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bassfiend316

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Posts posted by bassfiend316

  1. Both the rope and caulk. The ropes can be backaged like the slim jim and cut to length. For those who don't have a caulk gun and don't want to spend money for something they will use once

    I don't think calking guns would be a big negative. You can get one for like $2.97 at walmart. I can only imagine a tube of SS caulk would be considerably more lol. Kinda like people who can't justify a $15 volt meter to keep an eye on their $2,500 system...

    I think I would use the caulking more than a rope (pending price differences, of course). Filling holes, reinstalling door plastics, etc, basically, anywhere I could use a rope, and then more places. Seems a little more...universal?

  2. I always just used a regular t55 and an air ratchet. Impacts tend to break those from what I've seen lol. Soak the hell out of it with pb blaster, heat it up and give it hell.

    If you're set on getting a plus bit, O'reillys had some last time I was there. Only had sets, but the set was like $25. That was for (I think) t30-55plus.

  3. First, I'm sorry if this sounds harsh, but..

    Personally, I hate the hood. I see a Cobra R front bumper and wing, why not the hood too? But it's not my car so...

    The hood needs adjusted to fit the fender better. The back of the hood looks higher than the fender. The door/quarter and door/fender aren't lined up very well.

    That's all I saw in the pics here. On the bright side, thank you for un-ricing that car lol. The bumper and stickers all over the door almost made me cry.

  4. They are not running at 2 ohms then, if using only 1 amp...

    But say he's only running 2 of the 4 coils, getting a 2 ohm load. That's the only way i could think of. But then again.. i'm not too sure.

    If that's the case, then those subs won't last very long. Lol.

    Simple answer-Just run all 4 positives together and all 4 negatives together. You will have a 1 ohm load, and will get the most out of your amp/subs.

  5. If you have two D4s, you're not running them at 2 ohms now. It's either 4 or 1. Unless you're running two amps.

    All parallel=1 ohm, series/parallel=4 ohms.

    Look at the12volt.com like already suggested

    Edit-well, I thought it was already suggested lol. Maybe that was a different thread. Anyways, the12volt.com has wiring diagrams.

  6. Sounds like he's asking what sub comes in a box that says it's capable of 173.5 db. Like the kids who add the sensitivity of all their subs together and claim their pair of 12's hits 188db... I have NO IDEA which brand of sub you're looking for though. Most likely a joke, or is a brand one of the top competitors runs, trying to use a burp car for an example. Like if DC started saying their 10s are capable of 155+. Sure they are, but most people won't be that loud with 2 10s.

    Or maybe I read that all wrong lol who knows. My broken English translator isn't working right lately.

  7. I was just using mechanic as an example. Welding is a good career choice though. I know a couple guys who do underwater welding. They make CRAZY amounts of money lol. I'm not sure how much more difficult it really is, but they pay (from what I understand) is almost 3-4x better. But still, if you're interested in welding, I say go for it. I don't know what the job market is like where you are, but around here, there's tons of opportunities for a welder. Manufacturing, exhaust shops, could even use it as a way to get into body work, aerospace, all kinds of good jobs.

  8. Honestly, out of those options, I'd go for the welding cert. I'm a fan of short classes for ANY certification. Even if it's something unrelated to a job somewhere later in life, it shows that you're willing to learn. That was one thing I always looked for when hiring at my old job. If you apply to be a mechanic, with no ASE certs, but you have, say, a welding cert, it's gonna make me think you'll have the desire to go get some ASE certs. A lot of places will even pay for your cert classes if they feel you'll succeed and be beneficial to the company. Just my two cents...

    Also, joining the Marines (or any branch of the service) is very commendable. :good:

  9. Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way with clipping. Once a song is clipped, reducing the amplitude will just make it quieter. Once the data is flat, it's clipped.

    Best analogy off the top of my head- Take a 5 gallon bucket. Fill it with 6 gallons. now you have 5 gallons in the bucket and 1 on the floor. the one gallon is the clipped part. reducing what's in the bucket to 4 gallons won't bring that one off the floor back into the bucket.

    Wow, that was actually kinda horrible lol. Anyways, the flat/clipped part is still there, just less than the 30db you can fit on a track.

    Say the clipped part is equal to 35db, and only 30db fits. That top 5db is gone forever.

  10. went to gym their company wont pay the overdraft fee but they are refunding the extras they have taken out. The manage of the club is giving us the $25 over draft fee out of his own pocket.

    That's cool. Maybe there are some decent people left in the world. Just make sure to keep an eye on the account. Some company I haven't purchased from in over 5 years still tries every month to take a payment from my CC account. On the 17th of each month, I get a call from Visa...yes, it's so common that THEY call me when that company tries it lol.

  11. That sounds cool as hell, but I can't think of an easy way to do it. Maybe a megaphone that records sound, with a converter hooked up to run it off your horn output? I wanna say horns are commonly 5v (I could be wrong, but that seems right in my head) so I don't know how you'd convert that into whatever power supply the megaphone uses. If you do figure out a way, I wanna see it lol. That actually is a really neat idea.

  12. Red jewel tintcoat and majestic red metallic can both have the 379e rpo. From your pic yours looks like red jewel tintcoat.

    edit - also good job posting the rpo sticker I wish more people would be as thorough 8)

    Agree on the Red Tintcoat.

    Magnetic Red II has the same code on Corvettes too. GM used the same code for too many VERY close colors.

    By the way, the pewter color is...light pewter. lol On GM cars, at the bottom, the "BC/CC U 379E L 382E" means Basecoat/Clearcoat, Upper paint is 379E, Lower paint is 382E. Just for future reference :)

  13. Assuming the 383 has a carb, have you tried adjusting the screw on it? 4-500 idle rpm sounds low. Its been a while since I messed with a carb, but loosening the screw will open it up more and idle higher. Might even give it a little more power on the highway. (Could have that backwards. Might need to tighten the screw, but I'm sure you'll notice which way raises rpms lol) Also, what does it idle at in park or neutral?

    Edit-phone sucks for typing a lot. Damn autocorrect...

  14. I've never heard a bad thing about their BC line of amplifiers.

    Hehe, look at the redneck dumbass from Louisiana 8)

    Haha that shit made me bust up laughing.

    Anyways, I've used the C series and they were good. Haven't had a chance to use any other lines, so I can't speak on those.

  15. No, nothing in that car moved except subs. You all realize the airbag is not set off by anything inside the cabin of the car right? It takes a significant amount of force to trigger an airbag. Usually in the opposite direction of that which you are traveling. How many of you have been thrown into a dash or door or whatever when the subs were playing?

    On top of that, most (I'd say 95%+) cars don't activate the bags until a certain speed, so demos and whatnot cannot logically set it off. Some are based on reduction of speed, some are changes in g-force (which, to an extent are the same thing.) Either way, none are based on vibration.

    I suppose if you were driving along, full tilt, then SLAMMED into something, you could try to play it cool and say your subs did it. :peepwall:

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