Migz
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Posts posted by Migz
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Are the prices for shipping on ebay correct though? $30/£18 seems too cheap for shipping all the way to the UK. Bought a few things on eBay where apparently it had calculated shipping to the UK and said it was a certain ammount, then once id bought it the seller messages me telling me eBay was wrong and it'll be alot more.
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I've been dying for a DD1 for a long time but it used to work out so expensive to get it shipped from there to here. Recently i found a website selling them in the uk, www.bladeice.com, which are selling them for £140. But having a quick gander on ebay i managed to find them being sold on steves ebay for £77 + 19 postage (Although not sure if its so cheap due to the sales you've got going on). Works out quite a bit cheaper then bladeice, but i have a feeling if i was to order it from there the postage would change and end up being alot more. So i was just wondering if theres anywhere else besides bladeice that sells them online for the UK?
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Whens it out in the uk? And where willl i be able to watch it?
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I was thinking that the box might need to be bolted in, but might be a bit of a bitch to do it in my car as directly under my rear seats is my fuel tank.
Seal it with expanding foam? Never used it before but I assume that it will stick like a bitch to my car and be hard to get off?
Will definitely have a look at your build log, and some others too. Even if it is harder then I thought then that's fine, I will just take a little bit more time finding out everything I need to, plus it's doing something I love anyway so I'm not too fussed.
My car should be able to handle it, stiff suspension should be able to take it. I'll test it though, I'll fill the back of my car up with as much heavy shit as I can.
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Anyone? Come on, I've seen a few people doing walls, surely somebody could help me out?
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I built my first ever enclosure about 2 months ago, for a single 15" tuned to about 31hz or so. Shit pounds like mad. But obviouslly as a basshead i need MOAR BASS! So i've decided to build a wall. Im buying my old Volkswagen Golf Mk3 back from a friend and selling my car, main reason is because my Golf was beautiful, second reason is to swap from 5 door to 3 door, i think a wall in a 3 door is a better idea then a 5.
My plan is 4 15" 's in a wall directly behind the front seats, placed where the rear seats would go. But i need help with a few things....
Im building the box in the car, but how do i actually mount the box down onto the car? So its not going to tip or move at all.
Do i just glue the bottom wood for the box directly to the car? Or is there another way of doing it.
Its going to be subs forward port forward, with 3 common walls (top, bottem and side, so i think that means 3 common walls?) but is there any benefit to a specific side the port needs to go on? Or is driver and passenger side exactly the same?
I've seen a few people do two layers of wood on the side of the box where the subs go, im not sure what this is called, but does this help strengthen the box and spread the weight of the subs? Would this be something i should do?
I want to spray the box black, but if im building it in the car is there any tip or trick to spraying the box without getting it all over the inside of the car?
The box is going to be a basic rectangle/square shape, so what do people do to fill the space between the box and the rear windows? So that if people look from the inside of the car to the back they cant see into the rear of the car?
And lastly i need to know how to build the box so it wont just fall apart when the subs are in from the weight, do i need to put wooden "pillars" on the inside from top to bottom to strengthen the box?
I know i have a lot of questions but id rather ask everything i need to, rather then do it and have a shed of a wall.
If anyone can answer even one question it would be a great help, and also does anyone have a link handy to a build of a wall in a car that shows in a fair ammount of detail how the box is actually built and strengthened ect?
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Is this what Steve uses in his Tahoe? I've noticed a few times in his videos that he puts his hand down somewhere just before the bass kicks in, is this him turning this up? If so does anyone have any pictures of where he's put it?
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Youre right, your gain knob only works to the same place as your amp. So yeah of your amp is set at 75% then your remote won't go higher then that. Some amps when the remote is turned to full, it is only 75%. But on some turning the remote passed 75% will do nothing.
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Does the blackice line do rated though? Looks too good to be true for the 1800 monoblock.
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Would a 3hz rise in tuning really make that much of a difference?
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So i've heard a few times that you can use the fuses on an amplifier to work out roughly how much power the amplifier could put out.
I,e an amplifier with 2x 25amp fuses, has a total fuse size of 50 amps, so the amp could put out around about 400w rms give or take.
But the thing i dont get is at what impedance is this? Is this 400w rms at 4ohms? Or at the lowest ohm the amplifier is capable of?
I've seen an amplifier with a total fuse rating of 120 that says it does 1000w rms at 4ohm, which would sound about right for that fuse rating, but then it says 1400w rms at 2ohm, 1800w rms at 1 ohm. Which doesnt fit in with the fuse rating, but then it might be something to do with the fact they are at different impedances. Could anyone shed any light on this?
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3/4" MDF
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Yeah i just checked, it dies off not too long after that.
What should i have tuned at to be good for everyday music, whilst still being able to play a bit of lowish music.
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Crossover on the amp? Set around 80hz give or take.
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Anyone?
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So i decided to just man up, take your advice and build a new box. Sold my old sub so i could buy the wood, and just found everything else i needed in my shed.
It was my first box id ever made so there were a few edges and parts that didnt line up quite right, so i just fillered them like a bitch!!
Just under 4 cubic foot, tuned to around 31/33hz. Sounds so so good now! So happy i built the new box. Although i've noticed, everyday music theres a little bit of bass it doesnt seem to play, like lets say theres a song where the bass slowly drops, it only seems to play the relatively low bass well. Is this due to my box being tuned so low?
Couple of pics.
Takes up my whole bloody boot pretty much!!
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You can't just add the diameters together. If anything you'd add the AREAS together, but that'd only really work if the port lengths are the same length. Isn't the other one just a hole in the wood?
If you want a temporary solution until you can build a new box, I'd start with covering up that hole. The woofer displacement is more likely closer to .1. The wood thickness is probably 5/8 (.625") or less. So just by covering the hole, and using the single 3" aero at 4.5" long, you would get a tuning of about 40hz (if my values are correct). You still won't have enough port area or volume, but I'd think it would sound a lot better.
If you wanted to make your own slot port (don't know how you would even do that). I'm not sure, but I'm thinking like 15 sqin of port 17 inches long is the best you can do with that box. And it'd have to be coming out the side, so that it can be long enough. Also, if you can do 2 or more common port walls, that's even better.
The other one used to be a port, until i removed it to put in another box.
If i do the slot port it would have 3 common port walls i think, the back wall, the top and the bottom. So that should be alright?
i'd just use some PVC piping from your local hardware store. something thats the same size as that hole in the front of the box. i'd make it all external too, meaning that the port doesn't go inside the box whatsoever, it all sticks out. just to try to spare some room for that choked to fucking hell sub.
like this
Not sure where would sell anything like that here, but i will have a look tomorow to see if i can find anything like that, doubt it though.
X2 on the external port.
You can also invert the sub to give some extra space inside the box.
This was something i've been thinking about since i made the topic. When i had the 12" in the box i found that inverting it made it sound alot better. But when i put this 15" in i put it the normal way in, so yeah i may just invert it then. Although when inverting it do you swap the + and - around on the sub terminals? So that as its the other way around it still moves "outwards" when it needs to? As thats what i did with my 12" but i was never too sure.
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Also rather then start a new thread when the time comes, roughly how big should my box for the 15" be when i come to make it? Torres is saying the current cubic foot is either 1.61 or 1.39 not sure which one it is, what should an average 15" be happy with?
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I'm really not fussed about spending time or effort on it, it gives me something to do.
I know a new box would be much better, but i literelly don't have the money to build one right now, i get about £50 a week, £34 went today on new brake pads, leaving me with £16 for the rest of the week. Need about £20 for the wood and glue. Next week i've got to service my car. Literelly cannot afford it for the next few weeks.
But like i've said ive got just about enough mdf to build a port at home, so ignoring the fact a new box would be better, would this idea work? Won't be spending any money on this and really not fussed on time or effort even though i'll be building a new box in a few weeks.
Edit: @LZTYBRN
Oh right, didn't realise, will change that and see what it says.
One aero port was 12cm in diameter and nothing in depth, the other was 7.5cm in diameter and 11.5cm in depth. So 12 + 7.5 = 19.5, which in inches was 7.6.
I wasn't sure how else to put the dimensions in with 2 different port sizes, also not realising for aero ports i only used the diameter. Thanks for letting me know though.
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Need a bit of help with my box, its a prefab as i haven't got round to building my own yet. It is originally for a 12" but i i've made it slightly larger so it fits my 15", sounds like absolute shite though! I know its going to be because the box is too small for a 15 but i have to make do, as i can't afford to build my own box just yet.
Picture of my box,
As you can see it has a small port on the side and would normally have a larger one on the front but its missing as i took the port out to put in my gf's box. Its definitly too small for the sub but i have to make do with this as really cant afford to build a new box no matter how cheap it is to do
I've put the rough dimensions into the torres box calculater and heres what it comes up with. (If anything is blatently wrong please let me know as i wasn't too sure what to put in a couple of places, i.e the subwoofer displacement as i don't know what mine is, so just had to take a average displacement for a 15" of google.)
If everything is roughly right then my problem seems to be that as the box is so small the tuning is far too high, but i've noticed if i change the port dimensions from what my current aero ports are, to the dimensions of what a slot port would be for my box (13x1x8) then the tuning drops right down to 50hz, still a bit high but much better then 108!!
So i was thinking, ive got about half a metre of spare mdf at home, if i modify the box slightly so instead of having that gap where the old larger aero port used to be and put a slot port there of roughly the dimensions i said above, would it make this box sound a bit better?
I've also been thinking would running a port directly along the back wall of the box be any better? So that the port comes out on the right of the box, because putting the dimensions in that way the tuning comes down to about 40hz, only problem is it would be a bit awkward to build the slot port at an angle.
I just need to know if either of these ideas would work or not, i know that it'd be alot better just building a new box but cant afford it for the next 3 weeks as i have more important things to pay for, and i really don't mind modifying this box as it was given to me for free.
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Nice! Are you applying it as well? Or just printing and cutting?
I worked for 3 weeks at a vinyl company for some experience. They taught me something that might make cutting the extra vinyl away from the lettering a bit easier for you.
Bassicly "Yes, No".
When you've cut the vinyl and you just need to peel the spare vinyl off, start at the edge and start with yes. Yes means you need to peel it off. Then when you get to the next bit its a no, then the next is a yes. It sounds a bit useless but it's actually great when you're doing little numbers and letters and some are in weird fonts. Sometimes i'd get confused and take the wrong bit off and accidentily ruin a letter or two. Once i started using the Yes, No rule i always got the right bits off.
Im not sure if it'll be useful to you as im not sure what machine you're using ect, but just thought id throw it out there incase it does help.
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Have you tried starting the car with the power cable unplugged, and once its started put it back on the battery? Does the car die or is it still fine?
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I had two first amps as i bought them at the same time.
One was a Sony Xplod XM-255EX
I think it only lasted a few weeks before it died.
The other was a Alpine MRD M300
Loved this thing, it was unbelievably cool with its display and buttons that you press to set it up, but that also meant it was a bit confusing at times to work out how to do some of the settings.
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You can use the output of your MB amp if you want to.
Although id rather just run two sets of RCA cables. Front to 4 channel amp, and then set the second set to Sub on your headunit instead of Rear and run them to your sub amp. I don't know if theres any disadvantage with just using the output on your first amp though, id just do it the second way because thats how i roll haha. But if the first is easier for you just go for it.
Where can i buy the DD1 online in the UK?
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
Posted · Edited by Migz
Okay sweet! Thank you Steve. Don't think ill have money in time to make use of the sale, but oh well. It'll be worth the extra money anyway.