-
Posts
5244 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Freshman6969
-
-
in reality.....you CAN move it....how reliable its going to be....it really depends, as long as its attached to the frame( "waist belt" ) thats safe, sholder belt, im not so sure, i worked at a shop working on work vans and we did alot of seat belts, but they were mostly waist belts, we did the ocasional sholder belt but its a diff. situation in a car, i personally wouldent suggest it, just crop around it is going to be your best bet, you can always just make a beauty panel and hide half the seat belt to give it what your looking for
-
sa 8s or dc 8s or dd 8s
-
This will take the speaker wires from your head unit and make it into a clean rca signal for an amp. Probably because steve didn't want to touch the radio in the lex????
wrong, iirc, that lex is all data
well i just thought about it, he can still grab speaker wire from the back...but i like feeling smart
-
your rcas are just mixed up, simple fix
-
you have your rcas mixed up, pull your h/u and put the rcas for the sub amp to the SUB preout, i think on those models its just 1 input for sub if you have the pigtails, so use a y connecter or just use 1 rca
-
did i not say put it on a switch, which was the FIRST post...damn noone reads anymore i swear....id just use a switch personally insted of a relay, easier and quicker
-
mmmm, id move this to 18+ or get rid of it completely
-
btw anyone thats worked on any german car electrically knows its a damn nightmare, just figured id scare you a bit
-
im just guessing you have the bass way up there and trying to play at loud volumes, i dont think youll see to much of a change just by changing speakers, try messing with the settings on your h/u, get a sub for the bass fill in, me personally i keep my doors crossed at 100-125hz, thats with simple co axes tho, just try messing with that first before you go and spend more money, just my 2cents
-
if you cant figure it out just grab a test light and start testing wires, and keep a 9v handy for speakers, unless theres an amp that just makes it a pain sometimes
-
pretty sure its red to the amp pos and black is ground, then toss it on a switch, my guess
-
thats what backup camaras are for
-
this is why i always take pics that are dated with shit working, vids aswell, helps protect you down the road if this shit happens
-
LPF filters out everthing above that point, meaning if you set it at say 80hz, it will not play 81hz+
HPF filters out everything below that point, meaning if you set it at say 300hz, it will not play 299hz and down
-
wheres the mic mounted? is it plugged in?(stupid question but ive seen it) have another phone or a buddy standing outside the car and trouble shoot that way, mess with the h/u settings, 99.9% of the time mounting it on top of the a-piller works the best, either that or on the steering wheel but thats a bitch to do
thanks dude that was the problem looks like i need to find a microphone for it and im good thanks everyone for the suggestions
wait wait wait, you dident have a mic to begin with?...........LOL....anyway, you can find them pretty much anywhere, you MIGHT get lucky if you go to a local shop, sometimes people will buy the bt unit and not want to mic, who knows lol
-
wheres the mic mounted? is it plugged in?(stupid question but ive seen it) have another phone or a buddy standing outside the car and trouble shoot that way, mess with the h/u settings, 99.9% of the time mounting it on top of the a-piller works the best, either that or on the steering wheel but thats a bitch to do
-
so its just an enhancer? in other words in interupts the signel then throws it out even stronger?
my question is, what about clipping? do you have to set this a certin way? or is it just set it to what you feels right?
edit: after reading into it a bit more, it seems to me that this is pretty much a secondary crossover that enhances the signal
Edit 2: i feel like this would be really nice for low power/budget systems with amps that dont have crossovers, i dont see it being to significant in the mid-high power systems seeing as its a minute gain if any, aswell as i dont see any use in a secondary crossover, because if its not spot on, your whole thing gets fucked up, correct?
-
reprogram, smash some buttons, turn the key, look at some lights, scratch your head, scratch your nuts, and shrug
-
take it back and have them reprogram the moduale, do you know if they ran a tach? or if its tachless? tachless usally causes issues like that, its one of the two im sure of it
-
-
first off, you dont need to fuse grounds, second drop the distro block for the 1000.1D's just get 0-4g reducers, itll lower the resistance in the line and allow your amps to get a tad bit more power(thats just the way id do it personally, to each there own, itll also be cheaper)
third, you CAN do the cut off switch, but i personally like using the PAC LC1 bass knob, its an inline rca bass knob, i dont see why it wouldent work with two amps
and idk where that 3rd run of power is going at the top, just seems to be gone lol
oh and run the 4 channels off the rear batt aswell
and me personally, i ground the back battery to the frame aswell as running a ground from the front, some do some dont, again to each there own
edit: im uploading a pic now of what the best way to do it is, minus the reducers for the ease
-
laquer thinner WILL take it off, but it has a high capability to eat right through the light, you just have to be smart about it, meaning not to much, after that wet sand
-
great dad right there
reminds me of kenny rodgers though LOL!
-
First Bass Race
in Competitors Corner
Posted · Edited by Freshman6969
i always start around half, working my way up, when i get to about 1X7.X i start to back down a tad, because it takes the meter a second to register, then once i know where im at i inch up, lost by .1 to chode one time..... in the LAST FUCKING MILI-SECOND....i was so mad...
bass race is fun though, its my favorite