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Posts posted by the808path
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The volt meter may be off by 2-3. But as u can see the volts hardly move at idle. And at around 1200 rpms it hit hits peak power. No external regulator. Straight factory swap out. When u say run things like they shouldn't , why would they suggest adding a something else to raise the voltage?? Am i understanding this correctly? For the record i don't use my alt to charge my batteries i have a charger for that. I use my alt to sustain the extra power I draw from my amps and the batts to cover what my alt cant provide. If I'm wrong then i'm wrong. Thats just the way I do it. Besides I'm slamming my sounds most of the time anyways. So theres no way my batts are even seeing 14.8 constantly.
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Also How can u Say he is crying about a product if its not what he expected? You buy something expecting to do exactly what it was made for and in car audio what isn't abuse? Almost 90 percent of ppl who swap to h/o alts do more then what their equipment is rated at. Is that called abuse?. You should know that already. Seems that you think the OP is a lil inexperienced and has abused his equipment..I'm not bashing on any company in particular. I'm pretty sure they make an awesome and proven product, all I'm trying to include in this thread is my insight and what I expect as I'm in the market for an alt myself and I'm "vigorously" Searching for as much information I can get before I make my decision. As for the Op I apologize for Posting excessively in your thread as I am not a NOOB, but as I post more into response I am certainly taking a step back. I hope you get your problem Squared out and please keep us updated.
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the part you dont under stand is that you will never see 14.4v out of any alt that is computer controlled no matter how badass it is.. it can be 1 million amps and you will still see it drop to what the computer tells it to charge to. also once the batteries are topped off/fully charged the alt will not charge at a higher voltage.. you need to train your batteries to sit at a higher voltage so the alternator can keep charging at a higher voltage.
When a battery is near fully charged the alternator will cease to put out sufficient voltage to charge the battery and the reading you will get from the battery probing method will simply be the voltage coming from the battery itself. In this case, you can simply leave your lights on with the car off for ten or fifteen minutes to drain your battery a little bit.
i seen so many bad battery review because of things like this. i have batteries with bad reviews of them swelling in a few weeks yet i have ran mine for 2 years and no issues. they keep holding voltage and keep holding a good charge.. at the end you choose how you want to run your equipment.. just dont cry to manufactures because equipment fail when they get abused or tricked to doing something it shouldnt..
I can prove you wrong heres a vid for you good sir and tell me if im wrong. Oh and enjoy
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i never said 10 volts.. 12.9 v i seen my expo charge at 12.9v with lights and AC on and after alt getting hot and idle.. 13.2 while driving.. thats with stock alt. HO alt and avbm 14.9 all the time since its not ecm controlled
another reason alts charge lower is because the battery is topped off.. if you keep charging it at higher voltage the batteries wont last long. 13.4 to 13.8 i ideal for longer battery life. thats why you dont buy amps rated at 14 v because most the times you will never see that power
Says who? I'm not going to argue with what your saying about op topic but withy our analogy at the end of each is kinda condescending. A lot of good companies in fact most rate their amps at 14. and nothings wrong with that if you have equipment you drop cash into to support it. Now with that being said wether you like or not ppl want their volts to stay up and its better for their amps. If a amp is rated at 12 thats fkn awesome and would be a better choice and prolly the one i would buy. OH and not all companies build their alts based solely on amp ratings
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just because you see 13.1 or even 12.9 doesn't mean you're not getting the 240a out of your alt.. they are selling HO alts rated at amperage not voltage. its like getting pissed at amp manufactures because amp wont give you rated power after impedance rise.. the reason why the ecm controls the voltage is to better your fuel mileage but you're still getting the rated amperage of the alternator just not at the voltage you want.. if you want higher voltage get the avbm and deal with seeing the light.
So if hes at 10v and still getting that 240ap from the alt its cool?
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Vehicle: 2012 Toyota Camry (4cyl)
Alt 240A Mechman
Big 3
Xs Power Battery D3400
It is my understanding that the newer Toyota cars are voltage regulated by the PCM. Therefor, I can't change the fact my system doesn't charge where I want it to.
My voltage after idle down is 13.7
When driving around 1700-200rpm the voltage is 14.0
This is with no stereo running.
When lights are turned on the voltage drops and then immediately returns to normal. However, when I turn on the rear defrost, it drops to 13.3 and does not raise back up until I turn it off. To me this doesn't sound right. Am I wrong for thinking that?
In a perfect world I would like 14.4 or close to it to achieve optimal performance from my amps.
First i would look at the alternator to make sure there isn't any signs of belt slip. Then I would look at the battery (check the resting voltage) and cabling to make certain the connections are clean and tight. If neither one is the culprit I would suggest a AVBM which WILL work on that vehicle. The AVBM will give you adjustment capability from 14-16 Volts on the S-series alternator
I have spoke with someone from mechman on a few occasions about this particular alternator and they are always quick to jump into belt slippage. I get insulted every time I hear it. I have used 2 different premium belts. That is not the case. I was also told by someone at Mechman that using this AVBM would cause my battery light to stay on in the car which I do not want. Posted that earlier.. Everything on this install is in tip top shape. Battery, wires, connections are all good. This was a last ditch effort.
Guess I'm just screwed then.
That sucks bro. All i can say is i like my alt to be internally set at 14.8 and for a 240a alt i would expect at least 170-190a at idle and max at 1200-1500k. Thats just me though. 1st off I would as someone suggested and try getting a second battery in there and see what happens with voltage, and make sure its topped off. (2) keep that damn rear defroster off!! and (3) see if Mechman would work out a deal with you for that "AVBM" he suggested which I honestly think should be discussed and/or included with the alt if you have a vehicle with that shitty psm before purchasing. Again my 3 cents.
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Thanks you some much for posting this i have the same motor as your camry and was wondering about this too. I personally think you shouldn't have to buy something extra to install to get what you expected from a high out out alt in the first place. So how much is this AVBM? just curious
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From what I read the prices are staying around the same as the current modelsWhat is the price going to be?
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I like the new look. Adding the fan was a cool idea. looking foward to seeing the rest of the line up for 2k12.
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Mines should be here tomorrow, can't wait to play with it
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Just ordered mine #100001924 . How do we get beenies or hats?
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Yes Zv3 15" and thanks
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I got my 15"Zv.3 subs in the mail and went opening them up and all I can say that these are sexy as hell. They look well built and pretty beefy. I can't wait to get some power to them and hear what they sound like. Great job Jacob/ Sundown
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I think he is asking about 4 15"s vs 3 18"s not 3 and 3.........I would go with 4 15"s
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Either companies you'll be fine when it comes down to the product give or take hear and there. I personally went with DC. I ordered it and got it in 5 days And i live in Hawaii lol. They always answered my emails not instantly but I always got a reply. With Mechman their response time on emails were a lot quicker and also their price was less and I know their alts are proven and thats what caught my eye, but they told me they were weeks of building then couple more for shipping and after months of deciding the last thing I wanted to do is wait another month or so going off what I was told so I took my chances with Dc and I am very happy with it. I never doubted their product just was a lil iffy of some of the stories people had with their experiences with them. Try calling derrick or kyle and order it through them instead. Good luck
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They are going out of here pretty quickly -- we'll probably have a temporary back-order on them due to the unforseen massive demand.
I'll have to count stock on Monday... 18s and 12s may already be back-ordered due to baskets.
Are the orders that are already placed going to be fufilled? Don't make a grown man cry, Jacob.
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Very nice score. Are those baskets being used with the other lines as well? they look damn sexy to me lol .
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Yup I excited for mines also
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So sexy..Thanks for the ass shot
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nice can't wait to hear/see it in action
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I would also go a lil smaller on the box since you are planning on going bigger on power anyways ( right? lol ). Plus when was it a good idea to over power subs in an oversized box?
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In this case you prolly would be in the good. I say do itNS-1 -$1900
2 3500's - ~$1200
I can get the ns1 for dealer price which is something completely different from these numbers.
Possible Problem with Mech 240A
in MechMan Alternators and 12v Accessories
Posted