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g6ryder

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Posts posted by g6ryder

  1. So ive spent the last 2 days reconing m RE MT motor with upgraded FI soft parts its a 12" this was my 1st recone and and i think i did pretty well for a 1st timer i got D1 coil and extra spider and int leads i didnt know what that was but it was an upgrade so i paid the xtra 15$ lol but here are the pics

    Here is just motor thing is huge weighs i beleive 60+lbs by itself

    2011-05-07161144.jpg

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    Just on boxing the recone kit

    2011-06-14175531.jpg

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    The leads

    2011-06-14175538.jpg

    The motor and basket

    2011-06-14180805.jpg

    Got the spider glued down

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    Got surround glued down

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    Got dust cap glued down

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    Got some weight on the dust cap while its drying

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    I got D1 coil and both coils are sitting at .7-.9 ohm each so thats about right soldering these leads were a bisshhh

    2011-06-15141012.jpg

    2011-06-15140939.jpg

  2. Here are some updated pics everything is done and installed except i havent recieved recone kit yet so still waiting for that to be shipped and delivered, but enjoy tell me what you think. Im reconing an Re MT motor with a recone kit from Fi making it into a 12" will be ran at .5 ohm daily

    Picked up my box that was built locally by surreal its a horn designed enclosure huge port mouth he said has about 84sq+ of port area

    2011-05-30111655.jpg

    Double Baffled

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    Here is the mouth of the port painted to match my car looks good!!

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    Here it is in the trunk firing into the cabin but not quite walled off.

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    Here is my new KNU 0ga wire compared to my old "0ga" wire wow what a huge difference the old wire looks like 4ga or smaller.

    2011-05-30105032.jpg

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    Threw out my old little Stinger SPV35 (which was bad) and replaced it with this C&D 100ah battery i took my spare tire out and put the new battery and there this was before i cleaned the wire up and laid it down.

    2011-05-30113823.jpg

    Put some L-brackets in to hold box in place and wired up my new Digital Designs M3 i have no real way to test it but turned on fine.

    2011-05-30130756.jpg

  3. THe box is 3.5 after displacement each side so all and all it is 7cuft not sure aboout the port size I didn't tune it and I think it is tuned @ 34.7 ou sumthin like that I didn't build it bc I know nothing about it lol I just wanted something that bumps I drive it daily but like to go to shows and see if i place

    And that's what the guy built it for a daily driver that can go to a comp and compete he shouldn't claim u should be in the 150's bc u probably won't get there its in a daily box not a spl box I could seeing going up 2-3db or so by adding some deadner some more power ect but if u want straight spl and to be in the 150db range build a spl type enclosure

  4. batteries are only gonna help you so much. you are gonna get to the point were your voltage is gonna go down and it will stay down unless you turn it down. even though you add batteries you gotta keep in mind that the alt is whats keeping those batteries charged. so adding more batteries will only go so far and then you will be back to low voltage since your alt cant keep up

    What Size alt would i need? would a 180A be enough?

    Different companies offer different models and sizes i would get the biggest in ur price range in case u want to upgrade power in the future

  5. You have a really small stock alt but ur running a single t1000 plus ur high amps how is that 3000wrms? And an H/O alt for ur car will cost 800$ who did you call to get that quote? look at excessive amerage great prices, customer service, and great products imo. I would say you should be fine looking at ur setup its not 3k tho

    Ok kool.. the $800 was just my estimation.. i live in the Caribbean... and shipping costs and customs duty almost doubles the original price.. thats why i said $800.. And about the 3K.. i just figured to get the total you add the rated RMS for each amplifier.. is that incorrect?

    Oh i see give a couple companies a call excessive amerage,mechman,ect ur rf t10001is rated at 1k and i dont see ur mid amps being rated at 2k between both of them u may have a total of 1500-1800rms and the boss isnt got to get rated so u should be fine on roughly 1.5k or less with stock electrical add that xs power battery but i would def. look into getting a bigger alt between impedence rise and other factors u should fine

  6. i want a badass 15, just not sure wats the best for SQ and just total destroying shit. BTW im new to the forum!

    Hmm, usually a badass 15 doesn't really go in the same sentence as SQ. From my experience, I have a Fi BTL N2 15. And it does pretty well at "destroying" shit. Those are all pretty much SPL subs.. You need to give us more info, otherwise we can't give you much help.

    Electrical?

    Box?

    Vehicle?

    Amp?

    Reason for getting a destructional 15?

    i am goin to be running true 0 gage and a true 10 farad cap with a factory diesel 180 apm alt and 2 batteries.the vehicle is a 2006 chevy diesel crew cab and im doin bucket seats in the back so i can run a set up in the middle. basiclly wat i ment by SQ was wich produces the bass the best really.not sure EXACTLY wat amp, but im lookin for atleast 3000 watts. thats y i posted those subs

    Ditch the cap that doesn't do anything get a h/o although a couple big batts in the trunk and a big battery up front I don't think ur ready for any of the subs uve listed start off smaller listen and learn and then try a bigger setup when u learn more about audio

  7. Ive ran around 2.5k on stock alt (125 amp) with a stinger spv35 and big 3 it did fine u should be fine on a 2-3k watts if u do atleast a big 3 and have a battery or two in ur trunk but i just an excessive amerage alt so no more stock for me but you should be fine with 2 12" bl's if u have the trunk space, but i would say no on the btl bc u couldnt give them the power they need on stock electrical.

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