wolfpack
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Posts posted by wolfpack
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I have a little Lincoln 110 flux core welder i got from home depot for 250. works pretty good so far.
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get a 12 volt relay, pin 30 goes to battery, pin 85 & 86 go to high beam ( doesnt matter which one goes to pos. or neg), pin 87 goes to low beam (positve if its positve trigger, negative if its neg trigger.)
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they'll be fine as long as you dont use high wattage ones.
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Its 4.29 in my town and we fucking make the gas. The trucks literary have to drive 20 minutes from the refinery to my town. It should be hell of a cheaper. A 3 hour drive to a city that doenst make it and its 20 cents cheaper.
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ok, and earlier n8 told me about how bad the snaps in the back are and how they basically break no matter what(16yr old plastic). so how would i reattach the panels that do that?
epoxy the broken plastic back in place and hope for the best.
if epoxy doesnt work use self tappers if you dont mind screw heads showing.
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How do you keep the inner plastic panels from rattling, its not really because of the metal flexing, its the pressure in the back from the port up. The B-pillars, back of the cab that i think has 4x6s in it, sound like there slapping on certain hard hitting notes. If i have to take them off thats fine but i want to know a little before i go into it.
put sound deadening on the panels and the metal behind them will stop the rattle.
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either metra or scosche websites will tell you what size they are. most ford suvs and trucks have either 5x7/6x8's
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6010 would be the choice if your doing what he made the video for, off roading, something breaks. 7018 would not be good because all your base metals would be very dirty, and if you off road a lot they might be rusty in certain areas. I love welding with 6010 because it so more forgiving than any of the low hydrogen rods. i wonder how it would weld with more than 3 batteries?
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thread jack, but is it ok to do a big 3 on a stock alt? someone told me stock alts have pre set ground and power wires and its not ok to change them unless you buy a h/o alt. is that true? personally i think its bs
ive done it many times with no problems, some vehicles you have to leave the stock charging wire on. my friends 98 durango charging wire ties into his starter wire so we just added 1/0 to it with 1/0 grounds. it may make your lights dim worse cus after doing the big 3 the wires are no longer restricted so it allows more power to flow through.
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some vehicles have a separate ground on the alt. just find your charging post. if your alt has a few different posts just use a dmm to find the charging post.
if it is a seperate ground should i use 0 gauge for it??
it wouldn't hurt and sometimes it's necessary.
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some vehicles have a separate ground on the alt. just find your charging post. if your alt has a few different posts just use a dmm to find the charging post.
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yea they shape the tint on the outside, but put it on the inside. i have seen tint go on the outside but that was on some lambo.
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Its so fucking cold here i go to my car to go home and there is three cracks each over a foot long.
In case you're wondering, its -22 here
There are places here where that is considered warm. A couple hours away from me where they have highs in the -38 degrees. Dashes haven't cracked....so weird. Not saying you're wrong, just saying I have vehicles that sit in -50 average in the winter time with 0 issues.
hell yea, up here it gets fucking cold. for all the years ive been up here ive never had any issues with anything cracking or breaking because of the cold.
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that is a horrible wiring job. i built a astro van with 5 yellowtops with 4 18s that hit 154 with a much better wiring job. your just too lazy to clean it up, as the last guy said use zip ties or even wire loom. zip ties are like 10 bucks for 100 zip ties.
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Ive cracked foam surrounds from the cold. i dont play my system loud until my trucks interior is warm. granted i live in alaska so it can get really fucking cold. ive know people who've cracked or damaged rubber surrounds too. the rubber gets really stiff and snaps.
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I install HID's for a living, I do not recommend 55w kits, they can damage the housings, and they are more blinding to oncoming traffic. if you live in an area with snow a 35w 8k set is great. if you want blue go with any 6k 8k or 10k kits, just depends on how blue you want. 12k starts to get purple and in some places is illegal. the lower of the color temperature is the brighter the light is. I have 6k low 8k high with a 20" Rigid Industries LED fog light and I have no problem seeing at night in Alaska. its like daylight when i hit my high beams.
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their really simple. just make sure you don't wire it in series, if you do you'll be running 24 volts, thats a bad thing for most amps and subs
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ive downloaded it but i cant play it idk whats wrong maybe u can help me
i had no problems, got in my itunes and it works just fine. only one song didnt download. other than that i had no problems
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i have a MTX 81000d, and I cant find a bass knob for it. Ive looked on crutchfield, sonicelectronix and i cant find it. does anyone know where i could find one?
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i got mine at lowes and i really like it, easy to use and accurate
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my friends focus' rpms randomly jump up to about 5k while driving, the car doesn't speed up or anything, just the rpms, its like it gets stuck in 2nd gear. her engine light hasn't come on, and my ODB 2 code reader doesn't pick up anything. the car is an automatic. any ideas whats going on?
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painting interior paneels
in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!
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plastidip is easy to use, no need to sand, just clean it and give 4-5 coats. the thing i like about plastidip is if you dont like it you can just peel it off.