Deschain420
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Posts posted by Deschain420
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If you can't find a replacement screen (or if the cost is prohibitive)...you could always plug a regular monitor into the back of the laptop (VGA cable etc.). You lose the mobility, but it's better than losing the machine entirely.
edit: Looks like they are available, and not super expensive. I hope it works out in any case.
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well I Emailed them both, hopefully I can find it somewhere.
Give DC Power a call too. 2005 and up 300m alts are listed on their page...and even if your 300 is older than that, they can still take care of you. And they make bad ass alts.
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Someone already said it: take out the insole padding and put some baby powder under it. I don't know exactly why it works, but it really does for me.
I've only got 5 or 6 pairs because I was tired of paying for shoes that sound like my feet are always wet...and it really, really annoys me. I figured what could it hurt to try? Only powder, and I think everyone has put powder in their shoe before.
No more squeaking. Only had to re-apply once to the only all black pair I own...and they did get wet.
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Approx. 72 skinned cats?
Not being silly, I guess it would depend on the type of finish you prefer. You can go basic carpet or other fabric type materials (matching leather is always nice), colored or textured paints (very cool effect in the right shade), bedliner etc...or go more traditional wood finishes with stains and varnishes.
Maybe even mural or graffiti the box if you're more artistically inclined...
Worst comes to worst, you can always cover the latter choices with the carpet/fabric if you don't like how it came out.
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I am pretty tired, so I'm not sure if my last post is totally understandable.
Anyway...from a quick look, it seems like your converted number should be 31.62 volts for 500 watts @ 2 ohm.
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So i hook up a volt meter to my speaker terminals on my amp? Man that crap is confusing lol, i read it but my mind isn't processing it right. What i get from that is i have to put in a test tone of 50hz. Have bass boost all the way down, hook up a volt meter to my speaker terminals, have the H/U volume to 75% and then turn up the gain till my subs start clipping/distorting/sounding muddy, is that correct?
Step 1: You need to find the wattage to voltage conversion for your amp and subs (sub/amp power ratings). That will give you the set point on the amp. Once you have that:
Turn the gain and bass boot all the way down on the amp. Flatten out all settings on the head unit (bass/treble/eq's/boost/etc).
Disconnect your subs from the amp. (*Don't forget your mids/highs and disconnect them if you want to make sure they don't blow.)
Turn the head unit up to it's max volume to find out what it is on your head unit, and as a general rule, 75% of that volume should be free from clipping.
Set the volume to that 75% volume, and set the 50hz track to repeat.
Connect your DMM leads into the speaker terminals on the amp, and slowly turn the gain up until the voltage reaches your number from step 1.
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Then don't turn it up louder than your 75%, or crank the boost, or the settings on the head unit...and you'll fairly close to as loud as you'll get with that setup, and still keep your stuff safe.
An Oscope is the best method for all of this, but most of us don't have access to one...and I can't justify the cost.
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i have a D3400 under my hood and i have a i bar 555 kit for it and i tried to put this knukonceptz battery terminal on the top post that came with the i bar 555
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KBT-30P
when i tightened it all the way it still came right off
what top post adapter do i need to get so this battery terminal will fit the battery?
The issue is the Knu terminals. The compression fitting is awesome, however the screw to secure it onto the post is lacking. It feels like it tightens down, and there is no wiggle...but if there is any tension on the wires at all, the terminal twists and slips right off; even fully tightened. You have to find the perfect angle for the terminal and wires to get it right.
These things are expensive, so you could try scoring the inside of the terminal to give it more bite on the post...but I said screw it and went to flat terminals and washers to make sure there are no issues.
However, I have to say I am not impressed with the quality of the ibar kits...as the metal screw/bolt points break out of the surrounding plastic with very little effort (very similar to the Knu terminals, but rather than slipping off, they break)...and others I know have had the same issue. Not up to the quality of the batteries, which are really amazing. 30+ bucks gone in a flash, so be very careful about putting even a little bit of stress on them!
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To get the equivalent effect of Damp Pro, you need between 3 and 4 layers of Peel and Seal, which is then not cost effective anymore. And then it's still not the same kind of dampening.
Damp Pro is very expensive though, so I got some of the B stock, and did two layers in 95% of the trunk area, and then did another two or three layers in places, with Fat Mat. I couldn't justify the cost to do the whole care in Damp, but I could justify using it as the foundation.
Sadly...I'm afraid all my rattles have moved and become more intense now that the Mayhems are in.
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Battery - Fuse - Firewall (look for existing grommet, or make new hole...this is the most difficult part IMO).
Interior side of firewall - under carpet and trim pieces (near the doors, and make sure the power is on the opposite side of RCA's, and be aware your trim might not fit back perfectly).
Repeat all the way to the hatch area.
Edited to add: be sure the area is clear on both sides of the firewall if you drill.
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Just test and see which way YOU like it the best, everybody's ears are different. You may find a different combination sounds better to you. It's all about testing.
Ditto this. Again.
TS, don't feel like you did something wrong because it's not subs up, port back. Put the box in, test it in as many positions as you want; decide what sounds best. If you still feel like you need them sub up, port back - build a new box; test and compare.
Just be happy you have an SUV to make box building easier.
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which is better or cheaper?
There isn't really a better one. You can't go wrong with either line.
I went with the Mayhems for slightly more RMS power...and more so because the BTL were on back order at the time. If I knew how long it would have taken to actually get the system done, I'd have gone with the BTL because I like the Fi logo better.
But to me, it sounds like you might be looking for the AA Havocs or even Chaos/ or the Fi Q, SSD or X series.
Fi has prices on the site...while AA you need to find a dealer.
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damn it i made my box wrong lol FUCK!
worth it to cover the sub wholes and re-mount them on top?
You have an suv I take it?
If the space and dimensions allow...just flip the box. Try both positions and see which one you prefer.
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With trunk only, most cars tend to sound best with sub and port firing back...but each one is different. If possible, move the box around to see what sounds best.
Porting the rear deck is a great way to let some of that trunk sound into the cabin, no matter what you choose.
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I could see running ground from up front if it was more than just a daily driver. But a 100 watts doesn't seem worth the expense if you're using high end wire...to me anyway. If you're planning on something much bigger down the road, then yeah...I guess the expense is worth it.
Now I wonder though...is a 100 watt difference even audible after a certain point?
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If the WTB section fails you - Darvex.com for the fuse+holder and terminals. KnuKonceptz for the wire. Not sure about what size you need, but they have 20 feet of 4 gauge KLMX on sale for 15.00 + shipping. You can also buy it by the foot, but I would recommend picking up more than you estimate to account for clearance issues or error.
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Do I need 17cubic feet for 4 12" subs or less? Is my port area to small? Trying to get everything built over the weekend as it's the only time I have. Please help someone! If you need any more values for drivers let me know.
Thanks in advanced.
And in case you just want to build a new box for the fun of it. You do not need anything close to 17 cubes for those Pioneer subs. (4) 12" Mayhems for example, would still only need say 12.75 cubes...so 17 cubes is HUGE!
1.65 is Pioneer's "ideal" ported size. So 6.6 cubes for all four (+ or - anything you do inside the box). I assume they accounted for displacement in their numbers.
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It says:
# sealed box volume: 0.85-1.75 cubic feet
# ported box volume: 1.25-2.05 cubic feet
So if your current box already has enough space (1.25-2.05 cubes per sub), to go ported, wouldn't it be easier to just figure out the port requirements for one of the "sections", and make a circle port based on that, repeated for each box/pod/section, rather than a whole box build? Especially if you want to get other subs...save the big box build for those.
Regular old PVC (plastic plumbing piping, if it's not called PVC there), will work just fine for ports, and should be cheaper than shipping some actual ports. You can even paint them...and with a heat gun and some practice, you can flare them just like the expensive aeroports.
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Dimming of the lights when the windows close/seal seems to be the norm on Cryslers...but if it's dimming while rolling them up, there is a problem. Have you tried revving some to see if it changes any?
Get the battery and alt tested (do it yourself if you're able), and go from there. If it's the alt, I hope it's easy to swap out for you.
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Double check your junk mail first. Then email them again if it's not in your junk mail. I haven't had to call them but email is very prompt. And I know you're antsy, but they'll take care of you...and you are going to LOVE the amp!
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I use the crossovers that come with the components (inline between the tweeter and 6 1/2" etc.)...and filter settings on the amp/deck. Not sure about your application with so many speakers. Might take up too much room...
Hooking them up: one amp front stage w/stereo, one amp rear stage w/stereo...my thoughts anyway.
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Amp says: 150W x 4 @ 2-Ohms RMS
Speakers are 4 ohm/ eighty watts rms each, so yes, you can hook up two of them to each channel to get 2 ohms. Make sure you give the amp enough ventilation, and watch your gains.
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Not sure if it's the same on Jeep as Chrysler...but my regulator is in the PCM (car's computer), not on the alt. Messing with that is not something I'd attempt, but thankfully a sweet DC alt can be had with a separate "regulator" (not sure if that's the proper term for this application), that will take care of your voltage concerns.
On top of being a DC alt.
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I honestly feel, the heavier the package...the worse they treat it. Like payback for having to move something heavy, which is asinine for a company that does shipping.
Just be lucky it was insured.
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That's so shitty. But Karma is a bitch...and I hope it comes around to whomever stole your stuff. Sorry man.
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How to check if Amp is fried?
in Amplifiers
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Can power it up to a battery...then test it properly when you have time.