EVL-100
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Posts posted by EVL-100
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I have 4 of the v1's and they hit the lows great, a lot of people comment on how well they hit the lows for little 10's.
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Just a bit of an update from my last thread http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/171246-4-x-skar-vvx-10s-crescendo-3500-1514db/
Had Australian finals over the weekend where I got first place and a new PB of 152.0db at 40hz using my 4x Skar VVX-10's and Crescendo BC3500D.
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do you have any build log of some sort?
I usually get to stuck into the build and forget to take pics.
Appreciate the comments!
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Just posting here results from my last competition, my 4 skar VVX-10's scored me a first place trophy.
Winning run was a 151.3@40hz, best for the day was a 151.4@40hz, which I was super happy with considering I had just got a new box in the night before with zero testing just got up at 6am and drove to the competition.
Hopefully I have more to come.
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Hey Steve, so this is just like regular polyster resin? (just a hundred times easier to work with), reason I ask I plan on putting resin on the inside of my enclosure and just wondering would I get the same results with this over regular polyster resin?
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Another pb 149.3db at 39hz, still same subs, box and amp, this was good enough for 2nd place.
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I have a BC3500D a Mechman 240 and 2 xs D3100's, coltage drops to 13 worst case while cruising around.
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dont tell me the vxx 10 cracked that window
:o lolAs soon as I put the VVX-10's the window cracked after one song then the mirror broke off after a few songs, just the other night though the cracks just started growing and growing until it was exploded pretty much lol
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Have had my VVX-10's for around 8 months now and they were powered by a sundown SAZ-3500D first and now a Crescendo BC3500D
Got metered for the first time yesterday managed 145.0db @ 36hz which I was happy with considering its the second box I have built.
The windshield gave out the night before
And here is a video of them doing some damage
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My story starts back many months ago I started to search for a high output alternator for my car,
I got in contact with a well known alternator builder, that told me he could build me a 225amp alt for a cheap price and
life time warranty if I sent him a standard unit off my vehicle, many months went by before getting a email saying
he had finally built my alt and it did 192amps peak, once I had it back and installed I couldnt get anything out of it,
only 35amps at idle which wouldnt even charge my batteries (stock alt does 70amps at idle) and never saw anymore
then 90amps peak (stock does 100amps), his only excuse for it not performing well was lack of belt traction (belt wasnt slipping at all)
I then got in contact with mechman and they told me that my standard alt wasnt able to be modified, but they suggested I use one of there
universal units and fabricate brackets to mount it to my engine (this wouldnt be an issue as I am a fabricator by trade), So I went
ahead and paid for a 240amp alt, 10days later it arrived at my door and they day after I fabricated the brackets required to mount it.
gotta say I am way more then satisfied with it so far it kicks the ass out of the other alt I had have seen 130+amps at idle and 220+amps
at 1800rpms after getting the unit good and hot.
You can add another satisfied customer to your list mechman I am glad that I decided to go with you if only I had of seen the light
before going with the other guy but I guess its a lesson learned.
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Have my 4 vvx-10's on a sundown SAZ-3500D at 1ohm and theyre loving it.
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I ended up putting 150amp fuses in and so far no problems.
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This was my thinking just wanted to double check thanks guys.
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So im gonna run dual inputs on a saz-3500, sundown say 300a fuse for the 3500.
With the duals would I run dual 300a fuses or dual 150a fuses?
Thanks guys.
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Got a vy wagon now, dude youve done some awesome work, wanna re do mine? haha
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Damn Nice boot man, good to see someone else from melbourne on here.
Car looks good too makes me miss my vr a little, oh well moved on to better things now.
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Yep , at first I had it grounded straight to the battery, thought that may be the problem so moved it right next to the switch box and yeah sanded using a nut bolt and washer.
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If you can tell me a solution that would be awesome I emailed AVS, they had no answer other then telling me to check the ground to my head unit, I googled it and found a few threads on some other sites with people having the same issue but no way to fix it.
Ive got asco valves that are grounded to the body then the positives are connected to the terminals on the AVS box, I had the AVS box grounded to the battery, which I changed to the body but it made no difference, its power is connected to the positive of the battery.
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I have a avs 9 switch box and its giving me problems, the box is grounded to the body of the car stripped back to bare metal and bolted, then the power is from the front battery, everytime I hit a switch I get a popping through the speakers, and the lights flicker in my air gauges, and my stinger volt meter will stop working.
Any ideas on how to fix this?
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So this should handle a 3500d fine?
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Haha, have 50ft of knukonceptz 0 gauge red and 20ft of black, so havent ran wire yet, 1 d3100 up front and 1 in the rear.
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Reckon that will handle it fine? any idea on what voltage drop would be like?
:o lol
4 x Skar VVX-10's + Crescendo 3500 = 151.4db
in SKAR AUDIO - (READ ONLY ARCHIVE)
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This is the only decent video I have of it at the moment