Will757
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Posts posted by Will757
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Because a facepalm just does not suffice right now...
The temperature outside does not change when the car is stationary or in movement. Also, The coolant system having to work harder shows a lack of understanding on how it all works. I can see why you guys think the way you do, but I can guarantee you should read some more. Besides 0 MPG and emmissions, there is nothing wrong with sitting at idle, and no such thing as "more taxxing" on the engine or coolant system.
In regards to the OP, the OP has not even posted again in the thread even with more information or explanation.
who said anything about the outside temperature changing between idling and moving? Im talking about the operating temperature of my car. There is actually such a thing as taxing on the engine or cooling system. When oil breaks down due to excessive heat, it loses its lubricative properties and doesnt do what its supposed to do quite as well. Of course its not like this is a fast process, but its still happening and is doing no good for the engine. Plus, all that extra heat isnt good for plastic and rubber pieces under the hood. lots of heating and cooling makes that stuff brittle over time
My Point: The chances of catastrophic engine failure are slim to none, but it is definitely better for the engine to be off than to idle for long periods of time when it doesnt necessarily have to
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Idling for long periods of time definitely isnt the best thing to do for an engine. a lot of heat builds up under that hood when its 90+ degrees out. Some cars do have better cooling systems than others though. My dad's F150 runs at the same temperature on the freeway that it does sitting in the driveway idling for a while. My car on the other hand, runs at about 160-180 when Im on the freeway, and just sitting there idling itll hit 210 or more if its really hot out. There is definitely an added strain on the cooling system. Thats part of the police package on cars. they have a beefier cooling system because police cars do a whole lot of idling
you have a strange and disturbing avatar there bud.
you also make some good points, especially about the police package. police cars have larger radiators, larger crank cases, transmission coolers and bigger oil pans so they can hold more oil. even the hybrid cars are outfitted with better cooling components.
However, letting a car idle for a moderate amount of time while playing a system shouldn't drastically affect the engine temperature.
I feel like this shouldn't really be an issue. just use common sense when your listening to music. if its 100 degrees out I dont even want to be sitting in the car with the air on. id rather just not be idling at all, let alone powering up 5 amplifiers and 30 speakers. if your careful with what you do, there shouldnt be any problems.
Haha yeah i know. I was clearing out my emails and my friend had sent me this back in like 07. so i just decided to make it my avatar since i didnt have one.
But back to the idling - it probably wont do any real damage to your engine, but excessive heat speeds up the process of oil breaking down. so if your car is lime mine and runs 40-50 degrees hotter just sitting there, might wanna go easy on that. Ive got a deka 105ah battery in my trunk, and 3500 watts of amps. I always listen to it when im working out in the yard, and it has no problem running not full tilt, but loud enough so that i can hear it clearly throughout the yard which is about an acre. I can do that for at least a couple few hours no problem. and if im working for longer, I turn it off, take a break, and start the car for maybe 15 minutes or so, lettting it charge some. Never had any problems doing it that way
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Idling for long periods of time definitely isnt the best thing to do for an engine. a lot of heat builds up under that hood when its 90+ degrees out. Some cars do have better cooling systems than others though. My dad's F150 runs at the same temperature on the freeway that it does sitting in the driveway idling for a while. My car on the other hand, runs at about 160-180 when Im on the freeway, and just sitting there idling itll hit 210 or more if its really hot out. There is definitely an added strain on the cooling system. Thats part of the police package on cars. they have a beefier cooling system because police cars do a whole lot of idling
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lol you mean like when someone tries to shove a few 18's in a civic?
lol Yep.
That and anytime I have to work on or install stuff in them. Just seems like everything is in the smallest and tightest spots. Even on the newer imports like my brothers Civic, I can't fit my hands ANYWHERE to fix stuff.
haha I know exactly what you mean. theres a kid at my school with 3 15's shoved in his trunk, and his wiring is the biggest taco job ive ever seen
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Nice work and props to you for taking your time and learning what to do before spending your money. That way you get the satisfaction of knowing you got it right first time.
Thanks man! yeah after having so many problems with my first setup, I really wanted to do it right. I saved my money, bought nice equipment, and installed it right. Tried not to cut any vital corners. In the Past month, I even bought all new ring terminals, took the old crimped ones off, and soldered new ones on to all my power/grounds
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I'm liking the install man. Good work.
Your car brings back some memories too haha, my grandad used to drive a '99 LeSabre that looked really similar to yours.
Thanks a lot! haha my grandma bought it new in 96 so i basically grew up with this car. doesnt really suit me for what I need a vehicle for, but for what it is, I love it
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I like the q's, and idk about that amp..doesn't look like it could do anywhere close to 3k...and the car might honestly be the ugliest car ever produced..but if it was free..
The amp is a MMATS 3000.1 check em out. they make really great stuff. I asked guys on the ecoustics forum and on CA.com and they reccomended this amp over a sundown 3k. I love it. Its hardly bigger than my JL 1000.1 on my first setup, it hardly heats up at all, and its really efficient.
Hey now dont hate on the buick. that things nice inside and drives smoother than just about anything else. its even kinda quick! could use a paint job and window tint though.
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haha yeah the stuff is like 16 bucks for a 25 foot roll. just needed anything to absorb some of that trunk rattle.
lol you mean like when someone tries to shove a few 18's in a civic?
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thanks a lot! haha i actually looked into gettin some second skin after seeing it in one of steve's videos but then i saw the price. Money doesnt exactly grow on trees when youre 17.
My buddy has a ranger completely covered in damplifier though and it really is good stuff
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finally got my system functional and decided to play around with it some
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whaaaaat?!! haha thats insane! im impressed just by the woofer flex off 25 watts!
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all the subs you mentioned are great sounding subs, i guess its just really all personal preference and price
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Thanks man! haha i had my gramma in the car one day and i had some jeezy playin. she cant hear a damn thing but she could feel the bass and goes "Will is that thunder or is the car about to explode?"
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Fi is a great company. IMO theyre the best for the price. Ive got 2 12" Q's in a 5ft^3 box tuned to 30hz and it sounds amazing. at full tilt it looks like my trunk lid is about to fly off haha. But theyre super clean and pretty damn loud for sure. Ive also heard a single 15 in a box tuned to 32hz and that was pretty damn loud too. Ive never heard the BL's but I highly recommend the Q's
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alright thanks man! i dont really have a competition car, but id love to check out some real competition vehicles and maybe see what my own car puts up on termlab. from what ive gathered, hampton roads is pretty barren when it comes to car audio
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I love Fi Q's man. i bet that sounds great. how did you make those ports?
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I live in virginia beach, VA and I hear so much about competitions on the web, but Ive never heard of any around here. I think there was one back on like 08, but i havent heard word of any in this area since then
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Back when the subs were only about a week old, I clipped a curb and the box slid back, hitting the amp rack. so ive had a hold in one of my dustcaps for a while now. Does anyone know If I can just order a new dustcap from Fi? and whats involved in replacing it?
This is how I had them when it broke
And you can see in this picture I have the dustcap taped up
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Got the passenger door finished
Haha i think my rearview had enough
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FInished the first door
Put the amp in a better spot and got my battery hooked up
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Got everything I needed to know about ported boxes, and I decided to build it 5ft^3, tuned to 30hz
This jigsaw is at least 50 years old, and works better than any new jigsaw Ive ever used
My wires werent really long enough to put the amp anywhere, so you can see the back of the board the amps on just chillin to the left of the box. I stuffed a towel in between them so they wouldnt bang on eachother
Heres a video of the new box
T shirt trick! haha
Got some Polk MM5251 components
Pulled the box out and its time to put in some sound deadener. (Its actually quick roof but it works better than dynamat)
Mounted my amp to the front of the box cuz i didnt really now what to do with it (this was only temporary)
Started rippin shit up to put my 4 channel in finally
Got a Deka 8A31 as some extra reinforcement to my poor stock electrical
Got all the wires run for the 4 channel
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This is my 1996 Buick Lesabre. It was free from my gramma when she stopped driving. Ive been into car audio since i was just a little kid so after being ripped off by the local car audio shop for my first system, I decided to do it all myself. Its not near as fancy as most of the builds ive seen on here, but Its my first, and I was pretty much learning as I went.
This was my first system installed by Go-Ho Audio. wasnt a bad system at all, they just tricked my noob self into thinking i was getting a lot more than i really was. 2 Mobile Spec 10's, TMA T2-1000.1. they originally wired me with 8 gauge and it burnt up.
This system sounded pretty good for just a couple 10's though
Few problems with that system though: they originally gave me 8 gauge wire, prefab box tuned way too high and too small for the subs, amp mounted on the box, box wasnt a tight enough fit, so it liked to slide around pulling all the carpet with it and sometimes ripping the wires right out of the amp.
Well I was sick of dealing with the morons at the audio shop, so I decided to put a new system in and do It all myself. I found the car audio forum on ecoustics.com, and i got a lot of insight and help from the guys on there. They helped me choose my subs, amp, and even helped me to understand all the dynamics of a ported box. So after a good 6 months of learning about car audio, I decided to get to work.
First to come in was the amp. MMATS 3000.1
And then the subs. 2 fully loaded Fi Q 12's
I didnt yet fully understand everything about ported boxes, so i decided to start with just a basic sealed box, being that it was my first time building one too. 2ft^3 after displacement
Test fitting
Got everything wired up
My only electrical upgrade was my big 3 all 1/0
Found a really good deal on a JL G4500, so i picked that up knowing id use it later
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Deciding between JL and RE?
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
2 fully loaded q's are more like 1500rms a piece. and theyd be quite a bit more expensive. it cost me about 630 shipped to va so my guess is that it would be a bit more to australia