memphisbasshead
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Posts posted by memphisbasshead
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:lol: I was thinking the same thing.
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why would you trade a level 3 15 for a level 3 15?
i wouldn't i would buy the dc audio level 3 15 so i would have 2 oh smart one! lol jk
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Ok i am looking for one of these subs DC Lvl 4 12, DC Lvl 4 10, Fi Q 12, DC Lvl 4 xl 10, DC lvl 3 15, DC lvl 3 12, or Fi ssd 12 (with BP option or flatwind). I have a DC audio level 3 15 with an enclosure already built for trade.
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do y'all think i could get away with 2.8 cubic ft after displacement which would be 1.4 for each sub but the subs will share the same enclosure?? the subs will be runnnig on 1200 watts rms as of now but i might upgrade to something in the near future.
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Yes i would definitely go with the 12's. You shouldnt have a problem getting into the 140's . I was able to get into the 50's with a single 12 in my old 96 accord bro its all about the box and playing with it in the trunk to find out where its the loudest and sounds the best
what 12 did you have?? lol and how much power were you running to it?
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There is no way he will only be in the 30's man. Im in the 130's right now with a single 8 on 100 watts in my 08 impala.
cool so i guess i'm going with the 12's. and should i tune to 36 hz with about 12 sq inches of port area per cubic ft and the box is 3 cubes after displacement. i kinda wanted to tune high for spl and since most of the music i listen to is rock i figured that would be a good tuning frequency.
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Id say do two 12"s give you some more wiggle room to move the box around and the subs wont get in the way if you get what i mean and if your putting 1.2k to two 12"s they might hit harder then the 15"s since the cone is smaller
do you think i would be hitting in the 140's with the 12's ported?
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Okay I was wondering weather if I should get 2 DC Audio Level 3 15's sealed in a 3.4 cubic ft box or 2 DC Audio Level 3 12's ported in a 3.4 cubic ft box tuned to 35 hz after displacement.I want to be able to hit at least a 142 sealed on the dash. I will be putting 1200 watts rms to either setup.
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12 ported>15 sealed, then again i dont like sealed boxes :/ but thats just my opinion, i think it would hit harder aswell, but if your gunna run 1000rms to it do a lvl 4 not a 3, dont think just cuz its a DC you can rape it with power, correct me if im wrong but i think loads of power is more ment for XL's and up?
also just a question of my own to add here, 1500ish on a lvl 4 with 5coil and spiders, would that be too much or fine?
sorry to thread jack op
i think 1500 would be ok as long as you watch your gains.
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i say the 12 ported. make the box a little on the small side because 1000rms is alot for the sub
well i wouldn't be putting a full 1000 rms to the sub thats why you have voltage input adjustment on the amp so you can control the power.
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ported ftmfw.
do you really think that the ported 12 will hit harder than the sealed 15??
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be careful running 1000 rms to that... its rated at 600.. i would do the lvl 4 sealed..
can you run 2 lvl 3 12s sealed?
i don't think i would have the space thats why i asked if i should go with the ported 12 or the sealed 15 due to space.
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Okay should I go with a DC Lvl 3 12 ported or a DC Lvl 3 15 Sealed?? I will be putting 1000 watts rms to either sub.
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with 1200 watts dont worry about the alternator. you probably wont even get too bad of voltage drop without a battery in the back
i don't seem to have much voltage drop as it is but i just wanna make sure that i can get a full 1200-1500 watts rms no problem.
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At that kind of power I'd get a better alternator, but first start off with a second battery, it will help keep the voltage drops to a minimum, but I'd strongly consider it, cuz your stock alternator is on the small side. so, yeah, drop a second battery in there first, then decide. I'd say a good size to get would be like a 180-220 amp alternator, but I don't really know much about alternators, lol. I'm just a noob trying to learn too.
yeah i know but the thing is is that i can't find an alternator for my car and i only want a small alternator thats 160-180 amps and i already talked to the guys at dc and they wanted $349 for just one 180 amp alternator!
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try it. if not throw a batt in the back and you'll be set
if i put a battery in the back do you have any recommendations for some good cheap batteries?
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Ok i have a 2008 kia rio lx and i already put a yellow top optima battery under the hood and i did the big 3. i did a voltage test and i'm doing about 14.2 volts but i hardly have any voltage drop at all which is good. but my question i have is will my electrical system work with a 1200-1500 watt amplifier and still get the full power?? or do i need to upgrade the alternator to?? (i have a stock 90 amp alternator btw)
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and if i'm screwing up on how to make that box please correct me on how to make it properly
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there the prob. u need 2 make a better box and take ur time on it dont rush it at all and that sub WILL come 2 live in a better box
i haven't even made the box yet. and are you saying that the box i'm gonna build is gonna sound like shit?? umm far from it i've built more than enough boxes to know what i'm doing lol
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i would go with the lvl 3
cool then that saves me some money lol
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is that lvl 3 in a prefab box or did u make one for it?
and ur not going 2 see 1.2k out of that amp u will be lucky 2 see over 600 with volt drop and imp. rise
i'm getting reay to make one tomorrow afternoon. here are the box specs (box is L-ported btw)
Box Volume After Displacement: 4 cubic ft
Tuning Frequency: 35.12 hz
Port Area: 62 sq in.
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if you use the kenwood amp youll probably get like 300-400 watts at 8ohms, or the 1200 at 2ohms, so id probably go with the AP to be safe but thats just me
yeah i was just gonna wire it to 2 ohms for more power but keep my gains adjusted
:lol: 
WTB Dc or Fi Sub
in Want To Buy
Posted
i would like to trade my dc audio level 3 15 for that sub if i can. will it take 1200 rms daily?