Jump to content

kweezinarts

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    69

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by kweezinarts

  7. Grounding alternator

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by kweezinarts

    the alt is grounded through the engine block ground. and i dont see any reason to hook rear batt straight to alt.

    how many volts do you get at the batt with nothing on when your car is running?

    i have 4 runs of power from my alt going to the back and 1 from my front batt... along with 1 ground from my alt, and 1 from my front batt to the back, and i have my batts in the back grounded 4 times...... 1 per batt in the back.

    1 positive run per battery in the back.

    so you are saying my setup is wrong?

    i never said anything was WRONG, are you saying every system should be setup exactly like yours to make it RIGHT?

  9. I hope this is the last big 3 question I have

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted · Edited by kweezinarts

    Do I need to upgrade my engine ground if I'm leaving the factory wiring in place, and I'm running a run of 1/0 all the way back to my amp (soon to be second battery). I got to thinking about this after my ground run would've been just short of 40" long. I've only got 50ft of wire to get my upgrades done and two run all the way back. The vehicle would be in a 1998 ford f150.

    Thanks

    THE HOOK!!

    Im confused with what your trying to ask... The engine ground is the ground from the battery up front to the engine block...

    Not all the way in the back of your car...

    So for your big 3 its

    Batt NEG -> Engine

    Batt POS -> Alt

    Chassis ground -> Neg batt

    question would be, do I need to do ground upgrades if I'm running a ground cable to the back? I will eventually do it I just don't have any extra coin to get more wire.

    the big 3 is for your charging system not your amp directly.

  12. XS Power Battery Wattage Guide

    in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)

    Posted

    AH means nothing in car audio. AH is low amperage pulls for long periods of time.

    The D1200 will give you 1500watts of power as a starting battery for daily use and 3000 watts of power as a secondary battery for daily use. If you are going to compete or be doing demos, then you will want a bigger battery to help make up for the lack of alternator power.

    thnx for reply, i wont be competing at all but i will starting my car in below freezing conditions (damn upstate NY). would the D1200 still be ok to replace my Autocraft Titanium in winter?

  15. 0 Gauge Big 3 Bad?

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    the guy at my local stereo shop said that at their training sessions they were told only to double the size of your existing stock 3 and that the 0 guage Big 3 could be bad and fry something in your fuse box. He told me to do my Big 3 in 4 guage. Just got my Knu KCA 1/0 in today soo...

    Is there any truth to this?

    the voltage output of the alt and batt is the same how could this be? Save their ass on liability maybe.

  18. Single Sub Set Up Position

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    Ive tried all positions and you feel it more in the cabin if you put it vented firing back vents back, or if your back seats can drop do firing into cabin vents facing cabin and drop the seats...

    ive done same thing and to me with 60/40 split seats, driver side rear seat down, sub box on passenger side sub facing driver side and if ported port facing back to be loudest...

  19. kca vs kolssus

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    I personally say do it right the first time... Get the better cable because if and when you decide to upgrade you are going to want better wiring.. OFC can also handle more amps

    yeah i was thinking that maybe in the future i would upgrade because its been a year of slowly collecting the stuff i need to start it. so by the time i want to upgrade even more i figured id have the extra money. i dont see me getting anything more than the 2200 any time within the next couple years.

    i agree 100% with your statement but i just want to make sure that with this set up i wont have any noticable changes if i used the kca over OFC

    Look at mechmans website he's bow selling shok and I think if you email the email in the thread about it they have a SMD price for te OFC spools

    holy cow. 184.. how much cheaper do you think he would go.. i doubt if i can get anything better than the kca for <130 range that ill be able to afford it

    0 gauge

×
×
  • Create New...