Freshman6969
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Posts posted by Freshman6969
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to add to the SQ of the Neos...so far they have been my best sounding to me...ive had Level 4s, Level 5s and Neos all in the same box and the Neos take the win on loud and SQ. Ray Farmer at NSPL world finals even said that my Neos were some of the best SQ 18s he ever heard aside from the LMS Ultras.
i think the motor force helps AWESOME with a nice tight punchy bass but allows to focus on low notes just holding their tone as well.
you gained like .3 with a direct swap from level 5's right nick? ive heard two diffrent vehicles aswell with pretty close setups, one with neo 18's and other with lvl 6 15's, now 18's, and there both pretty damn close, nicks to me sounds a little cleaner, no offence brandon, but on the other side brandon gives me a little more kick in the chest, dont get me wrong chodes gets me pretty good too, just my .02
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i think you need an 8ohm cross over
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have a good one rusty
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I don't think thats what he was asking.
thats what it seemed like in my head :/ oh well i tryed
i mean if you mean the math behind it thats a whole nother thing
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sealed boxes tend to have a better range when playing music, hip-hop, trance,house,classic,country,etc...
ported boxes can be tuned to a certin freq. in order to maximize a specifc type of music, ported also tends to get louder, and move more air
sealed boxes tend to be smaller, ported tends to be bigger
in comps youll rarely see a sealed wall or sealed setup in general, due to the fact its really hard to get it a high score on the meter, but one guy off the top of my head that did 160s(?) with a sealed clam would be randy, or assman
im pretty sure that was his sealed setup in the astro
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BUT by strapping amps, the MAIN advantage is you are running a higher impedance, so total output current is lower and output voltage is higher, current kills!!! Voltage is a hugh PLUS!!! If you want me to explain it further I can, but that is the biggest benefit honestly.
please do, i'm debating whether or not to strap my amps
this. Were going to try it both ways in my next setup but im interested to know.
create a new thread for it, then sticky maybe, im intrested as well, knowlage is POWER!!!!(pun intended)
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correct me if im wrong, but youll see more rise when you strap compared to when you use a single amp, or a single amp per woofer
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lvl 4 18 xl upgrade
also is rusty still stocking "old" recones after the new stuff comes out?
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another question for you...lol
do you think id see more preformance from running the back batts straight off the alt, or off the front batt? i have it now as, alt-front batt, alt-back batts, - off the front batt to the neg on the back batts, so 1 run pos off the alt, 1 run neg. off the front batt, and a ground in the back too
havent had the chance yet to pull the alt out and check the ground, ill be doing this within the next day or two
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upload to photo bucket..
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im pretty sure sacket has one for sale...
The 2 he had access to sold last week
try asking for neo motor
Ill have to ask rusty when I talk to him next but last I remember hearing the price of Neo doubled from a year ago but losing weight would be a huge plus for me. That lvl6 motor is plain sex in my eyes lol
they dont, or wont make them anymore iirc, due to the doubling of price, so say if it was 2grand a woofer last year its 4 grand now, to much money
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i keep it about 6 if not more, any closer imo youll just be causing cancelation
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mine does the same thing, try reprogramming the tach wire, hold down the valet switch wile the car is on(within the first 5 seconds you start the car) let the led turn a solid color, then turn the car off, do you have a bypass? rather, whats the make model year?
second idea to find out what the problem is....if you leave the key in the car does it remote start fine after sitting for a few hours? if its that then its the bypass
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its just games local to my machine, how do i go about checking if all my drivers are up to date?
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fml, turned that off too, same shit, its fine for about 15-30 sec. then it lags for about 5, then its back to normal
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ur pc is 1000 years old runing something its not meant to run what do expect
when we were at school i was playing everything just fine, now that im home and have nothing to do when im not out im playing bullshit games to pass time, now they dont work after i reinstalled, its driving me nuts, lag ftl, i played wow for roughly a little over a year on this computer and graphics card, ram, etc, i even played a for a day on win. 7 and it was working flawlessly, only lag being the internet
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i set mine same as yours, nothing -.- this shits driving me nuts
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how do i optimize it for every setting? and i just did that, still the same thing
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trade for level 4's? two are working d2's, other 2 are moter+basket, level 4's arent cutting it anymore
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so after cleaning out my comp. manually a month or so ago, i realized i deleted some shit so some programs wouldent open, i was running windows 7 at the time aswell, so i said alright ill just reinstall windows again NBD, got bored bought 2 games off amazon, and both where really laggy, it would work fine for a few seconds then start being choppy again, so i was like wtf, contacted amazon, aswell as the game devopers they dident know, downloaded the newest driver for my grafics card off nvidas site, its the GE 8500GT, now when i downloaded hard trucks(always loved those games) its fine then studders for about 5 seconds then goes back to normal, that happens every 20-30 seconds, the fucked up thing is i played WoW (all the way up to litch king) perfect, no lag sept for internet, graphics where great, no problems, about 2 days prior to reinstalling windows i was playing the sims 2, so something happend from before i reinstalled to after, its not the game its the computer, so annoyed
help!
god im a thread whore latly
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Most parts house testers can't pull enough load to properly test high output units.
You are charging if your voltage is above battery resting voltage, and 13.5-14v is for sure charging. The most common problem I see is inadequate ground, followed by weak power storage (batteries).
The voltage dropping when the vehicle warms up is normal, that is why we have the AVBM set with the alternator cold, it prevents overcharging.
You should have 1/0 cables directly from the alternator to the battery under the hood for charge and ground using the lugs we provided. We provide properly sized solid copper lugs to prevent problems with your ground and charge connections.
The ground should be run directly to the battery, not to the engine, body or frame, directly to the battery under the hood.
You posted in the thread by our friend from Panama, sounds like a similar problem and you will most likely find inadequate ground or a bad battery. Properly installing the ground resolved his issue.
This thread: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/127374-something-wrong-with-my-mechman/page__st__60
Disconnect all of your batteries, fully charge them and load test them. Note the voltage after charging and after load test. Then let them sit disconnected overnight, check the voltage again. All should be within .1-.2v of eachother.
Be sure you have the unit properly grounded as instructed.
alright im pretty sure i got it down to a bad ground at this point, when i actully go and pull my alt and redo everything ill post here how it turned out, if im still having problems ill call
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O.o never heard of it, i must just be a
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150s out a trunk is a BITCH, youll need alot more power, and an alt, seal it off from the trunk, etc, its possible not sealed off but even harder then not sealing it off
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DC neo's ??
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
Posted
well maybe if you came up for ashow....