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Posts posted by InfiniteRuckus
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what you have is what i call chip board which is totally different from ply wood. plywood shows the grain of the wood & usually has some knots in it.
as for how to cut some even boards... all i can really say is measure twice & cut once. radial arm saws & table saws are nice for people who can't cut a straight line with a circular saw.i guess if you have to ... measure up you box & put it together, then sand off the excess after, but it's really better to get it right the first time. practice makes perfect & prevention is the best cure.
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i actually like the clown & the skull on the hood... what i don't like is that school bus yellow against those darker colors. the whole paint job just doesn't flow with the lines of the ride. the bright red barbed wire is throwing me for a loop as well. i have to agree... would be better on a lowrider (minus the yellow) or something with a longer flat area to paint on, like a truck maybe.
i bet that was an expensive mistake cuz it doesn't look cheap... just ugly.
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the discoloration of everything is just amazing. someone really beat the shit out of that thing.
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if you are going to be running the full 2000 watts rms... i would go with 8 but that's just my opinion.
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lyrically it's better & bass wise... it's lower... a milli is just a stupid track in general. I can't stand his vioce these days either. weezy was better as a "hot boy" back in the day. now i think he's just making garbage trax for the money & surprisingly he's still making it
edit: the clap track is hilarious
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one of my favorite tracks to test low end is rich boy - drop
gucci mane - atlanta zoo is pretty sick too. i have to agree... you'll just have to play some trax & judge for yourself. just the box alone could make a world of difference in what sounds good to you
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T-Bone / Female /3 years old / 35-45 pounds/ Black Lab X Cocker Spaniel
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there is a guy one youtube called "davetheboxguy"... he has these external octagon shaped ports that are interchangeable. http://www.youtube.com/user/DaveTheBoxGuy#p/u
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WARNING!!!! DON'T BUY EURODEZIGN 8500K BULBS FROM EBAY!!! I have them & they are great... FOR ABOUT A MONTH. Then they want you to send them $6.95 each time you send one in to get replaced. So even though they are warrantied for life, they keep making money on you every time you get them replaced. On the up side, i did send in only 1 bulb & they kept sending me 2 back... but a few times one of the bulbs was useless so it's like i really only got 1 usable bulb. Then i would have to send that one back in & they would make another 6.95. it's really a big circle jerk with them.
anyways... 7000 - 8500K are my favorite blue color bulbs. the more white bulbs are around 6000K -6500K. last i knew 8500K was the legal limit on blue bulbs though. also... another thing i wanted to point out are my bulbs stock & aftermarket for the blazer are 55 watts on the lows & 65 watts for the highs. not sure what the accords are.
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i have it hooked up so that i can have it on even if the car is off (ill get into detail with that later)
so y is it running when the cars is off?
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that is moving some air
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i love that wiring wizard link... i have it bookmarked
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i am looking into one of these to match up with 2 fi ssd 12's and was wondering if they are as highly reviewed as some of their other products. if someone has some recommendations on a higher quality amp in the same price range($250) i'm open to suggestions.
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u can run an rca to headphone jack from the rca AUX "in" & then plug in your ipod
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I have blue earthquake ones...
they look pretty thin & cheap but work pretty decent. My favorites are the cross slit tipped ones cuz they seem to stay in better than the ones that are just rounded.
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those ones on ebay are more like what i was originally looking for. i just wanted a couple led's to run laps around the windshield. everything i have now is ran threw the dome light circuit... they only come on when i open the doors or roll the switch up to turn on the dome. if i was going to buy something like this... it would be for "offroad" use. my shit is so bright now i couldn't drive with them on if i tried & believe me i tried it one night when someone asked how many tickets i get driving around with them on. can't see out very well.
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there's no reason to be afraid of the big 3. it only allows the electricity to low more freely
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i think they are $20+ per foot. not sure about the controller. i was just looking at them to do my windshield with cuz my entire interior is done up in blue led's & 3 blue neons. was just an idea i've had kicking around
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so i should decide on an amp b4 the subs? i'm thinking something with a 1 ohm
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i haven't bought the subs yet, i can't decide if i want to go with dual 1's or dual 2's. still haven't decided on the amp either, but i'm open to suggestions
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awesome link. thanks. yeah i've seen the pics just not sure how to pull it off/put it into practice. would you wire those in a series or parallel? there's also so many ways to wire a dual voice coil sub... it's still a bit over my head.
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My first thought was to try a single 1600 rms but wasn't sure if that was a feasible idea or if it would be overpowering them.
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I'm Looking into upgrading from 1 12" sub to 2 12" Fi SSD's. I'm still shopping around & looking for suggestions on amp & how I should set it up. I was wondering if I should run 2 - 800 Rms amps, 1 - 800 x 2 channel, or if 1 - 1600 x 1 channel is possible.
I was also wondering if someone could clear up what some of these abbreviations mean.
Fs: 30.1 Hz | 30.1 Hz
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil
Qms: 7.65 | 7.65
Qes: .37 | .37
Qts: .36 | .36
Mms: 248g | 248g
Cms: 0.11mm/N | 0.11mm/N
Sd: 480cm^2 | 480cm^2
Vas: 36.5 l | 36.5 l
Spl: 86.1dB 1W/1m | 86.1dB 1W/1m
Bl: 13.1 N/A | 18.7 N/A
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Anyone use these before? I was thinking they might look interesting wrapped around the boarder of a windshield or something.
Quick wiring question
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted · Edited by InfiniteRuckus
(parallel/parallel) = 1 ohm load
Voice coils wired in parallel, speakers wired in parallel
Recommended Amplifier: Stable at 1 ohm mono