mako22
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Posts posted by mako22
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so there is no problem in the diameter..its all in the box and the tuning of the box.?
Yes. a ported box has an increase in the amount of output within about 5-10Hz of the tuning frequency. So if you tune your box in the low 30s the lower notes, like under 40Hz, will come in louder, but you won't hit a 50Hz note as loud as you will with a box tuned for 40Hz.
I will give you an example. In my friends explorer I did an interchangeable port. When we had the 36Hz port in the box it hit the high bass note in the song "put on" (55Hz) like crazy, but it had nothing on the lowest note (28Hz) then we put in the 32Hz port and the low note came in much better, but the high note wasn't nearly as intense anymore.
So if i want to hit both notes i need a box tuned at 34Hz? i understood what you said but im trying to find a solution where i can be happy hitting both notes (55Hz and 28Hz) really good. or does something like that not exist?
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so there is no problem in the diameter..its all in the box and the tuning of the box.?
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hi guys...im just wandering what cind of sub diameter would be the best to pick up low frequencys in songs?
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The Rockford will put out more then rated... as do all Rockford Fosgate amps. They come with a birth sheet to tell yo exactly what they put out.
So you mean to say it might produce 80rms insted of 60? i dont understand....
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there is no reason you have to use all the power of the amp so like stated before dont turn the gain up as much and then you'll be fine and wont give the speakers the max power of the amp
ok sounds fair enough..but since im cinda a noob i dont know how not to turn the gain up or down..so if anyone has the cindness and the time to try and explain im all ears..thanx alot..
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power wise you should be fine just adjust the gains and crossover to fine tune it for the 6.5 and 5.25 i have done 125 per set in the past and no problems..
thanx alot for the reply...so you think ill be alright with the 5.25s and the 100rms? plus a good brand so i hear so i dont think ill have a problem.
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hey guys..so i was thinking, instead of getting an RF T400.4 to power a pair of T1652-S and a pairof T152-S i was thinking pf this http://www.audiosavings.com/products/4-Channel-Car-Amplifier/HIFONICS-HFI100.4-800W-4-CHANNEL-CAR-AMPLIFIERAMP-KIT/HFI100.4---XK4B2.aspx.
the T1652-S can handle 100rmsat 4 ohms and the T152-S 75 rms at 4 ohms. the RF produces 60rms at 4 ohm so im not gonna get the full power out of the 6.5's either the 5.25's so i think im gonna get the hifonics amp i liked just above whitch poduses 100rms at 4 ohms, but my problem is if the 5.25's will handle 25rms more that they were designed to hanle?
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i dont think im gonna get the t600.4 cause the money is alot...!
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If it were my car them bishes would take em and like it.
lol...so what do you think on switching the amp idea?
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Well if you haven't purchased anything yet i would recommend getting the same speakers for front and rear and run it on a more powerful 4ch amp or a good 2ch amp capable of 200w rms @2ohm.
options are crescendo's 125x4 - http://www.crescendoaudio.com/product.php?productid=17516&cat=249&bestseller=Y
Sundown sax 125.2 - http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/Sundown-Audio-SAX%252d125.2.html
These are just to show you the options but its up to you if you want to consider using them.
The options are both pretty good but the problem is that my rear doors wont take 6.5 they take 5.25 so therefor i cant get 2 sets of 6.5's so both the ideas go down the drain cause i dont wanna make panels eather.. thank you very much tho, the other thing i was thinking is that instead of an rf t400.4 i get the t600.4 with more rms at 4 ohms.
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skullz, ever meter a tweeter/woofer from a component set? you'll find that the woofer and tweeter of a 4ohm component set are 4ohms...the crossover has its own resistance (notice the resistors in there? among the caps and coils and such? take a look). moral of the story, he wants to get a 4ohm tweeter and woofer that is normally 4ohm at the crossover to be a 2ohm load. it cant be done reasonably, but if the tweeter and woofer were paralleled it would be 2 ohms, although you would destroy it pretty quick with no crossover in the middle.
ok so i should just leave it at 4 ohms and get 60rms out of each channel?
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yes, but it will be running off one channel and have no left right separation (so you wont get the power you want and itll sound weird)
so, basically, its a technical yes but its a stupid idea that wont work well. hook it up normal and buy the right equipment next time.
when you say right equipment what do you mean? I havent boughed anything yet.
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Double the speakers and run it parallel to the amp. So if you have one set of comps with a 4ohm load you'll now need 2 sets of comps wired in parallel down to 2ohms just like subs. You can't wire a set thats 4ohm down to 2ohm with just one set.
ok well i understood alil of what you said..but i just wanna clarify. I'm gonna get a pair of rockford fosgate T1652-S and a pair of T152-S and a rockford fosgate T400.4. Now i only want the T1652-S to go down to 2 ohms cause the amp gives 100rms at 2 ohms and the speakers are 100rms each, plus the crossovers have a bi-amp mode where i connect the speaker and the tweeter to the ceossover and then i just connect one negative and one posetiveto the amp (so from 2 + and 2 -, i get 1 + and 1 - to connect to the amp) now im only talking so if i say something dum dont say that im a noob cause i just wanna learn. I was thinking of connecting the speakers and the tweeters to the crossoves and then just connect the negative from one crossover to the negative of the other crossover then the possetive of the one crovver to the posetive of the other crossover and then connect that to the amp, and i just wanna ask if that can be done.
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correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't that only apply if it's a dual voice coil? not many 6x9's I know have dual voice coils? I could be wrong here though
This is how you wire speakers at 2 ohms...
...No they dont need to have a dual voice coil. just read the instunctions below and if you have any questions feel free to ask1
Find out the ohm rating of your speakers. This is printed on the back of the magnet in almost all cases. Most car audio speakers are 4 ohms, and you'll need two 4-ohm speakers to create a 2-ohm load for your amplifier.
2
Cut two lengths of speaker wire. The wire should be long enough to reach from your amplifier to the first speaker, and then from the first speaker to the second speaker. Strip the insulation off of the ends of each piece of speaker wire so that there is 1/2 inch of bare wire showing.
3
Connect the first piece of speaker wire from the amplifier to the first speaker. To connect the wire, unscrew the terminals, slip the wire into the terminal and tighten down. Be sure to connect the positive terminal of the amplifier to the positive terminal of the speaker, and the negative terminal of the amplifier to the negative terminal of the speaker.
4
Connect the second piece of speaker wire from the first speaker to the second speaker. As in Step 3, be sure that the positive terminal is connected to the positive terminal, and the negative terminal to the negative terminal. What you've done is an example of parallel wiring. Parallel wiring drops the impedance of the speakers in 1/2, so your two 4-ohm speakers now act as a single 2-ohm load.
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hi gyuz im gona buy a pair rf's t-1652-s for my front doors, and i wanted to find out if or how i could wire the speakers up to the crossovers (with the tweeters of course) at 2 ohm in stead of 4.
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He's from another country...he speaks some damn good English if you ask me
Ye im half greek and half english so im fluent in english and in the greek language, but im not that good at spelling..
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hi im gonna buy some rf's t1652-s and some t152-s and i was wondering what cind of wire should i buy to connect them to the amp.
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Not the m4a, the m4, and yes 4k rms. You would need a dual 2 ohm sub at the least, depending on your imp rise, you may need lower in order to get max power out of the amp you select. The m4 is 1 ohm stable. Talk to xs power on here, they can let you know. I wouldn't use optima.
because i dont think i have the knowlage to fix a system like this, i just know some basic stuff, im thinking of going to a shop and geting it done by a proffesional i just wanna know if he is gonna be takin my money and not doing what i want.
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You can feed that sub 4k daily,
nice, you mean 4k rms right? and what cind of wiring 2ohms 1ohm? and i cant get XS here i can get optima tho. and how bout the DD M2A, the M4A costs 1577,95€ here in greece. i dont have that much money for an amp alone.
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Depends on how loud you want it, I would do an aq2200 or 3500 and the battery requirement would depend on if you are going to music play this or just burp and also which of those two amps. Your question is way to OPEN to answer accurately.
well of course i dont want to burp! i am a base junkey like alot of ppl in this forum, i wanna hit very hard without damiging the sub or the amp(i live in greece (digital designs, spl dynamics, RF, KICKER and stetsom) and i dont get AQ here so if you could think of another brand that i can get here in greece that would be great). now how many wattsRMS can i feed the sub(cause like alot of ppl i know feed their subs more watts than the manual says)?
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When your system draws more amperage than your alternator and starting battery can support is when you need a second battery.
I was thinking of getting a Digital Design 3518
Series 3500e
Voice Coil Diameter 3"
Magnet Weight 240 oz
Power Handling RMS/Peak 1200/4800
Suspension Travel 80 mm
Nominal Impedance D2.0 Ohm
DC Resistance D 2.0 Ohm
Model 3518e
Rec Box (cubic ft) 6
Port Area (sq in) 100
Port Length (inches) 20
Woofer Diameter 18"
Free Air Resonance 27 Hz
Sensitivity 93 dB
Shipping Weight 42 lbs
With these specifications someone who knows (not me..
) could suggest a proper amp for this sub and if i would need a second batterie to support my amp (i already have some RF'S T1652-S and T-152-S and an RF T400.4) -
hi guys, i just wanna ask if anyone knows when i need a second battery to support my amp without damaging it. its just theoritical, i havent got a system yet in my car and i'm just doing some reserch.
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bingo, page 4 of the manual. tells you about bi-amp crossover wiring (if you want to hook up 2 amps per crossover). to switch the crossover to use 1 amp, take the cover off the bottom of the crossover, and flip the BI-AMP switch to OFF and then hook up amp channel to the TWT (tweeter) input. and thats it.
thanx alot for your help now i deffinatly think im gonna get them...
now if you have time one last question...the amp im gonna get gives:
60 Watts x 4 @ 4-Ohms
100 Watts x 4 @ 2-Ohms
200 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohms Bridged
2-Ohms x 2 Bridged Stable
the t1652-s are rated at 100wattsrms and the t152-s are rated at 75wattsrms each how do i hook up the t1652-s at 2 ohms?
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as i just said, yes. 4 crossovers 4 channels.
ye but each crossover has 2 negative and 2 possative outputs...and the amp has 4 possative and 4 negative.
these are the speakers and the crossovers i wanna get..plz take a look and tell me. btw the 2 sets have the same crossovers.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?item_id=112903&locale=en_US
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) could suggest a proper amp for this sub and if i would need a second batterie to support my amp (i already have some RF'S T1652-S and T-152-S and an RF T400.4)
Kenwood Excelon KDC-X494
in Head Units-Processors and Eq's
Posted
Hey guys. i just baught one too but i havent installed it yet cause i dont exactly know how. If you could help me i would be morw than greatfull! OrionStang if you could give me some pointers on how to do it i would appricheate it!