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r00k

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Posts posted by r00k

  1. If it has a single mono sub out and you want to split it to run a 2-channel RCA. You would need a 1 male- 2 Female Y-adaptor.

    Am i visualizing this wrong or something? Male meaning it has an out right? How would i plug 2 females into 2 females on

    the Kenwood? :huh:

    Maybe i'm not wiring it the way i'm suppost to but... in my head i'm thinking the Sub Woofer out on the H/U goes to my Kicker.

    Then my Front and Rear (from H/U) will run to my Front and Rear on my Rockford. Meaning i'll need all Male outs on my RCA's???

  2. not to be a douche man...but you are basically askin people to teach you how to install over the internet...and to get the basics down there is really no better way than to get your hands dirty...if you have a local shop nearby see if you can trade off like sweepin the shop or cleanin work benches so you can watch and pick up on stuff

    Was basically lookin for a list of "needed" things before i got my hands dirty. I'm now gathering items

    so i can get started... but thanks all the same.

    Only thing i can't seem to find is a set of RCA wires that are 1male/ 2 male. Can you strip an rca wire and use 1 side?

  3. Would like to thank everyone for all the help! Seems i can do my own question and answer....

    Parts and Tools:

    As a minimum, you will need to purchase the following:

    • Sufficient length of high-strand count high capacity power cable.

    - The length required differs for every vehicle. You can measure the length of the existing cables and buy the same length, or contact your dealer or a mechanic and ask, or sometimes you can look it up in a manufacturer's wiring book, or guess. If you guess, make sure you over-estimate and buy too much.

    - High strand count cable is more flexible and more reliable than low-strand count cable. Never use solid-core wire in a moving vehicle as it will eventually break.

    - The gauge of wire you need depends on the total current draw of your audio system, and/or the current generating capacity of your alternator. Never use smaller cable that you used to power your amps; never use smaller cable than what already exists in your vehicle; never use smaller cable than the generating capacity of your alternator; never use smaller than 4 AWG (it's just not worth the time to use anything smaller); if in doubt, always use higher gauge cable than you think you need. If you look at the Power and Ground charts and your amplifier current draw corresponds to 2 AWG cable, use no smaller than 2 AWG cable, and use 1/0 if you can.

    • 6 ring terminals or lugs of the appropriate size for the cable chosen. Two of these need to be large enough to fit over your battery posts, or appropriately sized to bolt onto your existing battery terminals.

    • 1/2" or 5/8" shrink tubing (or some other form of permanent electrical insulation. Tape is NOT recommended.)

    • Cable ties (plastic zip ties.)

    • Wire cutters large enough to handle the cable you choose.

    • Crimpers large enough to handle the connectors you choose.

    • Soldering iron or gun.

    • Solder.

    • Scotch brite and/or a small wire brush.

    • Heat gun.

    • Safety razor blade (or other tool for stripping cable).

    • Heat gun (if using shrink tubing).

    • Wrenches for removing bolts in your vehicle.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUyYORNCzsM

  4. So i finally got an amp for my subs and my mids and hi's. Being the newb i am i have no idea what comes next.

    I could easily go and pay someone to wire this crap up for me but honestly i want to learn and do it myself.

    So basically i need to know what i need and what order in which i need to do it.

    If you could give me a "to-do" list that would be great. Guess i'll give you what i have wired now so it will help.

    I already have my subs wired, 2 15's and a Kicker 550.2.

    1 power wire, 1 ground wire and remote. (basic system)

    wired to a Phase Linear UV10 head unit.

    Where i want to go:

    Adding my RF T4004 to my mids and hi's.

    Please i know to most it seems easy being you've done this before but this is my first time.

    So i have no idea what i'll need or where to begin. I'm also doing the big 3 in the process.

    What connectors, wires, fuses, equipment and what nots do i need before i begin. Thanks for any help

    and if possible (KEEP IT SIMPLE)!

    r00k :search:

  5. So i got new rims and now i'm thinking of doing a few things but not sure what.

    Hoping someone could do me a few favors. Shitty pic but i hope its usable.

    I'd like to remove all the molding and lower it about an inch or 2. Not slammed tho.

    This rides actually going the opposite way i wanted it to. I wanted to raise it 4 inches

    and put mud tires on but.... oh well. Hope someone can do something with it. Thanks!

    r00k

    See the gap in the fender wells.... i wanna keep that just make it a lil smaller?? Plus

    remove the side moldings for a smoother look?

    02-13-10_edit.jpg

    02-16-10_edit.jpg

  6. Jensen UV10

    I have the exact model you have. All you have to do is have it ground out to play "video". Other then that the

    screen stays open and on while you drive. But all you have is the grey and yellow screen. When you put in the

    dvd or video cd its suppost to go to the blue screen and legal warning. Have it grounded out and it won't do that.

    r00k

  7. lol. mine in my suburban dont work. normally when you put a aftermarket radio in one, either the backb doors or rear roof dont work, dont know why, but I usally jump them. me personally, Id leave the rear roof ones out. they are 4x10's or some wierd shit like that.

    there seems to be a bunch of people on here from n.c. Iam 15 min outside of rockingham

    The rear one in question isn't doing anything not even a buzz. So not sure whats up with it. Figure i might just take them both out.

    Would like to find a way to mount some 6x9's back there some how.

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