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memphisbasshead

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Everything posted by memphisbasshead

  1. memphisbasshead
    i would like to trade my dc audio level 3 15 for that sub if i can. will it take 1200 rms daily?
  2. memphisbasshead
  3. memphisbasshead
    i wouldn't i would buy the dc audio level 3 15 so i would have 2 oh smart one! lol jk
  4. memphisbasshead
  5. memphisbasshead
  6. memphisbasshead
    Ok i am looking for one of these subs DC Lvl 4 12, DC Lvl 4 10, Fi Q 12, DC Lvl 4 xl 10, DC lvl 3 15, DC lvl 3 12, or Fi ssd 12 (with BP option or flatwind). I have a DC audio level 3 15 with an enclosure already built for trade.
  7. memphisbasshead
    do y'all think i could get away with 2.8 cubic ft after displacement which would be 1.4 for each sub but the subs will share the same enclosure?? the subs will be runnnig on 1200 watts rms as of now but i might upgrade to something in the near future.
  8. memphisbasshead
    what 12 did you have?? lol and how much power were you running to it?
  9. memphisbasshead
    cool so i guess i'm going with the 12's. and should i tune to 36 hz with about 12 sq inches of port area per cubic ft and the box is 3 cubes after displacement. i kinda wanted to tune high for spl and since most of the music i listen to is rock i figured that would be a good tuning frequency.
  10. memphisbasshead
    do you think i would be hitting in the 140's with the 12's ported?
  11. memphisbasshead
    Okay I was wondering weather if I should get 2 DC Audio Level 3 15's sealed in a 3.4 cubic ft box or 2 DC Audio Level 3 12's ported in a 3.4 cubic ft box tuned to 35 hz after displacement.I want to be able to hit at least a 142 sealed on the dash. I will be putting 1200 watts rms to either setup.
  12. memphisbasshead
    i think 1500 would be ok as long as you watch your gains.
  13. memphisbasshead
    well i wouldn't be putting a full 1000 rms to the sub thats why you have voltage input adjustment on the amp so you can control the power.
  14. memphisbasshead
    do you really think that the ported 12 will hit harder than the sealed 15??
  15. memphisbasshead
    i don't think i would have the space thats why i asked if i should go with the ported 12 or the sealed 15 due to space.
  16. memphisbasshead
    Okay should I go with a DC Lvl 3 12 ported or a DC Lvl 3 15 Sealed?? I will be putting 1000 watts rms to either sub.
  17. memphisbasshead
    i don't seem to have much voltage drop as it is but i just wanna make sure that i can get a full 1200-1500 watts rms no problem.
  18. memphisbasshead
    yeah i know but the thing is is that i can't find an alternator for my car and i only want a small alternator thats 160-180 amps and i already talked to the guys at dc and they wanted $349 for just one 180 amp alternator!
  19. memphisbasshead
    if i put a battery in the back do you have any recommendations for some good cheap batteries?
  20. memphisbasshead
    Ok i have a 2008 kia rio lx and i already put a yellow top optima battery under the hood and i did the big 3. i did a voltage test and i'm doing about 14.2 volts but i hardly have any voltage drop at all which is good. but my question i have is will my electrical system work with a 1200-1500 watt amplifier and still get the full power?? or do i need to upgrade the alternator to?? (i have a stock 90 amp alternator btw)
  21. memphisbasshead
    and if i'm screwing up on how to make that box please correct me on how to make it properly
  22. memphisbasshead
    i haven't even made the box yet. and are you saying that the box i'm gonna build is gonna sound like shit?? umm far from it i've built more than enough boxes to know what i'm doing lol
  23. memphisbasshead
    cool then that saves me some money lol
  24. memphisbasshead
    i'm getting reay to make one tomorrow afternoon. here are the box specs (box is L-ported btw) Box Volume After Displacement: 4 cubic ft Tuning Frequency: 35.12 hz Port Area: 62 sq in.
  25. memphisbasshead
    yeah i was just gonna wire it to 2 ohms for more power but keep my gains adjusted
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