bassfiend316
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Posts posted by bassfiend316
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http://www.beckerautosound.com/Service.html
go there. pick your year, model, then "Back Panel Connections" until you find a pic that matches your radio.
That would at least help you fingure out the + & -. From what I remember, most/all MB cars have factory amps, so you may be better off just running new speaker wires. Also, depending on the year, they used a 2 piece radio, one in the dash, one in the trunk. Never knew why lol, just throwing it out there.
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P/N
CA-8506
1986 S-10 Accelerator cable. Get the number from autozone, but oreillys, advance, etc. should be able to cross reference. Also, I'm not real familiar with older s-10s, but unless there is a big change from 86-87, it should be the same part. You might ask them to cross reference with an 87 s10 to be sure.
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The hps10 works. I had one for a year or so before I upgraded to the tpi. I Just like having a scope and dmm in the same device.
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I've never seen any bigger than 16s. Check your local tire stores, they should have em. Or junkyards.
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I like my tpi440, some people like the velleman hps10. Its cheaper but lacks some features. Fluke is a good brand, never played with one of their Scopes though.
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its a trunk car. and ther is some kind of vent flap on the side of the trunk that leads to the outside of car.
those are for venting the air inside the trunk. Are they closed or is one of the flaps stuck open? They are supposed to be one-way vents, so air can go out but nothing can come in.
A good test to see if its coming from above is to line the trunk floor (or whichever side is getting wet) with toilet paper, then run a hose over the trunk/glass/wherever, keep it wet for a minute or so, then open the trunk and see whats wet. It'll give you a better idea where its leaking at.
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Also, if it's only in one corner, drill a hole in the floor so it can drain. I had to do this on my cutlass, and now in customer cars, if the trunk is flooding, I just leave the drain plugs out. Never had one problem with water coming in through the plugs/holes
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is it a hatchback or trunk car? cant tell from the avy
either way, check the seal around the hatch/trunk. 20 year old rubber tends to rot lol.
on trunk cars, some start to leak around the edge by the back window, it could be a slow enough leak that it doesnt drip but just rolls down the panel to the bottom
unless you're driving through a LOT of water, i doubt it's coming from the wheelwells, but its possible.
just a few ideas
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Nice, laid back, cruisin music. I like it.
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Didn't listen to the diabolic, but u said IT...how bout packfm? His newest shit "I fucking hate rappers" is nice. Been just about all I've listened to since it dropped. The skits are even funny lol
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150 @ 4 ohms.
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the port can just go all across the top of the enclose (end to end), 3.5 inches tall (which will give me about 18^2 inches per cube) and it will be 35" long, giving me a tuning fq around 33 HZ
How wide is the box? Try to keep a 9:1 port ratio or lower. If the port is gonna be 3.5" tall, it shouldn't be more than 31.5" wide. Might run into port noise if its over a 9:1, but in the back of an SUV, it probably wont matter much.
Eric is right though, a 90* angle at the "mouth" of the port is bad. Do the lower port, then go up the back wall if necessary
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My only "friend" with a system swears to me that cutting a hole in the side of his tiny sealed box made it ported, and hit harder. For 3 days until it blew. He's one of the "gain is a volume knob" guys...also, when his subs bottom out, its because "it's so loud, it just vibrates itself."
People look at me like I'm crazy when I tell em I'll have 3 alts, a shitload of batts, 8-12s and around 20kw in my dakota as soon as I find the money.
And I work with a kid who has a JL10W0 and a Kenwood plastic 12 in the same box, on two different amps. One is a pioneer and one is a dual. SMFH.
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It seems obvious, but before you take it apart, make sure the plug goes ALL the way in lol. A few people I know have had the same problem, they just weren't getting the plug in as far as it needs to be. Otherwise, sounds like you need a new jack.
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It would be better to start it low, then go up in the back, rather than having two corners in the port. Unless you MUST have the port at the top, like if you're gonna be hauling stuff that would block a low port.
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why will you have them but I wont?
I'm gonna do a box like your first pic, not like the one I drew for you. mine will be like this--
OOO[] Three subs and the port forward, so I'll have to run the port behind the subs...
Just got an idea. If you put the port at the bottom on your box and run straight back, it would probably be better than dropping down, THEN going back.
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and the middle sub won't have a loading problem?
I don't believe it would, but I'm not a big fan of three sub setups, so I've never had any personal experience. On the other hand, I'm gonna do 3 8's in my mustang all forward, sealed from the trunk. only way I can fit it is similar to your first design, with the port running behind the subs...I already know I'll have loading issues, trying to figure out how to minimize em though.
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alright so port down the middle/bottom of the box and than go up the back as high as I need?
I'd try to keep from making the 2nd bend at the bottom, but even if you need to, it shouldn't hurt anything. Just my personal preference.
and the upside down cone thing is a sub
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Alright, forward/back, same deal.
The BOLD is like xray vision, thin lines are the box. take the port in at the top, drop it down as far as you need. It may not be perfect, but in my mind, it would have better loading. I hope you can figure out the pic, it's kinda shitty haha
edit- And center the port in the box...pretty bad when I can't even draw straight lines on a computer.
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Hang on, I got an idea. Gonna try to figure out how to draw/explain lol. I take it you want sub up port forward?
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Just try to sell them something back. i.e. they try to sell you directTV, sell them dish network. lol
That shit is fun...did that back in the day with the phone company.
I like to yell at my "kids" or kill the neighbor or just start screaming about nothing to see their reactions...
Or, I do this a LOT--Don't answer unknown numbers lol.
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Copper wire conducts better than a steel frame, so full 0g runs will be better in theory. Personally, I think if you have the extra wire available, do runs from front to back, AND ground to the chassis in back. If not, as long as you find a good spot to ground in the back, it will work.
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Well, I could be wrong (it has happened a few times lol) but maybe the BP switch will reverse the filters...??
So the LPF would act as the HPF (set at eighty) and the HPF would be LPF (at 4k)...just a guess, like I said, I honestly don't know.
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Always good to see Mustang builds. By the way, those are Saleen wheels, not Cobras
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kinda.
Switching head units in a oldcar?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Run new wires from the new deck. run your constant 12v to the battery, switched 12v to the ignition or fusebox, and ground the...ground. then run new speaker wire to the speakers.
But if you really want to hack the factory wiring apart, find the plug that goes where the "1234" is on the pic. 1 is your factory ground ( I'd suggest NOT using this ground though, just ground to some metal behind the dash) 2 is your switched 12v/ignition wire, 3 is illumination/dimmer (if the new deck has it)and 4 is your constant 12v.
#5 would be the power antenna, 6 is the speaker wires, but I'd just run new wire personally.
So, really, I'd say just rewire all of it. That way you are 100% positive it will work. lol Good luck!