinking of maybe getting a door pack to start to seal the rear deck and put some on the doors then go from there
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Cool thanks guys. Btw it's an '03. So if I'm just going to seal it off what product should I go with, damplifier or DP?
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Hey guys, planning on doing a rebuild in the Mach 1, forward firing Fi BL 15. How much SS product would I need to for the trunk lid and to seal off the trunk from cabin? Thanks in advance!
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I tuned a couple of friends systems the other night and my DD-1 turns off when turning up the volume on the headunit while tuning it and it also turns off when I'm tunning the amps and turning up the gains slowly. These are only the second and third vehicles I use the DD-1 on and I didn't have this problem when i tuned the amps in my car. battery is a energizer lithium 9v. Only way to prevent the DD-1 from turning off is to hold the on button while cranking up the HU volume or amp gains. Any one experience this with their DD-1?
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UPDATE: good news, the problem was in the wiring, i guess too much stress on the amp with the .67 ohm load, so i wired it in series/parallel like the diagram above to 2.66 ohms and all is good now. Given that each sub is only seeing a little more than 150 watts it sounds pretty good. he needs another amp for sure and he should be in business. thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated!
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ish this configuration would br paralell/series
the diagram i found on google looks a bit different i'll try this one out first tho and measure on dmm, or maybe they end up being the same? I'll let you guys know, guy should be here any minute.
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Series-parallel the drivers.
4-4-4 = 1.33
4-4-4 = 1.33
1.33+1.33 = 2.66
how would the connection for this look?
I think i found how to do it. connect three positives to three negatives then connect remaining positives together and to the amp, and remaining negatives together and to the amp. i'll hook it up and check the reading on my DMM.
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Series-parallel the drivers.
4-4-4 = 1.33
4-4-4 = 1.33
1.33+1.33 = 2.66
how would the connection for this look?
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here's a pic of the box
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He does not have big 3 done but does have 0awg power and ground. I would have liked to wire them at I higher ohm load but I couldn't fid another way to wire 6 4-ohm single voice coil subs. Iirc I think each sub has about 1.8-1.9 cubes. Dimensions are 49w by 28 d by 21h double baffled top piece. Port is 7h by 20w by 18d on the bottom middle of the box, I used Torres' calc. If I can figure a way to
Post pics on my iPhone I will if not I'll have to wait till I get home.
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Hey guys looking for some advise on a box that I built for a friend. Subs are 6 jl audio 12w3v3-4ohm svc. Box is around 11.4 net tuned to 33hz. Subs wired to .67 ohm on a jl 1000/1, given box rise I told the guy that it should be fine and system tuned with SMD-DD1. Now the problem, when turned up the speakers start to make a popping/ crackling sound, sounds horrible like if the subs were bottoming out. I suspect that it's a loading issue because the port is facing the rear with subs up and port is on the bottom middle of the box. The port is 7.75 inches tall so seems to me that the middle subs are loading faster and causing them all to sound like crap. I'll be putting in 3 2x4 s going across and screwing pieces of mdf on those to create equa-distant(sp) loading walls for all of the subs.
Hopefully some of you who have experienced this can chime in to give some insight.
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kinda late, but i also got a black basket on my Fi BL. looks bad ass
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I agree with the terms above.
2003 Ford Mustang Mach 1
Cool youtube channel and nice vids.
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I say go for it and do it on your own. My first and only fiberglass bottom box came out pretty good in the trunk of my mustang. Like you I also needed every possible cubic foot available so I tubbed out the bottom of my trunk. Seal off the area with painters tape and foil, place the front piece of wood where it's going to go and start glassing
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Got to set my gains with the DD-1 this past week. They were initially set with an old school O-Scope that a friend borrowed from work. This DD-1 was spot on with setting the gains, almost at the same spot they were before but just a tad higher. all i can say is that i definitely noticed a difference in how my mids and highs sound and the bass is louder! Was so impressed with the sound that i decided to just take out the Kicker eq that i was running. Awesome product, thanks Steve and the guys at D'Amore Engineering! Have only been able to set the gains in my stang so far but will get around to doing the amp in my Durango this week and hopefully some friends' systems.
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Hey what's up guys, got my DD-1 this morning just as I was waking up. Ordered yesterday at around noon and got it today around 10:30, talk about fast service. But I guess it helps that I'm only a couple hours away from Sacramento. Here are some pics of the new tool and a new toy I got earlier this month. Went to Vegas and got my Fi BL 12 reconed into a 15. Thanks again Steve and Scott from Fi. Enjoy...
Fi BL 15 D2 Fully Loaded 4inch VC
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Order placed! Can't wait to play with this thing when it gets here. Thanks Steve for an awesome product and a great deal.
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Hope to get one today
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As long as your gains are set properly the BL will handle a 1500bdcp. I have a 12" fully loaded with a 4"coil and it takes every bit of that 1500bdcp. It will get warm after extended playing time at high volume, but it's never gotten smelly.
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LOL, no I wish I was there to pick up some subs, I just went to get some t-shirts.
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I only went into the front office, not into the back where. Nonetheless it was cool to see where these great subs are made, and Scott seemed like a very cool person
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Thanks Scott for taking a couple minutes of your day to meet me and hook it up with some shirts. Wish I could have stayed a little longer and maybe checkout some of the newer subs, but the taxi outside had the meter running. Thanks again and I hope to do more business with you and your great products soon.
-Jupiter
Lexus IS-F Sound System install - Custom SMD VM-1/OM-1/TM-1f Dash Piece (update page 71)
in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
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I like the direction where this is going Steve. Great work! I have a similar setup in mind for my car using my Fi BL 15 and i think you may have just motivated me to stop being lazy and get to work, haha. Can't wait to see the results