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zxsonnyxz

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Posts posted by zxsonnyxz

  1. Thats got to be the the sickest woofer ive seen ..... like ever. Fyi in the spirt of ripping people off i copied and pasted pics of a Ferrari off the Ferrari website to craiglist where I'm now selling a new Ferrari prototype that the owner of Ferrari sent me for some testing im asking $950 if anyone's interested pm me....

    I remember a "Ferrari" guy on here a while back... :D

  2. If you can't build yourself, do you know anyone that can build it for you?

    Building your own box designed to driver specs and car space is really the way to go in my opinion. It doesn't even have to be any more expensive, and you get a custom clean fit and better sound.

    I saw FI mentioned earlier. http://bladeice.com/ would be your European importer of FI, AA, XS power (lydibilen.no selger også disse, samt gode kabler) and also the SMD tools. They even offered to lower the value on the shipment of a sub in a price quote i got, so i could get around taxes.

  3. ^^ XD

    We are trying to help just as much as you are looking for it, but you're not making it easy.

    Your DMM is not an amp. The amp will se a 2 ohm load if you wire the sub correctly. That's the bottom line of what we are saying.

    If your amp gets too hot you have adjusted your setup wrong, and/or you don't meet its power requrement.

    Look here: http://www.dynabel.no/Resource/File/338/SCAN-SPEAK_SUB_30W-4558T00.PDF High quality speaker.

    This is a 4 Ohm woofer, as stated in the datesheet as "Nominal impedance [Zn] 4 "

    Now read this, "DC resistance [Re] 2.6 " THIS is what your DMM will read. It's not even close to 4 ohms but it's still a 4 ohm speaker, as that is the nominal impedance.

    If you don't know the terms used, google them!

  4. No you are fine, as stated by all above...

    What you are reading with the DMM is the DC resistance of the coil, and you're basically measuring a long wire. When you're playing music however, the coil becomes a inductive reactive load and the total resistance (impedance) will rise, and the amound of rise change with frequency.

    The "nominal impedance" (Z or Zn) number is just kind of an average through the frequency range.

    Your amp isn't going to die the second it sees a load belov 2 ohms. It too is rated with by nominal impedance, and as long as you match it with speakers with a combined Zn of 2 or more ohms, you're good.

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