jdubs
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Posts posted by jdubs
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I don't think your electrical will support above 14 volts steadily and your question is going to depend on many factors. My advice is don't do it. You plan on feeding two 1,000rms subs 5,000. If you have to ask, you probably don't have the experience with running subs to their max thermal abilities. Be safe and run lower. Maybe the DC 3.5
he said 4 not two
the subs should take the power, you just need to work on electrical
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watts.
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why compare apples and oranges? batcap 8400 is not the same type or price of battery.
I know this. But I'd love to see how a 1500 dollar battery compares to one that runs significantly less in price. I'm not sure that I completely understand your "type" of battery but I've heard nothing but good things about both companies
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I'm still looking for a XS D3100 vs a Batcap 4000 vid.
x2... or against the monster batcap 8400
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can you purcahse DD stuff online or is it just at dealers? Iwould like to look at purchasing one.
You can purchase directly from DD but only if there isn't a dealer near you. No online dealers
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This thread is making me consider reconing my 3515 to a 3518 w/ Carbon Cap & composite cone...
Lol, do it and let me know how it works out for ya
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their cones are 100% composite, they will not give at all like a paper cone will and can resonate.
and your dealer is ripping you on cones, they arn't cheap but they arn't 1500 each either
Nope, they run about 300-400 each w/ dustcaps. My dealer hooks me up better than that.
My comment before meant...
2 DD 9512G's with composite cones will cost me as much as 3 9512G's without cones, give or take a little bit.
their cones are 100% composite, they will not give at all like a paper cone will and can resonate.
and your dealer is ripping you on cones, they arn't cheap but they arn't 1500 each either
this..my direct quote from DD on a recone for a 9518 with composite and 8" cf cap was like $300-350 i'm pretty sure..maybe a little less or a little more.
Yup. Did you do it?
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you can throw like 10139190324902480 watts at it with the composite cone i'm pretty sure.
10139190324902480?!?!?!?! Oh damn. Lol. I plan on hooking up a pair of m3a's. You think it will take 6k+ then? and maybe one 9518 with a composite cone on 6k will be louder than 2 9512s without on 3k each? My dealer wants me to buy more woofers instead of doing an 18, he says it will be louder. I kinda think he just wants to get another 800 bucks out of me lol
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Hello everybody its been a while. I'm getting ready to recone my DD 9512 to either an 18 or I'm doing a pair of 12s. My question is... is there any performance gain from buying the carbon fiber/composite cones? 2 of them with the cones/dustcaps cost as much as 3 normal 9500s!
Thanks,
JW
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I'm not fighting, but if it is less dense than copper then how would it take longer to heat up? That doesn't make sense. You absolutely can use an aluminum coil for a daily mainly because in the car audio world a "long" time is longer than you'd think. How often do you play for more than 10 mins at a time at full tilt?
I will say again, alum coils are IDEAL for burps. Not only for burps, who would sell a product like that?
It doesn't heat up as fast because its dispersing heat as its gaining it. I weld aluminum and the amperage(and therefore heat) required is higher than that of other metals. However aluminum coils don't conduct as well as copper, and will need slightly more power to create the same amount of force as the copper coils. If your going to run well over rms, get the aluminum coils.
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haha I can't believe this one died lol
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From what I'm hearing, hertz and audison seem to be the best. The focal subs are very impressive too. Those brands are quite pricey though
**the best, as in better than mainstream. I'm sure you could spend a small fortune on Macintosh or Zapco amps and say thats better. Those brands are the best in the business as far as amplification, as far as I know. I've found that the best way to approach these situations is by going with what you can get your hands on.
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Sure ill try to make a video later today. I have a setting on my HU that says Sub W? Is that the Sub Level? Because with the settings I currently have I never really hear clipping just loud punching bass. But im going to back off on Bass boost and the Bass level on the headunit. I think my HU RCA is a 4V. How would it not be safe if im only pushing 140-170 watts on each speaker when the RMS for each one is 200-250watts?
Distortion and clipping blows speakers, not power. If its not loud enough, buy a bigger amp.
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Would be just fine. The amp pushes the sub, not the other way around, lol
lmao. Your nicer than me... I wish I woulda saw this first
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haha its all in the box bra ! i made a damn good box for my type argghh !! hah
I know... my box is actually designed for the 1500 and under series.. didn't know that at the time. Right now PWk is designing me a box and i have a 3000 watt amp coming... It should be alright
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I was gonna get mad if a single 12 in type R officially metered higher than my DD 9512... lol
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DD 3500. i don't really see the significance in hitting a 140 or 141. If it sounds good then be happy.
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either way... 3/4 gain is probably going to mean a ton of distortion and blown speakers. If you wanna go for it and prove people wrong, be my guest
. I had 1800 from my t1500 bd on the newer generation t2 and it would start to smell and get hot after enough play time. I'd hate to see what that t1 is doing on 1600 -
IIRC, the site has them rated at 12.x. The book probably has them rated at 14.4. I think I even remember seeing the M1b rated at 1500w @ 14.x but I can't remember where.
Either way I think that's right. The wattage on the site is just at a lower voltage.
EDIT: The site rates them at 11.9.
alright sweet thanks. Does anybody know if they are underrated or is what you see what you get?
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Hey guys I'm looking at the digital designs brochure and it shows different amp ratings then the site. Does anybody know if these amps come with a birthsheet or something?
The brochure shows-
M1b- 1500x1
M2a- 2300x1
M3a- 3000x1
M4a- 7000x1
and the site says the amps put out significantly less... are these 14V ratings or something? thanks, JW
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Hey I was wondering if anybody here had built a pwk designs box before? how'd it perform? I'm running a DD 9500G and just requested a blueprint... just wanna know if Its worth the 50 bucks plus materials to build the new box when I already have the DD recommended 12in full size high efficiency box
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i found a site that i wanted to come on here and ask about. you know, the personal experiences and whatnot. of course i forgot what the site was and i can't remember where i bookmarked it. (ipod, cell, this computer, etc.) i tried to google it but you never know who's gonna jerk you so i was wondering if anyone has a specific site they like to order from. i found this but it could be suspect. as everything is nowadays. http://www.discount-tires-2go.com/Page.cfm
btw, the size i need is 225/40/19
Find tires anywhere online and discount tire will usually (at least my store does) match the price.. usually when people buy from tire rack the price ends up around the same as ours after shipping anyways
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wow... I'd go see it lol
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What exactly do you mean? I am going by the manual from KICKER. It says to use a 3.25 cube box with a 3x13.25x14.5 port. I am using 2 L7 12's and i want to have only one port. How do I convert the port calculations for each sub to come up with one port? i am new to all of this so any help for the newb would be great. Thanks.
If the manual says 3.25 cubes per sub then you are looking for a roughly 6.5 cube box. Now, you need to figure out the port, and if that 3.25cube box includes the volume for the port (if it does, you need to figure out the volume the actual subs need to see.. prob closer to 2.5-2.75 cubes per sub... if that.) Then the port area should be around 12-16 sq in. per cu. ft, and the length needs to be calculated using the formula or with a box calculator. Also, that length is going to depend on where you want the box tuned to. Whatever port size you end up with, has a volume, you have to add that to your sub box volume, figure dimensions that work, etc.
Its a lot more work than just doubling port size or volume unfortunately. Theres a lot of people better than me on here with this but hopefully that helps a little bit
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Aero ports or slot?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
you have to buy aero's separate.. whereas you just have to use the wood you already have to make a slot port? That'd be my guess. Its just shear convenience.