Maroon97SL
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Posts posted by Maroon97SL
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Im talking the old stuff. Like the real old shit. Like the system my grandfather would have had.
Did they really have amplifiers back then haha?
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There is nothing like the old skool power. Back then just about everybody made good rock solid amps. Believe it or not Pyramid was behind a lot of the powerful amps back in the day.
Thats crazy, i have had 2 pyramid amps and so far I've put them through hell and they still come out fighting, the first one i fried was my fault.
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Its a older model
Alright thought so, back in the day my older brother had a bd1000 it was OLD school, he had it powering two mtx subs in a sealed box. His ford aerostar literally fell apart from this system, the loudest thing I've hear in person to this date, that system bumped.
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The regular.
Im lost lol There is prime punch and power on the website.
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NO. LOL. The pyramid shaped RF.
Power series?
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I have one in my jeep its a decent little amp. I even had one wired down to 1ohm and you could cook eggs on it but it never shut off. The prime 1000 on the other hand is a complete turd.
Funny thing is the 500-1 seems quite a bit bigger then the 1000-1 as well, IDK if that really means anything but isn't bigger usually better?
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I took my 500@2 down to 1 OHM. It did good.
The Prime R500-1? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17368_Rockford+Fosgate+PRIME+R500-1.html
And on there it says RMS 500 x 1 @ 2ohm then right below it, it says max output 500 x 1 @ 2 ohm
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I have one in my jeep its a decent little amp. I even had one wired down to 1ohm and you could cook eggs on it but it never shut off. The prime 1000 on the other hand is a complete turd.
These are stable @ 1 ohm? Says 2 and 4 ohm on the web site, wonder how much power it puts out at 1 ohm like 700?
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Any ideas? i think a sealed box is recommended for them, but from experience i like ported better.
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I am pretty tired, so I'm not sure if my last post is totally understandable.
Anyway...from a quick look, it seems like your converted number should be 31.62 volts for 500 watts @ 2 ohm.
Im running 320watts x 1 @ 4 ohms off my amp. Subs are 300w Rms each.
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So i hook up a volt meter to my speaker terminals on my amp? Man that crap is confusing lol, i read it but my mind isn't processing it right. What i get from that is i have to put in a test tone of 50hz. Have bass boost all the way down, hook up a volt meter to my speaker terminals, have the H/U volume to 75% and then turn up the gain till my subs start clipping/distorting/sounding muddy, is that correct?
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dont you EVER touch the bass boost ever again.... we are watching you
lol this is why i joined the SMD forum, I've learned a lot and have put most if not all of it to use. I have done maybe 4 builds, all with basic equip and as I go along i learn more and buy better equip, all i gotta say is the first pair of subs i had wouldn't even touch these 12's.
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oh no no no. bass boost down sir
Ok so set gains at like 1/4 and bass boost maybe 1/2? The stock speakers can't handle much bass off the deck ( they sound like crap ).
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what volume do you turn it up to?
The Deck is a Alpine CDE-100 i turn it up to about 30 ( idk what the highest volume is ), also some more info, the bass boost on the amp is turned all the way up, bass on my cd player is all the way down.
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I don't know what Muddy sounds like but I'm willing to bet it your gain, how far up is it?
I have it turned down quite a bit, at most right now 1/2 way up.
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My subs distort ( sound muddy ) at higher volumes, is this caused by my box or gain? Subs are eclipse 87121.8 12's they are 300w RMS @ 8 ohms, amp is a RF R500-1, i have them in a R/T dual 12" vented pre fab box. I want to build a box for them but have no idea what kind and how big of an enclosure to build.
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IF someone is looking for an affordable amp this thing is awesome ( even used ). This amp is pushing my 12's so much better than that Pyaracrap. My windshield is actually flexing quite a bit more than it use to.
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Should i wire up the voltmeter to my battery or to the amp? was thinking the battery.
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spade connectors over 8 gauge i dont care for. Take the boot off of a normal ring terminal. Put it over your wire. strip back what you need and insert it into your amp. tighten the connector push the boot up itl it starts to push into the terminal housing. its no longer a bare wire
Right now i have the wire split into two pieces ( one on each side of the bolt ) and then i have a boot over it, the boot doesn't want to push up all the way though.
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Would a 4 gauge ring terminal fit under the screw/plate?
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go to darvex.com for the connectors, i dont see any but you may have to make some
http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=16
secong skin for the damplifier
and ebay for the volt meter search for "stinger digital meter" and it should come up
hope that helps
+1 thanks man.
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why do you need butt connectors for 4 gauge? for what particular reason?
deadener? best = second skin damplifier pro. better than 99% (or 100% if you got balls) of the shit out there.
volt meter? almost everyone on here uses Stinger's volt meter (personally i have the blue one)
I want to use spade terminals cause im weary about having bare wire next to each other, I just want to clean things up a bit and make it safer. Doesn't second skin cut the %^#@ out of your hands lol? Im not afraid of getting injured or dirty working on things, i grew up in a farm town, its my nature.
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Fuck me I got ninja'd
WTF?!?
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I need some 4 gauge butt connectors for a R500-1 Rockford amp ( like a spade terminal connector that inserts under the screw on a + and - terminal ). I also need to get a volt meter, and maybe some damper for my trunk, where would be the cheapest place to order all of these parts from?
Car Audio major?
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
I've heard some where that you can go to college and get some sort of degree for custom electronics, what major would it be?