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Lost Legacy

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Posts posted by Lost Legacy

  1. Yes the amp can be run from what ever head unit you currently have as it accepts a high level input (which is tapping into the signal from the speaker wires). Or if the stock unit has RCA preouts then those can be used.

    Another option is using a unit like a 3sixty.3 or the likes, to run the amp.

    i personally would suggest using a monoblock amp to run the subs. This will allow you more wiring options as the amp will likely be stable at 1, 2 and 4ohm loads.

    Going off the RMS of the amp you stated, the subs will be way under powered also.

    Yes the amp will work with the subs put simply, but there are better options.

    Also using that amp to wire the subs will mean if the musics bass tones are not centred then one sub will pump harder than the other because each sub will have to be wired to the right channel and the left channel independently.

    Subs 2ohm coils, wired in series to 4ohm will see 170WRMS each from that amp.

    Both subs can't be wired to a 4ohm load which is stable for bridging on that amp, which is why i suggested a monoblock amp (or you could use 4 channel amp and bridge front and rear outputs).

    I hope that helps a bit, even though i have wafted on a bit. Can't simplify all my thoughts at the moment....too late at night for me haha :P

  2. Going to have to think over this stuff while i'm at work now. running out of time....

    Thanks Ray for suggesting class A/B, will pop into my local car audio shop in the next few days and have a chat to see what gear is easily accessible in the class A/B range that isn't crap quality. of course...

  3. Use an A/B amp and dont wire low if you want great control.

    Slew is the main thing to look at.

    "they" say a dampning factor of 80 is all that is needed. Although i disagree with that statement.

    What is slew measured in so that i can find in/try to find it when searching through amps?

  4. Have come across this term a few times now and finally looked into.

    From what i have found it is about the control of a loudspeaker, so as to have accurate sound reproduction.

    (i could go into more detail of what i found but wont do that unless needed)

    Is anyone on here knowledgable in the area?

    I'm eager to learn. Want to know how much of a role it plays in accurate sound reproduction. I love the very very quick double kickbass of metal music, but never can get each note seperated.

  5. seems like you wouldnt really need the eq, does your headunit not have a good eq.

    i'm assuming you could use a 2 female to 1 male y connector to put the front and rear channels together but i dont know if that would work

    EQ has 5V output rather than 3V (or 2.5V can't remember off top off my head) that the headunit has, which is why i want to continue using the EQ, that and the fact i like having 7band instead of 3band.

    I have mine running off of the 'front' output off of my H/U. Then from the EQ to my 4 channel amp for my fronts and rears. I kept my subs on the RCA output of the H/U though because I actually had a loss of power going to my sub-stage when I ran the RCA's off of the EQ.

    Sweet, thats how i thought it would be done as Front should have no filter pre put on it. (if that makes sense)

    Strange that the sub-stage was losing power when running through EQ.

    I'll probably end up testing that on my gear now haha.

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