s_carter
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Posts posted by s_carter
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Mind if I ask why you chose the CapXon caps for your amps, cost effectiveness I'm assuming? They are prone to failures, along with OST and RLP branded caps. In all my experience with electronics repairs, those are the three brands that fail the most often, I have replaced hundreds upon hundreds of them in the past couple of years alone.
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At the price point of your amps, I will be much happier to see you guys use the tiffany style RCA plugs that are threaded into the case. I don't mind paying more for an amp, but it should show in the design and materials used in the production of them. Looking good for 2012!
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Each chamber will get a port that is half the width of the combined port area. your length doesnt change.
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The last Pyle 18" I ran for a few hours at roughly 300 watts RMS on a Sherwood low impedance stereo receiver (rated 120 watts RMS at 8 ohms per channel, with each 4 ohm coil to left and right channels of the receiver) in an 8 cubic foot box tuned to 20 hertz, before it overheated the motor and melted the glue holding the coil windings to the former. Cheap China made glue for the win. I can't see how the 21" model would use better glue, so just a friendly warning.
I have run my share of cheap subs in my day, and I have to say, I like the Pyramid Super Pro 18's a lot more than the Pyle 18's. Not a lot of xmax to them, but they do seem to hold up to a lot of abuse. I had two of them in up firing sealed boxes running about 1000 watts RMS in the back of my Bronco, and the back window was broken out so when I was out wheeling in the mud, the cones would fill up with water, and they held up for something like two years like that before getting stolen.
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the only way you can get help with porting this design, is by posting the dimensions and volume of the box, and driver that will be used with it, and what kind of tune you are looking to achieve.
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at a vas of 791 liters, the tline or horn would have to be 10x that in length, not worth it. build at least a 10-12 cube (16 or 20 would be better) ported box and call it good.
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i am trying to build a burp box for two of these subs, thinking about 1.2 cubes for both, but i cant think of a good tuning frequency, somewhere in the 55 to 60 hertz is probably about right, but i want some other peoples input... will be running about 1000 watts rms to the pair. any ideas?
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I'm just guessing, but I think that Sundown will eat the Alpine's alive! I don't have anything against Alpine, I was actually thinking of getting some Type R's for my Bronco, but I am not sure they will be able to play nicely with my beats. 2 18" subs running 5kw is a lot to keep up with, though.
How are the highs on the Type R's sound to you? Are you running them with deck power or an amp?
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Hey, just noticed, ALPINE MUCH?
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parents FTL. ha ha-
I got into installing mobile electronics back when I was 13, haven't looked back since. Even starting my own business for it now. Its good to see that you are willing to take the time to learn and not being afraid to ask questions doesn't hurt either. There are lots of very talented people here who can help you out along the way.
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That actually doesn't look half bad of a kit, especially for the price. If you want a quick and easy first system, its a good deal.
I dont know of any kits that are less than that, other than the boss amplified sub kits, and they aren't anything special, but you wont be winning too many bass heads over with them.
The amp kit is probably questionable on the wire gauges, but with the amount of power that amp will use, it will be fine.
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I will be buying another Rubicon 4 channel to power my mains once I get ready to rebuild my entire setup soon, and if it performs half as good as this 2500D does, I will be ecstatic. I might even see about becoming a dealer for SS, since I can always use good quality equipment on hand for customers.
You will not be disappointed at all!
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I believe you are thinking of a regulated power supply, which will provide the same power for any voltage, unregulated varies with the input voltage.
And, yes, Rubicons are regulated, so you will get the same amount of power no matter the voltage, as long as its within limits.
I did not realize that, I though they were unregulated- but that's what I am here for, TO LEARN!
Eh, time for bed....
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Check out the Rubicon lineup from Soundstream for 2010, some awesome amps, I just bought the 2500D and it has yet to stop impressing me every time I turn it up. Dirt cheap as well. They should be able to do rated wattage, but I can't tell you, since I haven't tested mine yet.
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the stock alt is designed to power only what the car comes with originally and maybe a few amps of reserve. add in a 1500 watt amp, and your just killing your electrical system. go for the wiring and alt first!
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i just bought a rub2500.1d and it is a beast, if only i can bump my voltages up to rated specs at full blast(dippin to 12.5 now which is about 1000 watts rms at 2 ohms), ill be in heaven. havent been able to get her to shut down once, and its a very efficient amp.
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actually low voltage is the most likely culprit. check what kind of voltage it is getting, and measure your vdrops at the terminals and at your ground points. my guess is you got a bad connection somewhere.
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Sundown 2012 Amp Line... first bit of information!
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
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Surprising, although the failures I have seen seem to be limited to certain values of caps, and in a lot cases they were probably under rated for the voltage and capacitance required for the circuit. But the amps sure have do some well laid out board designs. Give your engineer a pat on the back, they look great!