victor8881
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Posts posted by victor8881
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I was noticing that last time I was scoping the car VIC.
The deck is ISO'ed to the car (meaning) its bolted to the dash.
Only thing I can think of is that it is resonating the HU.
You own an IPOD, USE IT.
OR pick up a pioneer 4200ub it has the same voltage output, and gives you usb for your ipod, instead of that stupid headphone jack.
I thought about upgrading my HU, but I've already installed a 7 band EQ for sound adjustments, and a 2 channel 9volt line driver for the voltages increase.. This Poineer 4200ub will only give me the USB and the 3RCA output... is this worth changing out my HU for?
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Its your HU, the bass if making it skip, it happens to alot of us at a certain point of upgrading, so you either have to get a better HU with better anti skip, or go with Ipod/USB.
yeah true... ipod can play all day long no skip.. I thought my amp was cutting out, but I'm confident that this isn't the issue. Probably low end sony HU unit and the fact that I'm using cheap blank cd's... It seem like the littlest scuff on these cd's causes major issues.
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Yes...bass can make your HU skip.
The fact that your bass and volume are all the way up, on top of running dirty MP3s, are probably clipping your shit so bad it cuts out. MECA CDs have clean signals and that's probably why it only happens on your burned ones.
LOL I don't play Limewire music in my car stereo! These burned cd's are directly from itunes that came from mastered store bought cd's or mp4 bought from itunes.
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I don't know if these are just my blank cd's that suck balls, but I burn cd's and when I'm maxed out on bass and volume sometime randomly the cd will start to skip. This has happen at least 4 times now with 4 different burned cd's. I used a Meca cd for a drive by test which was not my burned cd and it didn't skip on me. the cd's I burn don't start skipping right away.I'll play them for a week or so and then out of the blue they start to skip. Can loud music and big bass make your HU skip a cd while playing?
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i dunno if your electrical is gonna like the double load, but sub should like the extra power
Yeah thanks James for the advise. I want to hit the Hayward Meca show this May in the same class, but score a little higher. took third with 141.2 figured if I can boost this up to 143,144 I should be able to place first this time.
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honestly your bxi never see's rated output the 1600 puts out roughly 1200rms so upgrading to the 2200 AQ amp is going to be a big upgrade...if you only drop to 13.6 currently thats more then sufficient and you wont till a diff from 13.6 to 14 flat. but you WILL drop more with more power
So if I just take this Hifonics out and place this AQ in I should see a noticeable increase without burning this AQ sub?
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DJ owns AQ btw lol
Tell me about, I just looked back at my last three emails I sent him, each time I called him "AJ". Two letter name and I screwed it up! Good looking out...(mental note)
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yesterday i was asking around about the same amp and k3n12ock said that he has an AQ2200 powering his HDC3 15, and he only has his bass turned up half way because hes afraid it will smoke if he does any more, im personally just gonna get the AQ1200 but thats because im on a budget.
I spoke to AJ the owner at Audioque, before I even made this an option, because I felt the same way thinking I might blow the sub. AJ told me the 2200.1 amp is a perfect match for one HDC3 15. Said that my electrical system needed to support the 150amp requirement of the amp, and if my electrical system could support the amp it would do just fine. that 1200.1 is pimp though too. I'm running a Hifonics BXi 1610. it's give me 1500.1 at 1ohm when I'm at 14.4 volts... I'm dropping at max volume to 13.8-13.7 and I still scored a 141.2 in a trunk with no pull down seats!
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yes you will see a good improvement...upgrade that electrical though!!
I'm the james who fused your amps last week
upgrade to all quality 1/0 wire and get an alternatorYeah I know I keep tossing this up in the air...bigger amp, or keep what I've got and get that alternator and electrical wiring beefed up and crank out more from what I've got now. If I'm hitting 13.6 at long notes, if I can get this back up to a stable 14. I would hear noticeable improvement from this alone right?
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Running a 1610D. Hifonics BXi to my HDC3 15, which provides me around 1400-1500 watts. If I switch to a AQ 2200.1 amp which provide about 600 more watts, will I see an improvement that will justified a 390 dollar price tag?
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Nutrisystem waste of money bro! if your going to go that route, just go to to walmart and get healthy choice meals... same idea, far less in month cost.
check out p90x.com get this... trust me follow the program, bust your ass and don't cheat yourself. I wouldn't be shocked if you lost 50 pounds in 90 days! I only wanted to lose 15 pounds and up my core strength for a police academy physical test.... in 30 days barely on the diet program just working out with the program, I lost 15 pounds! by the 5 weeks, I had to double up meals because I was getting too skinny. I stop the diet program after 8 weeks and just ate somewhat healthy and at the end of the 90 days I had lost 17 pounds of actual weight, but look like I added 15 more in muscle... was dope... the program is hard so it's something you have to go balls out and do your very best every day to get the results.
hope that helps,
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Have these speakers. clarity is money, tweeters are good, but very little midbass and these are not loud speakers. overall If you have the money I'd go a different route, but since you already own them, rock these speakers, beside the loudness( and this is what I consider loud)and low end midbass from the speaker, it's a kick ass speaker. Slump away!
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im looking at the following Hifonics amps: BXI1210D, BXI1610D, and BXI2010D. i need an amp to power 2 12" T1's. i heard Hifonics overrate their amps? but which amp will be a good match for my subs? open to any other amps, my limit is $200-260 on an amp. thanks.
Yes, Hifonics overate slightly. my BXi 1610D climps at 1500watts to be safe will say 1400. so 200 watts. Now, depending on the speaker ohms and how you want to wire them, 2010D should match up... this amp should fit your budget nicely, but look around online for deals or hit the Maxxsonics portion of this forum.
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Which xs battery would you recommend
Shuriken batteries are pretty good, very similar to Kenetik, but cheaper. When I was looking for batteries this brand name was given to me often, and if you look online or ask around this forum i'm sure you could find a killer deal on one or more....XS power over all is by far a better battery though if you decide to go that route.
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you got a account on stevemeadedesigns forum right? have you seen how many batteries and alts steve has?
I dont see how you have a account on here without knowing he has almost double the amount of batteries you just mentioned lol
6 is alot but not compared to some people on here
Your 100% correct I do not know what Steve has battery wise however, I can assure you that Steve is not running old recharged UPS truck batteries,I know that for a fact. That was my basic question, why go with UPS truck batteries and why so many? I'm thinking maybe cheaper than deep cycle car audio brand batteries? If he was correct and they did weigh 120 pounds a big KC battery weigh what 50-70 pounds. Of course I'm going to trip out over massive amounts of batteries. I'M A ROOKIE TO CAR AUDIO, when I see a stereo that has 6 huge ass batteries, let alone batteries I typical I would think are not used in car audio... a question I first thought was why? I also figured if he's using this when the car is turn on (mostly) then I figured more alternators and less batteries would be less weight added and work just as well... Again, didn't take in the factor that weight in car audio plays little to no determination on what is consider doable or not. Unless this is a daily driver, then probably not a great idea to add an extra 700 plus pounds.
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Umm, from the comments I guess "f**k me" serve me right! Again, as I state before I lack the electrical concept that goes behind a great system, if 6-12, or 102 batteries are needed to keep your system slumped out with stable voltage, then by all means rock out. From the little I've read prior to this forum I figured having more alternators would result in less battery(s) storage power need to stabilize a good voltage reading. Of course all the alternator power in the world won't help if your vehicle is turn off.
Now, can someone answer me why this person went with UPS truck batteries instead of deep cycle KC2400 for example? I keep calling them UPS truck batteries because this is what he kept referring to them as. Mental picture, think of a KC2400 almost double it and this was roughly the size of this guys battery.
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Bare with me, I'm pretty new to car audio and electrical wiring and concepts. A very simple answer will do.
So the other day I meet this guy and he was showing how many batteries he had to for his system. No joke, this guy had like 6 120 plus AH HUGE UPS truck style batteries each weighing he said "140lbs each! I then ask him what was the reason for all the batteries. Before I knew it I block him out because he went into 45 minute, defcon-5 explanations on why and how he needed them. Non of it made any since. He said he was running dual alts. one stock at 110amp and another at 200amp.(took his word on it because he was a bit of a talker!) I've seen my fair share of well built system and horrible ones, but never have I heard of anyone that has 6 extra batteries, and even if they did have six 140 plus pound batteries.... from my understand, if this person would have added let say two extra 250 plus amp alternators instead of 6 big foot monster truck batteries, he would have been able to produce the same amount of results with less weight added to his car?? To me adding close to 1000 pounds of extra weight seem stupid, but, if it does the job efficiently, f**k Me for questioning his set up.Is this my ignorance speaking for lack of knowledge in electrical car audio concepts, or is this guy WAY OVER DOING IT WITH THE BATTERIES? LMFAO, I thought I was cool with my extra battery in the trunk... I guess I should take that shit to the next level and hit up a friend that works on 747 southwest jets and see if planes use batteries and if so, get a few of those bastards in my trunk... be like "yeah I'm running southwest airline batteries in my shit, no big deal!
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is there a pass through to the cabin?
No pass through... This guy that told me to turn my port around and fire it to the seat anyhow said that I could shave off some of the foam were the port is at so it has less to pass through to make for sound to make it into my cab... Not sure.. going to have to research this because this box is a bitch to take in and out of my trunk!
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lol exactly what i'm doing.
What are you doing cutting a whole in the seat and having the port fire through the whole in the seat?
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I drive a 2009 Nissan car... back seat does not come down(only removes completely)... the back wall of the trunk has a nice size hole cut in the metal... (looks like Nissan built the car for the pull down seat option, however I didn't pick this package up when I purchase the vehicle)Now to the question. my box and woofer and port is firing to the trunk lock... You can hear muffled sound and you can hear the tone difference once it hits the cab of the car. I was told by this ledgie box builder guy that if I turn my sub box around so that my sub and port is facing my back seat this will give me an over all better sound in my system... The way he described what to do sound logical, but what does everyone here think?
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alright so i am planning on setting my gains with a multi meter once i install everything and then take it to a shop to have them fine tune everything... now the only problem is the two local shops that are like 5 mins from me do all of the tuning by ear and there is a shop about 40 mins from me that uses an o-scope. what should i do?
Think of your amps much like a tattoo you might get. If the artist you go to uses top of the line tattoo machines is this person going to produce top of the line artwork...Maybe. Are you going to take your chances on maybes? I would find an installer that is WELL known for there professional skills, make sure they are who they say there are and do a little research. Then just take your shit in for tuning. Let them do what they do and if they ear tune it, who care as long as everything sound clean. If you want check out Ray from Audio Innovation on here this guy knows his shit... find a person like that to tune your amps!
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Its always good to use those rubbers
LOL, better double bag it, I don't know where these amps beeen!
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your fine unless you're pushing 5-30kW but I'd put the rubber bushINGS between your amp and the box if for nothing else it'll help keep it cooler
30,000 watts, LOL I haven't Steve'd out yet! I'm running a baby 1900 watts all together. I'll do the safe thing and rubber up... thanks for the input.
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yes sir that is correct
Either way rubber or not, mounting it there is not going to cause it any harm to my amps? I spent my break looking at some of the other post and I read a few places were people blame the vibration from the amp being mounted on the box for causing the amp to fail or shut down. Want to make sure I'm safe.
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upgrade to all quality 1/0 wire and get an alternator
fat mat
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Fat mat is decent, not going to bash it, but it is nothing more than peal n seal with a logo printed on it. I bought a quart of liquid second skin dampener, shot my trunk lid with it, and then layered over it with peal n seal, got great results...far better than just the fat mat alone, plus I saved money! Your call though.